December 21, 2006 - Issue 116
The Dishrag
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IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: In Pursuit of the Chef Dream in Chicago
2. A Culinary Lover's Guide to Chicago
3. Cookbook Wish List 2006
4. New Years Eve Dinner with Sven Meade of Nob Hill
5. New Years Breakfast, in Celebration of the Egg
6. On the Plate
7. Top Pairs
8. Technique: Laminated Skate with Chef Andrew Zimmerman
9. Ask the Sommelier with Claire Paparazzo of Blue Hill in New York
10. Top 10 Jobs on StarChefs JobFinder
11. Recipe for Crudo of Black Grouper with Raw Farm Cranberries
12. Coming Soon on StarChefs.com!

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

"I love the deep flavor of Cervena venison and its consistent high quality. Its sense of rustic elegance really works well in both my restaurants."
- Chef Scott Conant of L'Impero and Alto--New York. Meet the deer farmers from New Zealand who consistently live up to high expectations at www.cervena.com.

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1. Letter from the Editor: In Pursuit of the Chef Dream in Chicago
Restaurant economics make Chicago a major dining city particularly conducive to pursuing the "chef dream," i.e. a small chef-driven restaurant that is a true extension of the chef within.
http://starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol9/index.shtml

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2. A Culinary Lover's Guide to Chicago
Chicago has blossomed into a veritable culinary destination, with a strong chef community and a range of chef-driven restaurants, from 4-star to neighborhood hole-in-the-wall. What's more, it's possibly the only large culinary city in the country where opening a restaurant is still affordable.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/travel/chicago/html/index.shtml

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3. Cookbook Wish List 2006
Tom Aikens, Marcus Sammuelson, Michel Richard and more; if we were going to buy 12 cookbooks this year, these would be the ones we would choose, and we're confident you'll like them as much as we do.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/cookbooks/top_10/2006/html/index.shtml

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4. New Years Eve Dinner with Sven Meade of Nob Hill
Sven Mede of Nob Hill in Las Vegas has created a Champagne-paired tasting menu to bring in the New Year! The Champagnes, like the courses, gradually crescendo to a finale with refreshing Meyer lemon ice cream sandwiched between delicate chocolate shortbread. Pick and choose dishes with their perfectly-suited bubbly to create your own menu, or go all out with a decadent 9-course tasting menu!
http://www.starchefs.com/features/new_years_dinner/2007/html/index.shtml

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5. New Years Breakfast, in Celebration of the Egg
"Probably one of the most private things in the world is an egg until it is broken."
- MFK Fisher
Soft boiled, coddled or raw, a clever series of slight manipulations, ostentatious fortifications, and, yes, well-meaning intrusions transform these once coy yolks and whites into flamboyant declarations of a new year to come.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/new_years_breakfast/2007/html/index.shtml

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6. On the Plate
At Joel in Atlanta, Chef Joel Antunes' complex flavors and textures are housed in plateware that, like his cuisine, is an elegant update of familiar tradition.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/plating/vol5/index.shtml

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7. Top Pairs
Sommelier Vajra Stratigos of Ecco in Atlanta describes his food and wine philosophy as finding the wine that works within the space. His interest in the environment of a meal through in a series of well-thought out pairings that create a wine experience that amplifies the food as well as the design of the space.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/top_pairs/2006_12_atl/index.shtml

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8. Technique: Laminated Skate with Chef Andrew Zimmerman
At del Toro in Chicago, Chef Andrew Zimmerman layers and sous vides skate wing to create a dense filet texturally reminiscent of halibut, but distinctly skate in flavor. The technique utilizes the natural gelatin of the fish and maximizes the moisture, flavor and texture.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/AZimmerman/index.shtml

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9. Ask the Sommelier with Claire Paparazzo of Blue Hill in New York
Young actors who come to New York looking for stardom may end up turning to the bottle instead, but for a few, "the bottle" isn't a drinking problem, it's a career in wine. Once an aspiring actor, Sommelier Claire Paparazzo is now a seasoned sommelier, having spent time at Vong, Stone Barnes and currently Blue Hill in Greenwich Village.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/ask_Sommelier/CPaparazzo/index.shtml

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10. Top 10 Jobs on StarChefs JobFinder
Line Cook
Awesome Opportunity for the Right Candidate at Jean-Georges Perry Street
Perry Street
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216261&positionid=

Executive Sous Chef
Seeking an Educated Palate
Charlie Palmer Steak
Washington, DC
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216340&positionid

Chef
Cantonese Restaurant Seeks Chef
Harrah's Lake Tahoe
Colorado
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216461&positionid=

Garde Manager Chef
How Sweet it Is!
Hershey Entertainment and Resorts
Pennsylvania
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216225&positionid=

Sous Chef
South City Kitchen Opportunity
Fifth Group Restaurants
Georgia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216420&positionid=

Pastry Chef
Jamie Mammano Seeks Pastry Pro in the South End
Mistral
Massachusetts
http://wwww.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216460&positionid=

Maitre d' / Captain
Excellent, Extensive Benefits!
Domaine Chandon
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214583&positionid=

Sushi Chef
Innovative West Village Japanese Restaurant Seeks Talented Sushi Chef
Sumile
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216042&positionid=

BOH Manager
Expanding Sushi Restaurant Seeks Management
Itsu
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216480&positionid=

Chef de Cuisine
Todd English opens in Mississippi
Olives
Mississippi
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=216321&positionid

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    11. Recipe for Crudo of Black Grouper with Raw Farm Cranberries
    by Chef Drew Belline of Floataway Café - Atlanta, GA
    Adapted by StarChefs.com

    Yield: 2 servings

    Ingredients:
    10 ounces cranberries (preferably Stevenson Cranberries from Raw Farms)
    2 sprigs mint
    1 ounce simple syrup
    Fleur de Sel
    2 ounces of the freshest black grouper (any mild flavored white fleshed fish will work)
    Good finishing olive oil
    Cheesecloth

    Method:
    Pulse all but three cranberries in a blender with mint, simple syrup, and a large pinch of Fleur de Sel. Hang pressed cranberries in the cheesecloth over a bowl for 12 hours in a cool place. Adjust seasoning of cranberry water to taste and refrigerate, reserving drained puree for another use.
    To serve, slice grouper across the grain into thin pieces and arrange on a chilled plate. Season with fleur de sel and dress with the cranberry water and olive oil. Garnish with thin cross-section slices of the raw cranberries and tender young mint leaves.

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    12. Coming Soon on StarChefs.com!
    The Year's Culinary Trends, A Culinary Lover's Guide to Andalucia, the Annual Salary Survey Results and more!

    StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com
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    StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders