by
Tejal Rao
January 2007
What can bring together two seemingly
irreconcilable ingredients to form one perfectly emulsified
body? What turns a cup of ordinary tea into sweet clouds of
perfume? What does it take to suspend dense elements in a
liquid? Fingers point toward the usual gang of hydrocolloids
responsible for these tricks, products that once sounded so
foreign to chefs but have become part of the culinary vernacular
in the past couple of years. While chefs like Wylie Dufresne
of wd-50 suggest contacting the manufacturers directly
(not a bad idea) to source them out, what could be more supportive
than ordering from a fellow chef?
If you’ve worked for the sort of chef who didn’t
like sharing his recipes, or kept his techniques and secret
ingredients to himself for fear of losing his signature style
to a young whippersnapper, Will Goldfarb’s approach
to food will be very refreshing. He’s not into creating
an image of metaphysical Jedi-esque powers and makes no secret
of the sometimes wacky techniques he employs when creating
his desserts. Instead he’s launched Willpowder: the
line of products that Goldfarb manipulates in his dessert
bar, Room 4 Dessert, to form interesting textures
and mouth-feels, stable emulsions, as well as some flavorings
like mild curry powder, tandoori powder that simulates the
flavor of the tandoor, and smoked salt.
For cooks (professional
and home alike) interested in the toys that take the shape
of pale powders and allow for the culinary play-world of warm
gels, foams, and emulsions, Goldfarb offers up his favorites
with clear explanations, recipes and a phone number to call
with questions. Prices range from $4 to $14 for a 2 to 4 ounce-packet—just
the right quantity for a cook who’s not sure his flirtation
with spherification will turn into a long-term relationship
and hesitates committing to 5 pound-bags of calcium chloride
and sodium alginate. For chefs who are serious about stocking
up, the products are also available wholesale. Check out Goldfarb’s
site for details.
Click
on a Willpowder for Ideas
Will Goldfarb of Room 4 Dessert—New York,
NY |
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Tandoori |
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Tapioca
Maltodextrin |
Calcium
Lactate |
Sodium
Citrate |
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