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| San Miguel for the Food
Savvy
By Antoinette Bruno
 The
sleepy city of San Miguel, Mexico, is best known in America
as an artists’ enclave and a haven for American expatriates.
What most guidebooks won’t tell you is that San Miguel
de Allende, located in the central Mexican state of Guanajato,
offers a wealth of authentic culinary discoveries. Forget
the homogenized Mexican fare commonly found in the U.S –
tacos, nachos, quesadillas – and think fresh sopas,
hot chiles, and homemade mole. San Miguel provides a variety
of venues and ways in which to experience real Mexican food.
There are fine dining restaurants, casual cafes, traveling
street vendors, bustling marketplaces, and quite a few local
cooking schools. A colorful backdrop of brightly painted,
intricately carved windows and doors, winding paths, cobblestone
courtyards, and lively squares frame San Miguel’s vibrant
culinary and cultural scene. The city’s easygoing pace
of life beckons visitors to stay a while and do as the locals
do; wander, watch, taste, touch, and live life to the fullest.
 The
best way to learn about food in San Miguel is to ask the locals,
who are friendly and welcoming to foreigners. Inquiries into
eating habits and regional staples led to a lesson about different
chiles (Serrano, jalapeno, poblano, habanero, ancho, and chipotle,
just to name a few), a conversation about mole sauce (every
family and household have their own way of preparing it),
and the discovery of queso fresca, a fresh, local cheese with
a taste similar to ricotta and a consistency akin to goat
cheese. Breakfast was another revelation. Morning meals in
San Miguel often consist of steamed tamales and atole, a hot
corn drink.
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| Chef
Ana Lilia Galindo Chávez |
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Residents of San Miguel are proud to show
off their city and their culture. The same is true of the
chefs presiding over the city’s fine dining establishments.
Unlike many tourist destinations, where restaurants pander
to the lowest common denominator, San Miguel’s chefs
are eager to introduce visitors to the regional cuisine. In
a few instances, such as with Chef Ana Chavez of Chamonix,
these chefs are exploring the future of Mexican cuisine with
creative interpretations of traditional dishes.
For the budget-conscious, San Miguel offers
a number of tiny, local joints that serve up authentic Mexican
food without pretense. Ramble through the narrow walkways
and chat up a couple in Le Jardin to find out where the locals
go. Villa Jacaranda, an inviting, reasonably priced hotel
that doubles as the resident movie house, has a kiosk café
serving fresh fish and chips wrapped in newsprint. For an
even more affordable deal, 15 pesos will buy you a scoop of
San Miguel’s best ice cream, at Santa Clara on San Antoine.
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RESTAURANTS
Fine Dining Restaurants
Chamonix
Chef Ana Lilia Galindo Chávez
Sollano No. 17
San Miguel de Allende, Gto.
C.P 37700, Mexico
Tel: 52 415 154 8363
My first stop in San Miguel proved also to be one of the
best. At Chamonix, Chef Ana Lilia Galindo Chávez
serves a sophisticated but unpretentious interpretation
of Mexican cuisine. Her small menu, featuring lovely homemade
soups and pastas, salads, appealing appetizers and entrees,
quickly became my favorite lunch spot. The understated garden
setting adds to the already charming dishes. Artichoke soup
is simple, flavorful and light: a perfect pairing for Chamonix’s
signature salad of pear, spinach, walnuts and Roquefort.
The pasta, tossed in lemon sauce with prawns, is fresh,
delicate and tasty. For a main course, try the Swiss Fillet,
topped with blackened onions and served in a chipotle, sun
dried tomato and rosemary sauce. To thoroughly revel in
your meal, end with a slice of her delightful key lime pie.
N.B. Chávez opened Chamonix with her nephew, Chef
Allen Williams, who grew up in Mexico and completed his
culinary training in Switzerland. Now Chef Allen has his
own San Miguel restaurant, Food Factory.
- Recommended Dishes:
Artichoke Soup
Chamonix Salad
Pasta in Lemon Sauce with Prawns
- Hours:
Tuesday-Saturday, 1:30-10pm; Sunday brunch, 11am-3pm
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Azafrán
Chef Luis Maubecín
Hernandez Macias 97
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Tel: 54 415 152 7482
Describing his cuisine as Mediterranean fusion,
Chef Luis Maubecín is not afraid of experimentation.
Employing the freshest ingredients and focusing on healthy,
low-carb fare, Luis’ menu melds tradition with current
trends. He draws inspiration from Spain’s forward-thinking
chefs and adds his own style to new techniques. I started
with an excellent terrine of eggplant, mushroom and bell pepper.
In his interpretation of Chile Rellenos, the chef stuffs Ancho
chilies with shrimp drenched in a goat cheese sauce. Tequila
Flambé Shrimp was creative and delicious with its earthy
huitlacoche sauce, as was the Salmon in Honey, Ginger and
Smoked Chile Sauce.
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| Tequila
Flambé Shrimp
in Huitlacoche Sauce |
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- Recommended Dishes:
Terrine of Eggplant, Mushroom and Bell Pepper
Ancho Chile Stuffed with Shrimp in Goat Cheese Sauce
Tequila Flambé Shrimp in Huitlacoche Sauce
- Hours:
Thursday-Tuesday, 11 am- 11 pm
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Nirvana
Chef Juan Carlos Escalante
Hernández Macías 56-A
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Tel: 52 415 150 0067
Mexican born, CIA-rained Chef Juan Carlos
Escalante fuses classic Mexican cuisine with his international
experiences to create flavorful and artistic food. A bowl
of watermelon gazpacho was a refreshing and unusual take on
the tomato classic. Another typically savory dish that got
the sweet treatment was a hibiscus quesadilla. Light, yummy
and very cool, this rendition was sweet but balanced. Heading
in a different direction, Escalante’s Thai Soup was
rich with curry, cream and coconut milk. The Red Snapper in
Talla Sauce had kick, but was countered by a bed of cool cilantro.
Chicken breast was stuffed with dried fruit and served in
a piquant mole sauce accented with sweet guava. I also enjoyed
the Venison in Adobo of Black Pepper, a satisfying tomato-y
sauce with black chiles. My dessert of Plum Pie, while outsourced,
was outstanding; its provenance was identified as El Petit
Four, a bakery around the corner.
- Recommended Dishes:
Watermelon Gazpacho
Hibiscus Quesadillas
Thai Soup
- Hours:
Wednesday-Monday, 1-10 pm
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| Ristorante
da Andrea
Chef Andrea Lamberti
Carr a Dr. Mora Km. 7.5
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Tel: 52 415 120 3481
When the urge to stray from authentic Mexican
cuisine strikes, the soulful Italian cuisine of Neapolitan
Chef Andrea Lamberti is a must. Each dish is cooked lovingly,
tailored especially for his diners in the thrill of the moment.
Andrea sources ingredients typically unavailable in Mexico,
like buffalo mozzarella, giant basil, and veal; he makes his
own pasta noodles from scratch and cooks them to order. Specialties
of the house include rabbit, swordfish, veal and squid.
- Recommended Dishes:
There is no menu! Put yourself in the capable hands
of Chef Andrea and he’ll cook what his heart desires.
- Hours:
Thursday-Sunday, 1 pm-11 pm
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Harry’s
New Orleans
Chef Armando Prats
Hidalgo 12
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Tel: 52 415 152 2645
When you’re looking for something more
American, hit up Harry’s New Orleans. The talented TV
personality, Chef Armando Prats serves tried and true Creole
fare. Best bets include Duck Prats, served with a deep, rich
raspberry wine sauce, and Rock Cornish Game Hen with maple
grits and orange molasses. Harry's is also the spot to start
or end an evening with great margaritas and drinks. It's an
action-packed gathering place filled with expats, locals and
tourists alike.
- Recommended Dishes:
Duck Prats
Rock Cornish Game Hen
- Hours:
Open daily from noon to 1 am
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Casual Restaurants
Bella
Italia
Hernandez Macias #59
Tel: 52 415 152 4989
Bella Italia is a charming little Italian
restaurant in the courtyard of the Sautto, one of San Miguel’s
oldest hotels. Diners flock here for the mussels and the grilled
T-bone; Wednesday and Saturday nights feature live guitar
and jazz, respectively.
Cha
Cha Cha
Calle 28 de Abril #37, Norte
Tel: 52 415 152 6586
Boasting the best guacamole in town, this neighborhood bar
and restaurant is ideal for a casual lunch or dinner. Don’t
miss the chicken mole.
El
Rinconcito
Rufugio #7 North (in the Col San Antonio neighborhood)
This tiny restaurant, situated in the home of owners Mercedes
and Michael, serves sincere, home-style Mexican food for almost
next to nothing. Try the chicken adobe and the spinach and
shrimp quesadilla.
El Ten Ten Pie
Cuna de Allende, 21
Tel: 52 415 152 7189
Teeming with locals, El Ten Ten is a terrific place for a
quick bite at any hour. Bring the whole family and grab some
tacos, quesadillas and tortillas.
Villa Jacaranda
Aldama 54
Tel: 52 415 152 1015
Located in the courtyard of the Hotel Jacaranda, this kiosk
café was recommended by a local American living in
San Miguel. Fresh fish and chips come wrapped in newsprint;
assorted soups and key lime pie are delicious. Villa Jacaranda
also serves as the local movie house, showing films most nights
at 7:30 pm.
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HOTELS
Splurge Worthy
Hotel
Casa Linda
Mesones #101, Colonia Centro
San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
Mexico 37700
Tel: 52 415 154 4007
A small boutique hotel (only 8 rooms) centrally located
just south of the Jardín, Casa Linda features uniquely
appointed guest suites with furniture and decorations designed
by local artisans and craftsmen. Each suite includes a fireplace
and kitchenette.
- Rooms: 8
- Rates: $180-$275, 2 night minimum stay
- Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American
Express
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Casa
de Sierra Nevada
Hospicio #35 Col. Centro
San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
Mexico 37700
Tel: 52 415 152 7040
Casa de Sierra Nevada offers old world European elegance
in a beautiful colonial Mexican setting. A breezy courtyard
and climbing palm fronds set the stage for a thoroughly
elegant stay. And, they have a pool, which is very unusual
in San Miguel!
The hotel is one of the city’s most prestigious properties,
offering first-class service and tasteful, luxurious accommodations.
- Rooms: 33
- Rates: $205-$420
- Credit Cards: All Major Credit Cards
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Pricey but Sane
Villa
Jacaranda
Aldama 53
San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
Mexico 37700
Tel: 52 415 152 1015
Villa Jacaranda is ideally located within walking distance
of the city’s center. The property has a popular café
and doubles as a movie house, with films showing nightly.
Before settling in for the night, take a relaxing dip in
the hotel’s hot tub.
- Rooms: 16
- Rates: $139-$203
- Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American
Express
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Wallet-Watching
La
Mansion del Bosque
Apdo 206
Calle de Aldama No. 65
San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
Mexico 37700
Tel: 52 415 152 0277
A charming little hotel owned by an American.
Rooms are clean, comfortable and cozy, considering the extreme
affordability.
- Rooms: 23
- Rates: $35-$135
- Credit Cards: Cash and U.S. checks only
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