June 12, 2009 - Issue 175
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: The Blossoming Dining Scene in Chicago
2. Featured Star Chef: Grant Achatz of Alinea-Chicago, IL
3. This Summer, Pickle to Your Heart's Content
4. Technique: Diamond Chai Bar from Pastry Chef Jimmy MacMillan of Avenues-Chicago, IL
5. Interview with Chef Curtis Duffy of Avenues-Chicago, IL
6. Recession Buster Vol. 3: Bargain Booze and BLT's at a Hip Chicago Wine Bar
7. Interview with Pastry Chef Jimmy MacMillan of Avenues-Chicago, IL
8. Ask the Sommelier: Brian Duncan, Bin 36-Chicago, IL
9. Cool Careers: Chef to the Ambassador of New Zealand
10. Join Over 40 Restaurants at the Best of the Bay Showcase in San Francisco
11. Photo Galleries: Recent Tastings in Chicago
12. Featured Cookbook: The Joy of Pickling
13. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs JobFinder
14. Featured Chef to Know: Pastry Chef Craig Harzewski of Naha-Chicago, IL
15. Recipe for Young Thai Coconut Soup from Chef Bill Kim of Urban Belly-Chicago, IL

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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Wisconsin Cheese - Artisans Find Inspiration in Wisconsin

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1. Letter from the Editor: The Blossoming Dining Scene in Chicago
From a long overdue feature on the genius behind Alinea to interviews and a pastry technique collected from our last trip there, here's a look at the blossoming Chicago dining scene.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol43/
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2. Featured Star Chef: Grant Achatz of Alinea-Chicago, IL
One of the most talented chefs of his generation, Grant Achatz is redefining modern cuisine at Alinea in Chicago. Here's the comprehensive interview on the watershed moments of his career, kitchen structure, inspiration, and new projects, plus 3 recipes for Kobe beef, sweet potatoes, and a raspberry transparency.
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/grant-achatz/html/index.shtml
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3. This Summer, Pickle to Your Heart's Content
We've been seeing a lot of pickling in our tastings around the country, from wine bars to upscale casual and fine-dining restaurants. It's a great way to preserve your summer produce at its freshest, and to add sweet and sour flavors to proteins. Here are five recipe ideas for pickled blueberries, shallots, shiitakes, sunchokes, and garlic from chefs in Chicago, San Diego, New York, and Yountville.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/pickling/html/index.shtml
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4. Technique: Diamond Chai Bar from Pastry Chef Jimmy MacMillan of Avenues-Chicago, IL
At Avenues, one of the most popular desserts is the Flavors of Chai: A diamond-shaped bar composed of vanilla chai gelato filled with a square of chocolate chai. The geometric design stumps diners each time they receive the dish. Learn the technique and get the recipe for this impressive dessert.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/jimmy-macmillan/html/index.shtml
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5. Interview with Chef Curtis Duffy of Avenues-Chicago, IL
Having worked at Charlie Trotter's, Alinea, and Trio, Curtis Duffy has now taken over the kitchen at Graham Elliott Bowles' Avenues, where he's creating refined cuisine with a high sense of aesthetic. Here's how he got his start in fine-dining, plus tips for young chefs starting out.
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/curtis-duffy/html/index.shtml
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6. Recession Buster Vol. 3: Bargain Booze and BLT's at a Hip Chicago Wine Bar
Recession begets innovation, and here's a new one to add to the list of inspired coping mechanisms: sleek Chicago wine bar Juicy Wine Co.'s Tuesday night half-priced Pinot Noir and BLT deal.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/recession_buster/volume_03/index.shtml
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7. Interview with Pastry Chef Jimmy MacMillan of Avenues-Chicago, IL
Musician turned pastry chef Jimmy MacMillan has gained notoriety for his striking desserts both look and taste-wise. At Avenues, he combines molecular gastronomy and classic pastry technique, to create vibrant pastries. Read the interview to find out how he applies his knowledge of the fine arts to dessert, and get the recipe for an innovative dessert that combines chocolate and Barolo wine.
http://starchefs.com/chefs/pastry/JMacMillan/html/index.shtml
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8. Ask the Sommelier: Brian Duncan, Bin 36-Chicago, IL
James Beard Nominee Brian Duncan of Chicago's Bin 36 is a star sommelier who has developed his own line of wines. Read the complete interview to find out what makes him tick, plus five wine tips that will help make you a better sommelier.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/ask_Sommelier/Brian-Duncan/index.shtml
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9. Cool Careers: Chef to the Ambassador of New Zealand
An A-List New Zealand chef, Nathan Bates moved across the globe to take a prime position cooking for Ambassador Roy Ferguson at the New Zealand Embassy in Washington DC. Here's where this globetrotting chef has cooked, what he's planning next, and his advice on how to succeed in the culinary world.
http://www.starchefs.com/community/cool-careers/nathan-bates/index.shtml
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10. Join Over 40 Restaurants at the Best of the Bay Showcase in San Francisco
Each year, San Francisco magazine celebrates the city's exemplary offerings in its July "Best of" issue, in which readers and Bay Area residents weigh in on what makes the Bay Area the best place to live work, and play. The festivities showcase premier restaurant tastings of specialty hors d'oeuvres from over 40 restaurants.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/best-of-the-bay-area/2009/html/index.shtml
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11. Photo Galleries: Recent Tastings in Chicago
Photos from recent tastings at Chicago's Avenues, Graham Elliott Bowles, Bin 36, Perennial, Cafe des Architects, Urban Belly, and the Chefs to Know Afterparty at The Gage.
http://www.starchefs.com/Gallery/Index.shtml
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12. Featured Cookbook: The Joy of Pickling
By Linda Ziedrich
(2009, The Harvard Common Press) $18.95

The revised edition of this guide to making pickles is loaded with new recipes, tips, and techniques. A detailed introductory chapter highlights the various methods of pickling (including Japanese miso and rice bean pickling), and gives a rundown of the different salts, vinegars, aromatics, and firming agents to choose from. The Joy of Pickling also includes recipes for baby corn to eggplant or lemon, and contains an entire chapter dedicated to cabbage pickles, such as kimchi and sauerkraut. The Joy of Pickling also includes a section on hot and sweet chutneys and a final chapter focused on pickled meats, fish, and eggs.
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The Italian Culinary Academy
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13. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs JobFinder
Executive Chef
Committed to Creativity and Growth
Custom House
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253780&positionid=

Sous Chef-one sixty blue
Fun, Passionate Sous Chef Needed
Cornerstone Mgmt. & Consulting Inc
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253941&positionid=

Line Cook
Seeking Stellar Line Cook
Trump Int'l Hotel & Tower Chicago
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254420&positionid=

Executive Chef
Experienced Chef to Manage Hospital Food Production
New Jersey
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254560&positionid=

Sous Chef
Work in the Heart of Wine Country
Mayacama Golf Club
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254460&positionid=

Executive Chef
Leading Boutique Hospitality company seeks local Executive Chef
Kimpton Restaurants & Hotels
Pennsylvania
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254520&positionid=

Open Call for Sous Chef and Line Cooks
New Pan-Latin Restaurant Opening
Agua Dulce Restaurant
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254500&positionid=

Pantry Worker - Room Service
Great Job at New Luxury Hotel
CityCenter Las Vegas
Nevada
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254392&positionid=

Executive Chef/Kitchen Manager
High Profile Green Restaurant seeks Strong Kitchen Leader
Washington DC
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254360&positionid=

Managers
Seeking experienced GMs for exciting opportunity
Geisha Corp
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254180&positionid=

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    14. Featured Chef to Know: Pastry Chef Craig Harzewski of Naha-Chicago, IL
    Excerpt taken from the 2nd edition of the StarChefs.com Chefs to Know: A Guide To Chefs for Chefs available for $24.95 through
    http://www.starchefs.com/shopping/

    Craig Harzewski
    Pastry Chef
    Naha
    500 North Clark Street Chicago, IL 60610
    Phone: (312) 321-6242

    Restaurant Facts
    Seats: 105 Weeknight Covers: 100 Weekend Covers: 200 Check
    Average (with Wine): $82 Tasting Menu: Yes Kitchen Staff: 2

    Chef Facts
    Cuisine: Mediterranean Born: 1974 Began Career: 1987
    Work History: New York, NY: Payard, Judson Grill, Le Cirque, Country, San Domenico
    Mentor: Francois Payard" he taught me everything. Beyond just French pastry, he taught me how to challenge myself professionally and make myself better.
    Languages Spoken: Kitchen Spanish, French, Italian
    Notable Dishes: Black Mission Fig Tart of Soft Polenta and Brown Butter with Pistachio Ice Cream and Red Wine Syrup

    Fast Facts
    Restaurant Recs: The Grafton for the burger.
    Kitchen Tools: Small offset spatula, my one chef knife that I keep razor sharp (which is unusual for pastry chefs), and the top of the oven. It holds everything at the right heat.
    Interview Question: I have to see them in action, so I have them stage. It's not necessarily about what they know but how they move and what attitude and motivation they have. If they come with that, I will teach them anything.
    Flavor Combos: I like pretty classic and traditional combinations like milk chocolate with hazelnut, and orange and pistachio with cherry.
    Favorite Cookbooks: Professional Pastry Chef by Bo Friberg, On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee, and the Ducasse Le Grand Livre line.
    Chef to Cook for You: Pastry: Pierre Herme; Savory: Philippe Bertineau: he just makes great food.
    Culinary Travel: I can't narrow it down, there are too many places.
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    Jade Range15. Recipe for Young Thai Coconut Soup from Chef Bill Kim of Urban Belly-Chicago, IL
    Adapted by StarChefs.com
    Yield: 6 Servings

    INGREDIENTS:
    6 41-50 shrimp, tail off, peeled and de-veined
    Olive oil
    1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
    1 teaspoon fennel seed
    1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed
    1/2 lemon
    1 small carrot, peeled
    2 pieces garlic, thinly sliced
    1 jalapeno, sliced
    1 Kaffir lime leaf
    1 knuckle galangal, peeled
    Zest of 1 lime
    1 lime, diced

    To Assemble and Serve:
    Pea tendrils
    3 ounces young Thai coconut meat, cleaned and thinly sliced

    METHOD:
    Place shrimp into a saucepot and cover with olive oil. Add the crushed red pepper, fennel, mustard seed, garlic, carrot and lemon. On low heat, slowly cook the shrimp while constantly stirring. Once cooked, remove the shrimp and cool in an ice bath. Slice the shrimp in half lengthwise. Add sliced jalapeno, Kaffir lime leaf, and galangal. Bring soup to a simmer.

    To Assemble and Serve:
    In a warm bowl, add pea tendrils, 1/2 ounce coconut meat, shrimp, lime zest and lime dice. Strain the soup over the mixture.
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    Recipes don't have to be complicated to be delicious. Check out QuickMeals and learn celebrity chefs' secrets for preparing fast and easy weeknight recipes.

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    StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders


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