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what
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FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO STEAMBOAT SPRINGS
by Tejal Rao and Antoinette Bruno
January 2007
Winter sports have played a crucial role in the
cultural development of Steamboat Springs, Colorado for centuries,
beginning simply as transportation through the snow but quickly
developing the small town into a top destination for serious
skiers and snowboarders. While the Yampa River running through
Steamboat makes for kayaking and rafting year-round and the
geo-thermal hot springs are always warm, peak tourist-season
begins with the first snow and ends in the spring. As a result,
Steamboat restaurants face the challenges of seasonal tourism
and must rely on a flux of seasonal cooks to help out in the
busy season.
A large portion of seasonal cooks choose
their work location according to their hobbies. It’s
guaranteed that a team of young part-time or seasonal cooks
traveling to Steamboat for the winter season are avid skiers
or snowboarders looking to hit the slopes every morning before
work. Tourists generally choose to rent cabins or condos rather
than stay at hotels, meaning they have access to a full kitchen.
Those who choose to get lunch on-the-go opt for the ease of
casual lunching at the ski resort’s cafes right on the
slopes. Consequently, a lot of restaurants don’t bother
opening for lunch but do open early for dinner.
To attract employees to the remote mountain
location, the City of Steamboat Springs offers cooks working
at least 20 hours a week and their families free skiing and
skating passes and bus passes; they are also paid overtime
and offered workers compensation. The downside? Seasonal employees
are considered “at-will” employees who can both
resign at any time and be terminated at any time according
to demand and performance. The downside for the chefs is the
possibility of inconsistency in a team that stays only part-time
and then leaves for another kitchen and another set of standards.
For chefs balancing a kitchen of full-time,
part-time and seasonal cooks, scheduling the kitchen is a
constant challenge. Committed first and foremost to their
permanent employees, chefs must also adapt to meet the season’s
flux of tourists. The solution for some restaurants is offering
their full-timers generous vacations in the off-season or
closing the kitchen altogether for a fall break before the
winter rush. Another way to build in a return employee pull
is partnering with a seasonal restaurant in the opposite season,
guaranteeing that the same team will return year after year.
For both the seasonal restaurants and those
open year-round, the fundamental culinary theme has naturally
evolved into large portions of hearty comfort food and starch-centric
dishes to boost carb-craving athletes. But Steamboat also
offers eclectic cafés and restaurants that range from
Modern American and Asian-inspired to greasy breakfast joints
and our favorites in every category from dives to fine dining
follow.
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EAT:
Café Diva
1855 Ski Time Square Drive
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970 871 0508
Daily: 5:30-close
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Asian Duck Confit Tacos
at Café Diva
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There’s
no doubt that Café Diva is the shining culinary
jewel of Steamboat Springs. At her hearty fine dining restaurant
at the base of the slopes Executive Chef Kate Rench exercises
the refined sensibilities of Jean Georges in New
York, where she held a Chef de Partie position for 2 years
before coming to Steamboat. Similarly to Vongerichten, Rench
composes sophisticated and satisfying dishes that boldly draw
inspiration from an international pantry of spices and ingredients.
Dishes: Balsamic, Bacon
and Chestnut Glazed Pheasant with Shiitake-Leek Bread Pudding
and Baby Brussels Sprouts; Nut-Spice Crusted Sea Bass with
Parmesan-Jasmine Rice Cake and Warm Tomato-Vegetable Vinaigrette;
Panettone French Toast with Maple Syrup Crème Anglaise
and Pistachio Gelato
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Cottonwood
Grill
701 Yampa Street
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970 879 2229
Winter hours: daily 5:30-close
Spring hours: Wednesday-Sunday 5:30-close
Summer hours: daily 5:30 close
Fall hours: Wednesday-Sunday 5:30-close
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Banana Cream Pie at Cottonwood
Grill
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Executive Chef Michael Fragola creates an Asian-American
fusion menu where everything from the pesto to the coleslaw
has a twist. Cottonwood is the perfect place to
load up on carbs before skiing, with pretty views of the
Yampa River and gardens.
Dishes: Calamari on a Bed of Wasabi Aioli
and Chilies and Stuffed with Macadamia Cilantro Pesto Served
with Asian Slaw and a Sweet and Sour Sauce; Banana Cream
Pie
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L’Apogée
911 Lincoln Avenue
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970 879 1919
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Lobster Gratin at L’Apogée
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L’Apogée features an Continental
menu with French classics like escargots and raclette, but
the dishes are served Steamboat style, which is to say they're
hearty and unpretentious.
Dishes: Lobster Gratin; Crème Brulée
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Ragner’s
In Rendezvous Saddle at the Ski Area
970 871-5150
December-March, Friday-Sunday
Ragner’s lunches and dinners perfectly suit
its location halfway down the High Noon slopes. Have a mug
of spiced glogg on a fun sleigh ride up to the restaurant
before indulging in Scandinavian lunches and dinners with
dishes like Traditional Norwegian Chowder and Gravlax with
Mustard Dill Sauce.
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La
Montaña
2500 Village Drive
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970 879 5800
Summer Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:30pm-9:30pm
Winter Hours: Monday-Sunday 5:00pm-10:00pm
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Eclectic Salad with Pepitas
at La Montana
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Chef Damon Denfroe runs a bustling Southwestern restaurant
in the Village Center Plaza. Made-to-order tortillas arrive
tender and hot with the customary beef, chicken and pork as
well as local elk.
Dishes: Shrimp Tacos with Sweet Rice and
Beans; Eclectic Salad with Pepitas
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Egg
and I
325 Anglers Drive
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970 871 4633
Daily: 7am-2pm
Breakfast before a hard day on the slopes should be hearty
and filling. At Egg and I, eggs, waffles and pancakes
are available in every imaginable way at reasonable prices.
Dishes: Corned Beef Hash; Sunrise Chile
Rellenos
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Creekside
Café and Grill
131 11th St
Steamboat Spgs, CO 80487
(970) 879-4925
Go to Creekside for the ultimate
breakfast of overstuffed burritos, eggs benedict, or something
more carb-centric for pre-ski fuel. If you’re taking
a break after some skiing, Creekside is the place
for comforting American style snacks like hamburgers and
pasta dishes.
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Antares
57 ½ 8th Street
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970 879 9939
Closed for fall break, reopens December 1st daily, 5:30
pm to close
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Miso-Crusted Chicken
Skewers at Antares
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Chef Paul “Rocky” Lebron showcases his wildly
eclectic culinary style at Antares. His love
for spice and curry comes through in an inspired international
menu and juices are squeezed to order for the best margaritas
in town. But don’t let the spicy food and boozy
drinks give you the wrong idea: Antares is
completely kid-friendly, featuring a great kids menu
and a friendly staff.
Dishes: Miso-Crusted Chicken Skewers
with Pickled Ginger Aioli; One Quarter Shiny Duck
with Ginger Plum Sauce; King Crab with Shiitake Mushrooms,
Shallots and Mirin Butter Sauce
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STAY:
Timberline at Trappeurs
Crossing
2800 Village Drive
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
800 634 9618
Timberline is a small community of Southwestern cottages
two blocks away from the gondola ride to the top of
the mountain. The combination of Alpine and Santa
Fe style come together in a surprisingly sophisticated
and charming way. Each comfortable cottage has a fully
equipped kitchen, whirlpool tub, fireplace, balcony,
washer and dryer as well as a complimentary on-call
car during ski season that shuttles guests to the
gondola or nearby downtown Steamboat. While the resort
town boasts a few big names like Sheraton and Holiday
Inn, renting a home at the base of the slopes offers
the luxuries of a hotel room with an intimacy and
coziness that really fit the Steamboat vibe.
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CHEFS
SAY:
Chef Paul Lebron of Antares likes the burgers
at Slopeslide and Old Towne Pub.
He goes to Mocha Molly for coffee and Celebes
for Indonesian Coffee. The best Italian, according
to Lebron, is at Giovanni’s, and the
best breakfast is at Creekside Café.
Chef Michael Fragola of Cottonwood Grill
likes to eat at Antares and Café
Diva. He loves the Chocolate Soup at The Grand
Hotel, the pasta at Giovanni’s, the
fresh tortillas at La Montaña, and
the coffee at Mocha Molly.
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