October 31, 2006 - Issue 112
The Dishrag
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IN THIS ISSUE
1. The 2006 Washington DC Rising Stars Revue: Introducing the Honorees!
2. Letter from the Editor: Does Michelin Matter in New York?
3. Star Cookbook: Susur, A Culinary Life
4. Trends: Flavored Salt, More than Just a Garnish
5. Autumn Farm Fresh Market Recipes
6. Technique: Making Isomalt Garnishes with Albert Adria
7. Wine: In the Spirit of the Season, A Blind Tasting Party
8. Missed the 2006 StarChefs.com International Chefs Congress? Get the Book!
9. Top 10 Jobs on StarChefs JobFinder
10. Top 5 Best-Selling Cookbooks
11. Recipe for Cervena Venison with Quince Sauce by Chef Todd Gray of Equinox - Washington DC
12. Coming Soon on StarChefs.com: Turkey Tips, Chicago and Holiday Baking

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com
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1. The 2006 Washington DC Rising Stars Revue: Introducing the Honorees!
Meet the 2006 Washington DC Rising Stars. The list includes Barton Seaver of Café Saint Ex, Tony Conte of The Oval Room, Cathal Armstrong of Restaurant Eve, Katsuya Fukushima of Café Atlantico, Eric Ziebold of CityZen, Bart Vandaele of Belga Café, Noriaki Yasutake of Perry's, RJ Cooper of Vidalia, Tony Chittum of Notti Bianche, Pastry Chef Heather Chittum of Dish, Pastry Chef Hichem Lahreche of Kinkead's, and Pastry Chef Tom Wellings of Maestro.
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2006/dc/html/index.shtml

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2. Letter from the Editor: Does Michelin Matter in New York?
Last week Michelin released its 2007 guide to New York City's restaurants and hotels. The Letter from Editor Antoinette Bruno examines the challenges to the position of Michelin in New York.
http://starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol6/index.shtml

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3. Star Cookbook: Susur, A Culinary Life
For Susur Lee, who left his native Hong Kong in 1980, the history and rigidity of Chinese kitchen culture became a launching pad into culinary freedom and experimentation. His joint cookbook and biography give insight into the life and cuisine of this culinary master.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/cookbooks/star_cookbooks/html/susur.shtml

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4. Trends: Flavored Salt, More than Just a Garnish
Inspired by how the subtle flavors of a good salt can add layers of taste and texture to a dish, chefs are manipulating salt's flavor to turn it into a multi-functioning finish. By infusing, mixing, and smoking their salts in-house, chefs are creating flavored salts to go beyond the rims of cocktail glasses and into their composed, sweet and savory dishes.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/trends/flavoured_salt/index.shtml

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5. Autumn Farm Fresh Market Recipes
On menus across the country, chefs are ousting the last of the summer favorites in favor of more robust fall crops: apples, turnips, eggplant and hardier greens, to name a few. Chefs Scott Boswell, Caitlin Kelly and Michael Harr highlight the seasons' best in new Farm Fresh Market Recipes.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/farm_fresh/autumn/2006/html/index.shtml

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6. Technique: Making Isomalt Garnishes with Albert Adria
The advantages of cooking with isomalt have propelled it from industrial production into progressive pastry and savory kitchens. Chef Albert Adria of el Bulli uses isomalt to make a sugar casing in the shape of a bird\'s head that is filled with black sesame praline. http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/AAdria/index.shtml

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7. Wine: In the Spirit of the Season, A Blind Tasting Party
Blind-tasting parties are a wine geek's paradise, where the wine-savvy match their taste buds and their powers of deduction to determine the identity of a wine. Blind tasting is a mind game as much as a question of palate, and it takes some detective work to put together what your impressions might mean. http://www.starchefs.com/wine/features/html/blind_tasting/html/index.shtml

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8. Missed the 2006 StarChefs.com International Chefs Congress? Get the Book!
If you missed the Congress, you can still own the program book! This inaugural book features recipes, techniques and "fast facts" from the 45 presenting chefs, including Albert Adria, Jose Andres, and Wylie Dufresne, as well as beautiful full-color photographs of the dishes and the chefs. It's an essential reference for chefs and culinary insider! View select pages from the book and place your order on-line.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/icc/2006/book.shtml

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9. Top 10 Jobs on StarChefs JobFinder
Line Cooks
Seeking Cooks who are Passionate and Excited!
Aigre Doux
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214761&positionid=

Junior Sous Chef
Upper Westside Hotspot with Market Driven Menu
Pair of 8's
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214105&positionid=

Executive Chef
Miami-Based Group is Expanding to New York
Big Time Restaurant Group
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214543&positionid=

Sous Chef
125' Yacht Seeks Talented Chef
SunQuest Cruises
Florida
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214603&positionid=

Working Chef and Kitchen Manager
New Concept Seeks Chef Driven by Fresh Flavors
Kidfresh
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214100&positionid=

Sous Chef
Solid References and Experience? STK needs you!
ONE Little West 12
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214660&positionid=

Sous Chef
Shine Under Pressure!
Avalon
Kentucky
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214740&positionid=

Chef de Cuisine
Seeking Energetic and Creative Chef
Icon at the W Court
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214460&positionid=

Executive Chef
Mason Street Grill Seeks Executive Chef
The Pfister Hotel
Wisconsin
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214820&positionid=

Executive Chef
Chef Experienced with Authentic New England Cuisine
The Fireplace
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=214780&positionid=

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10. Top 5 Best-Selling Cookbooks
StarChefs.com has partnered with Jessica's Biscuit® eCookbooks to bring you the greatest selection of cookbooks at a steep discount, including these best sellers. As always, enjoy free shipping on purchases of $25 or more!

1. The Bon Appetit Cookbook
By Barbara Fairchild
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35379&searchvalues=&searchlogic=advsearch

2. Barefoot Contessa at Home
By Ina Garten
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35801

3. The Joy of Cooking: 75th Anniversary Edition
by Irma Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35979&searchvalues=&searchlogic=advsearch

4. Happy in the Kitchen: The Craft of Cooking, the Art of Eating
By Michel Richard
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35675

5. King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking:
Delicious Recipes Using Nutritious Whole Grains
By King Arthur Flour
http://www.ecookbooks.com/products.html?ref=810415153&affiliateID=87129&sid=42930220061016130338&action=det_35588

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11. Recipe for Cervena Venison with Quince Sauce by Chef Todd Gray of Equinox - Washington DC
Adapted by StarChefs

Yield: 6 servings

Venison:
2 pounds rib rack Cervena venison from New Zealand
2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
1 Tablespoon fresh sage, chopped
1 teaspoon black pepper, crushed
6 ounces extra virgin olive oil

Quince purée:
6 Smyrna quince, peels reserved
4 Tablespoons sugar
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup vegetable stock
kosher salt to taste

Quince sauce:
Peelings from 6 quince
1 cup game glace (available in gourmet markets) or red wine carrot sauce (see recipe below)
1 Tablespoon sugar
4 ounces red wine vinegar

Method:
For the Venison:
Marinate cervena with herbs and olive oil for 2 hours. Heat a 10-inch sauté pan over medium heat, using some of oil from marinade. Sear rack of venison and place in 350:F oven for 25 minutes or until medium rare.

For the Quince Purée: Peel the quince and cut them into large dice. Heat sugar in sauce pot over low heat until a light caramel has formed. Add vinegar and cook out the acidity. Add stock, quince and salt. Cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Purée in a blender until smooth.

For the Quince Sauce:
Heat small sauce casserole and repeat the sugar and vinegar process used in the quince purée recipe. Add peelings and glace. Infuse sauce over low heat for 30 minutes, strain and keep warm.

To Assemble and Serve:
Place a small amount of purée in the center of six serving plates. Top with sliced cervena and spoon a small amount of quince sauce around the meat.

Note: To make red wine carrot sauce, start by boiling 4 large carrots in salted water. Reduce 8 cups of red wine (Burgundy) down to 2 cups. When the carrots are soft, purée them and mix with the wine reduction. Pass through a fine mesh strainer and season to taste with salt and pepper.

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12. Coming Soon on StarChefs.com: Turkey Tips, Chicago and Holiday Baking
Thanksgiving Turkey Tips, A Culinary Guide to Chicago, Holiday Baking, and the Interviews and Recipes of the 2006 Washington DC Rising Stars.

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Recipes don't have to be complicated to be delicious. Check out QuickMeals and learn celebrity chefs' secrets for preparing fast and easy weeknight recipes.

Click here to register for ONE-WEEK FREE TRIAL of QuickMeals:
http://www.starchefs.com/recipes/quick_meals/offer.php

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StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders