continued.
Despite these noteworthy products, Piedmont has remained in the shadows of its more popular southern neighbors (Milan, Florence, Rome) and the glitzier coastal destinations (Amalfi Coast, Sardinia, Capri). But this is all about to change. In February 2006, all eyes will turn to this mountainous region in Northwest Italy when it hosts the Winter Olympics. In preparation for this winter’s Games, the region is in full swing, readying itself for an influx of international visitors. New hotels are being built, old ones are being refurbished. The restaurants of the regions – and the chefs who run their kitchens – are getting ready to show everyone what makes the cuisine of Piedmont so special.

Once the opening ceremony is televised, people across the world will be curious to sample an authentic taste of this region. For chefs, no matter where you are, now is the time to brush up on your Piemontese cooking. Of course the best way to do this is to head to Piedmont now, so that come February, you’ll be prepared to offer your guests your own personal take on this region’s cuisine.

Just an hour and a half from the Milan airport, the city of Turin is a perfect place to start your trip. A stay at the centrally located Hotel Grand Sitea is ideal for exploring the world renowned coffee houses and candy stores of Turin. Make your way to Buratti and Milano for caffé, Florio for gianduja gelato and Strada for candy and chocolate. While the city has its own fair share of restaurants, serving both modern and traditional Piemontese cuisine, the spot not to miss is Combal Zero at the Rivoli Castle on the edge of the city. Chef Davide Scabin serves innovative and provocative modern Italian cuisine at this elegant restaurant overlooking the city.

If time permits, try to schedule a tour of the Peyrano Chocolate Factory. One of the oldest in the region, you’ll have a chance to see cocoa go from bean to bar. Even without a tour, the store alone is worth a visit to sample their confections. Before heading out to the country, stop by Chef Marina Scasso’s restaurant Osteria del Paluch, perched atop a hill near the church La Superga. Known as an expert on cheeses and salumi, Marina scours the woods of her backyard for herbs and foliage to incorporate into every course of the meal, taking the concept of local cuisine to a new level.

A number of outstanding chefs dot the countryside of Piedmont. Most notably the Alciati brothers, whose restaurants, Guido and Guido da Costigliole, are both fine examples of the trend towards modernizing Piemontese cuisine. For a more traditional approach, visit Restaurant San Marco in Castelli or Trattoria nelle Vigne. Both display Piemontese cooking at its best, but each offers very distinct experiences. San Marco, a one-star Michelin restaurant is rooted firmly in the classics, such as vitello tonatto (sliced veal with tuna and caper sauce) and agnolotti del plin (small, half-moon-shaped ravioli filled with meat, cheese or vegetables). Meanwhile Trattoria nelle Vigne, as the name suggests, positioned idyllically in a vineyard, has no menu and no pretensions. Enjoy simple and tasty country food - anchovies with hazelnuts, sweet peppers with tuna, and tajarin (Piemontese pasta made with only egg yolks) – at country prices. A four course meal can be yours for only 21 euros.

HOTELS

Country

Relais San Maurizio
Localita San Maurizio, 39
12058 S. Stefano Belbo (CN) Italy
Phone: 39 0141 841900
Fax: 39 0141 843833

Located on at the tippy top of a hill overlooking the village of San Stefano Belbo, this is a perfect base camp for exploring the many villages and provinces of the Piedmont countryside. Originally built as a monastery in the 17th century, there is nothing monastic about the accommodations. Rooms are located in one of two main buildings or in individual cottages that line the property. As part of the Relais & Chateaux group, one can expect to find all the creature comforts of home with just the right amount of luxury mixed in. Most rooms come equipped with fireplaces, satellite TV, fluffy robes, and beauty products from the Vinotherapie Spa. The spa offers “wine therapy,” treatments based on the healing properties of polyphenols that are present in grapes. Start the day in the Breakfast Salon, and then relax in the sauna or on the sun deck. With the one-star Michelin restaurant Guido da Costigliole located in the old wine cellar, the only reason to leave the property is so that you can look forward to coming back. Despite the plush accommodations and world-class cuisine, a stay at San Maurizio isn’t as expensive as you might think, with standard rooms starting at 160 euros in the low season and 190 euros in the high season.

• Rooms: 31
• Rates: 160 euros – 380 euros. Click here for currency converter.
• Credit Cards: AMEX, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, JCB
• What to Do: Get a grape seed massage at the spa, lay out on the sundeck and then have cocktails at the Bar Hemingway while snacking on petit fours.

Combal Zero
Piazza Mafalda di Savoia – Rivoli
Phone: 011 95 65 2222

Davide Scabin isn’t just a chef; he’s a scientist, comedian, and artist all rolled into one. His laboratory is Combal Zero, the glossy restaurant overlooking Turin from the Castello di Rivoli complex, just outside the city. While the view might take your breath away, it’s nothing compared to what’s behind the kitchen door. He uses engineering to take food apart and then put it back together in unexpected ways, as in a pizza soup (a liquid slice) or a virtual oyster (a blending of watermelon, tuna eggs, and almond that tastes just like the briny mollusk it references). A methodic experimenter, Scabin expects patrons to let go of their inhibitions and interact with his food. A chisel and hammer accompany the fish fossil, and you’ll need a scalpel to crack into his signature cyber eggs. His innovative food is matched only by the naming of each dish: Harry Potter, Ham Book, and Piola Kit to name a few. Already a player on the international food scene, Scabin hopes to tear down the barriers between the dining room and the kitchen, creating a seamless experience where all senses play a part.

• Recommended Dishes:
  Savoy Bombe
  Cold Pea Soup
  Ham Book
  Cyber Eggs
  Piola Kit
  Cocoa Alexander

Osteria del Paluch
Baldissero Torinese (Torino)
Via Superga, 44 – 10020
Phone: 39 011 94 08 750

Chef Marina Scasso’s restaurant is perched atop a hill near the church La Superga. The restaurant serves a set menu that changes daily, depending on her whim and the products of the season. Known as an expert on cheeses and salumi, Marina scours the woods of her backyard for herbs and foliage to incorporate into every course of the meal, taking the concept of local cuisine to a new level. During the summer the outside park becomes part of the restaurant which allows Marina to serve more guests.

Villa San Carlo
Corso Divisioni Alpine 41
Cortemilia 12074
Phone: 39 0173 81546

Carlo Zarri is the owner and chef of this hotel cum restaurant in Cortemilia, a Piemontese town in the Langhe region. Zarri, a sommelier and member of the Italian Sommelier Association, has personally collected an extensive wine cellar with a focus on local wines. In addition to his chef and sommelier duties, Zarri teaches classes on the foods of Piedmont and has written two guidebooks on regional cooking and cuisine. He will also be in charge of catering services for the NBC coverage of the Olympic Games. StarChefs met up with him on his recent trip to New York when he cooked dinner at the James Beard House.