November 15, 2006 - Issue 113
The Dishrag
>> newsletter <<

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: The Holiday Revenue Myth
2. Holiday Baking Featuring Elizabeth Belkind, Zoe Behrens, Heather Chittum and More
3. Turkey Tips 2006
4. The Interviews, Bios and Recipes of the 2006 Washington DC Rising Stars
5. Technique: Preparing Barnacles with Chef Ken Oringer
6. Technique: Cooking in Cedar Paper with Chef Josh Dechellis
7. Wine: Ask the Sommelier with Julee Resendez
8. Wine: Carmignano Emerges from Chianti's Shadow
9. Top 10 Jobs on StarChefs.com
10. Top 5 Best-Selling Cookbooks
11. Recipe for Roasted Sirloin of Beef, Root Vegetables and Caramelized Shallot-Red Wine Jus
12. Coming Soon on StarChefs.com

If you like food. A lot. Visit http://www.starchefs.com
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I love the deep flavor of Cervena venison and its consistent high quality. Its sense of rustic elegance really works well in both my restaurants."
- Chef Scott Conant, L'Impero and Alto, NYC. Click here to meet deer farmers from New Zealand who consistently live up to high expectations.
(www.cervena.com)

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1. LETTER FROM THE EDITOR: THE HOLIDAY REVENUE MYTH
Holiday season is the most wonderful time of the year - unless you're a chef planning set menus, struggling through long, often overbooked services, and missing your own family dinners. Find out how chefs across the country are coping with these challenges, and whether or not the holidays are profitable for restaurants.
http://starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol7/index.shtml

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2. HOLIDAY BAKING FEATURING ELIZABETH BELKIND, ZOE BEHRENS, HEATHER CHITTUM AND MORE
The classics (pumpkin, chocolate, pears, marshmallows, coffee & doughnuts) are updated by pastry chefs Elizabeth Belkind, Heather Chittum, Zoe Behrens, Pradeep Dharmawardane and others. For chefs who want to include a dessert special for the inevitable lactose-intolerant guest or visiting family member, we've included a series of dairy-free desserts from our holiday archives.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/holiday_baking/2006/html/index.shtml

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3. TURKEY TIPS 2006
Leave your high heat hurried lives behind, Thanksgiving's here and the name of the game is buy it fresh, brine it yesterday and roast it slow. This year we've got great Thanksgiving tips to get your turkey tasting better and your restaurant running smoother, and recipes that make the best of the gobbling bird, not to mention some of his close relatives.
http://www.starchefs.com/thanksgiving/2006/html/index.shtml

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4. THE INTERVIEWS, BIOS AND RECIPES OF THE 2006 WASHINGTON DC RISING STARS
Which of the DC Rising Stars wants to open a butcher shop? What was the first experimental piece of equipment that Jose Andres gave to Katsuya Fukushima? What is Cathal Armstrong's favorite cookbook? How does Heather Chittum craft her elegant take on S'Mores? This and more from our talented Washington DC Rising Stars.
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2006/dc/html/index.shtml

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5. TECHNIQUE: PREPARING BARNACLES WITH CHEF KEN ORINGER
While barnacles remain largely uneaten and undesired in American cooking, they've been used for centuries in Spain's Basque Country and Galicia. There, Goose Neck barnacles, or percebes, are regarded as a delicacy and eaten with uninhibited gusto.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/KOringer/index.shtml

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6. TECHNIQUE: COOKING IN CEDAR PAPER WITH CHEF JOSH DECHELLIS
While cedar planks are popular in American cooking, in Japan the planks are shaved into ultra-thin sheets, dried in the sun, and then cut into card-size portions. The transparent and pliable cedar paper is then soaked and wrapped around a hot fish or meat to gently impart its flavor, or burnt in a traditional smoking technique beneath a meat or fish.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/JDeChellis/index.shtml

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7. WINE: ASK THE SOMMELIER WITH JULEE RESENDEZ
Julee Resendez spent her childhood summers helping out in her grandparents' vineyards, where she learned about grapes before even thinking about wine. She has recently redesigned the wine programs at Aquavit, Colors and The Harrison. Ask her your wine questions today!
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/ask_Sommelier/JResendez/index.shtml

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8. WINE: CARMIGNANO EMERGES FROM CHIANTI'S SHADOW
The words "Tuscany" and "Cabernet" usually bring to mind a bundle of high-priced wines that emerged in the 1970s: the Super-Tuscans. However, one small region of Tuscany already had a tradition of growing Cabernet and was reemerging from under the Chianti umbrella at the same time: Carmignano.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/features/html/carmignano/html/index.shtml

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9. TOP 10 JOBS ON STARCHEFS.COM
Sous Chef
Blue Ridge Grill Seeks Motivated Sous Chef
Liberty House Corporation
Georgia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215401&positionid=

Pastry Line Cook
Legendary New York Restaurant - Extraordinary Opportunity
Le Cirque
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215400&positionid=

Sous Chef
Great Sustainable Cuisine - and a Ski Pass!
Lulu Wilson
Colorado
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215393&positionid=

Sous Chef
Park Slope Café Seeks Sous Chef
2nd Street Cafe
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215206&positionid=

Assistant F & B Manager
Progressive Food and Beverage Manager
Woodfire Grill
Georgia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215280&positionid=

Executive Chef
High-Level Position for Experienced Candidate
Table Mountain Casino
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215345&positionid=

Sous Chef
Join a Talented Team in a Beautiful Environment
Ojai Valley Inn and Spa
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215344&positionid=

Executive Chef
Lotus and Double Seven do Upscale Mexican
3Sixty Hospitality
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215240&positionid=

Executive Chef
Upscale Restaurant Venture Seeks Talented Leadership
The Sheraton Delfina Hotel
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215205&positionid=

Assistant Manager
Come Down to the Lower East Side
'inoteca
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=215342&positionid

 
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10. TOP 5 BEST-SELLING COOKBOOKS
StarChefs.com has partnered with Jessica's Biscuit® eCookbooks to bring you the greatest selection of cookbooks at a steep discount, including these best sellers. As always, enjoy free shipping on purchases of $25 or more!

1. The Bon Appetit Cookbook
By Barbara Fairchild
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35379&searchvalues=&searchlogic=advsearch

2. Bite Size: Elegant Recipes for Entertaining
By Francois Payard
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=286386562&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35514&searchvalues=&searchlogic=advsearch

3. The Joy of Cooking: 75th Anniversary Edition
by Irma Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35979&searchvalues=&searchlogic=advsearch

4. Happy in the Kitchen: The Craft of Cooking, the Art of Eating
By Michel Richard
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35675

5. Breakfast, Lunch and Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery
By Rose Carrarini
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=286386562&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_36025&searchvalues=&searchlogic=advsearch

 
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11. RECIPE FOR ROASTED SIRLOIN OF BEEF, ROOT VEGETABLES AND CARAMELIZED SHALLOT-RED WINE JUS
Chef Brendan Cox of Circle Bistro - Washington, DC
Adapted by StarChefs.com

Yield: 4 Servings
Ingredients:
2 purple top turnips with greens
2 pieces rutabaga
2 pieces kohlrabi
6 pieces radish
2 carrots
1 head garlic, cut in ˝ across
4 sprigs rosemary
2 red onions, peeled, quartered
4 ounces canola oil
4 ounces sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper
4 10-ounce sirloin steaks
12 shallots, sliced
3 cups red wine
Sel gris

Method:
Preheat oven to 325:F. Peel the turnips, rutabaga and kohlrabi and into 8 wedges. Quarter the radishes and cut the carrots into obliques.* Toss the vegetables, garlic, rosemary, and onions into a bowl and coat with 2 ounces of oil and 2 ounces of sherry vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and roast on a sheet pan until tender and nicely colored (imagine a pile of leaves in the fall: oranges, reds and yellows, all intermingled). After the veggies are cooked, sear the steaks in a cast iron skillet and roast in the oven (still at 325:F)until medium-rare to medium, about 10-12 minutes.** Slowly cook the shallots in a separate pan, deglaze with the remaining vinegar, then cook until golden. Add the wine and reduce by two-thirds. On four plates, mound the vegetables and slice the steak, top with the red wine-shallot sauce, and garnish with fat crystals of sel gris.

*Oblique refers to cutting the carrot on a 45: angle then rotating the carrot 45: over, like a log (not the hands of a clock), cutting again and so forth. It's very pretty, and it will impress the neighbors.
**Check by inserting a thin metal skewer into the meat, if it comes away warm to just getting hot the steaks are ready.

Wine Pairing: 2004 Kermit Lynch Cotes du Rhone, a big juicy Syrah-based wine with ample tannins to stand up to the root vegetables and the beef.

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12. COMING SOON ON STARCHEFS.COM
A Culinary Lover's Guide to Chicago, 2006: A Culinary Review, Holiday Dinner with Chef Jeffrey Buben, Holiday Entertaining with Guy Savoy, and more!

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Recipes don't have to be complicated to be delicious. Check out QuickMeals and learn celebrity chefs' secrets for preparing fast and easy weeknight recipes.

Click here to register for ONE-WEEK FREE TRIAL of QuickMeals:
http://www.starchefs.com/recipes/quick_meals/offer.php

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StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders