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Pastry Chef Luis Villavelazquez Image
Pastry Chef Luis Villavelazquez
Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
398 Hayes Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 551-1590
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Green Tea Biscuits with Elderflower-Wrapped Kabosu  Lime Parfait, Tobacco Meringue, and Black Pepper-Grapefruit Reduction

Green Tea Biscuits with Elderflower-Wrapped Kabosu Lime Parfait, Tobacco Meringue, and Black Pepper-Grapefruit Reduction
Pastry Chef Luis Villavelazquez of Absinthe Brasserie & Bar – San Francisco, CA
Adapted by
April 2010
Yield: 12 Servings



Tobacco Meringue:
200 grams sugar
75 grams egg whites
250 grams xanthan gum
1 drop tobacco extract

Kabosu Parfait:
180 grams cream
4 eggs
340 grams sugar
170 grams kabosu lime juice
Zest of 1 kabosu lime
170 grams butter
4 sheets gelatin, softened

Elderflower Film:
325 grams water
2 grams elderflowers
4 grams gelatin
1 gram agar agar
40 grams sugar

Green Tea Biscuits:
30 grams cake flour
12 grams matcha green tea powder
60 grams butter, softened
75 grams white chocolate, melted
30 grams pasteurized egg yolks
15 grams honey
1 teaspoon sudachi zest
65 grams egg whites
35 grams sugar

Black Pepper-Grapefruit Reduction:
250 grams grapefruit juice
75 grams sugar
Pinch black pepper


For the Tobacco Meringue:  
Put the sugar in a small sauce pan and mix in enough water to produce a wet sand texture. Heat the sugar to soft ball stage, or 235ºF. When the sugar starts to boil, begin to whip the egg whites on medium speed. Pour the sugar into the whipping whites to create an Italian meringue. While whipping, add in xanthan and tobacco extract. Place in a piping bag with a #808 tip. Pipe onto a Silpat to a size similar to that of a tater-tot, resulting in about 80 to100 pieces. Put the tray of meringues in a still oven with no heat to dry out overnight.

For the Kabosu Parfait:
Whip the cream to soft peaks and reserve. Whisk the eggs and sugar and add in the kabosu juice and zest and transfer to a pot over high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil while whisking constantly. After it has boiled, emulsify in the butter and add in the gelatin sheets. Strain the mixture through a chinois and chill.

When chilled but not yet set, fold in the whipped cream and transfer this mixture into a piping bag. Line 12 2-by-2-inch pastry rings with acetate and place on a flat Silpat-lined sheet pan. Pipe the mousse into the rings and fill to the top. (Note: you don't need to line the bottom of the ring because the mousse should be thick enough to hold.) Put the rings into the freezer to set for a minimum of 2 hours. When frozen, unmold the rings to thaw. Dry uncovered for 24 hours maximum.

For the Elderflower Film:
Line a perfectly flat half-sheet pan with plastic wrap, rubbing away any air bubbles and ridges to be smooth. Heat 250 grams of water over medium heat and add the elderflowers to infuse for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, bloom the gelatin with the remaining water. Sprinkle the agar and sugar into the infused water, whisking constantly. Gently bring this mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 seconds before removing from heat entirely. Whisk in the bloomed gelatin. Strain the mixture and cool very slightly before pouring onto the prepared sheet pan, continuously moving the pan so the liquid sets evenly. Once set, let the film dry for 4 hours. Once dry, lay a piece of parchment over the set film and use a sharpie and ruler to portion out about 12 2-inch-by-6½-inch pieces. Flip the pan over and peel the plastic off the elderflower film and cut out the strips according to the drawn lines.

For the Green Tea Biscuits:  
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Sift the cake flour and matcha. In another bowl, combine the melted butter and chocolate. Stir in the yolks, honey, and sudachi zest. Combine this with the sifted flour mixture. Whip the egg whites, gradually adding the sugar, until they form soft peaks. Fold the sifted flour and white chocolate mixture into the egg whites. Place in a ¼-pan lined with parchment and lightly greased. Bake with a low fan for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool before cutting into 2-by-2-inch squares.

For the Black Pepper-Grapefruit Reduction:
Mix all of the ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. Once the mixture is boiling, lower to a simmer and reduce to 150 grams. Brush down the sides of the pot while simmering to keep any residual sugar from burning. Reserve.
To Assemble and Serve:   
Portion the prepared kabosu mousse on each strip of elderflower film and roll up until the ends of the film meet.
Using a squeeze bottle, draw a line of the grapefruit reduction across a rectangular plate. Put a green tea biscuit in the center of the plate and place the kabosu mousse on the biscuit, seam side down. Lay 8 tobacco meringue pieces in a pile in front of the mousse. Serve.  


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