|
As our editorial tasting trip to this culinary Mecca approached,
the StarChefs team mapped out our dining itinerary so that half
our meals fit into the eight-dollars-or-under price range. Beignets,
étouffée, gumbo, jambalaya. The list of “must-try”
foods was extensive, but we were determined to understand the Creole
craze. The other half of our meals were earmarked as part of an
exploration into the haute cuisine scene.
Our sampling of the city’s cheap eats proved hit or miss,
but we do offer the following disclaimer. Our small team did not
conduct a scientific taste test, nor did we have a thorough sampling
of the city’s low-cost grub. The muffaletta’s that we
encountered were giant cardboard sandwiches loaded with slimy deli
meats and limp lettuce. One editor tried a shrimp étouffée
po’ boy in order to obtain two “must-trys” for
the price of one. The étouffée filling was bland and
mushy, and the bread bordered on stale. Another editor’s seafood
gumbo was under-seasoned and gummy.
Much to our delight, we found these classics superbly executed
at Muriel’s in Jackson Square. Under the expert care of Chef
Erik Veney, po’ boys, gumbo, and étouffée were
well textured, perfectly seasoned, and rich in flavor. Lunch here
cost just a bit more than at the typical “eight-dollar”
establishments, but we all agreed that it was worth spending a little
extra for food that was more satisfying.
A round of traditional candied pralines elicited mixed reactions
from the team; the acknowledged sweet-toothed editors among us were
pleased by the sugary confection, but the others complained about
the cloyingly sweet candy. One standout in the cheap eats category
was the golden fried beignets smothered in powdered sugar at Café
du Monde, accompanied by a mug of their chicory coffee with warm
milk and sugar. Perfection.
Our overall assessment of New Orleans’ cheap eats was that
they were a fundamental part of the food culture, but by no means
the most compelling of the city’s offerings.
Our adventures in haute cuisine proved more gratifying. What we
discovered during these pricier tastings was that New Orleans cuisine
is much more than just Creole. The Big Easy’s food scene is
a vast frontier with scores of establishments, both grand and cozy,
that explore beyond the borders of typical Creole cuisine.
Chef Susan Spicer rules this culinary kingdom. At Bayona she brilliantly
executes innovative renditions of familiar fare, for example Asparagus
Flan with Smoked Salmon-Potato Salad. Spicer is also a partner
in recently opened Herbsaint, a casual contemporary bistro in the
Warehouse District. Chef Donald Link holds court there, and, like
Spicer, he focuses on rich and flavorful dishes like Arugula and
Endive Salad with Rabbit Croquettes.
At Stella!, the formal service appropriately matches the elegant
townhouse setting and the handsome antique furniture and paintings.
Chef Scott Boswell’s preparations and presentations are impressive,
including the Crayfish-Stuffed Squash Blossom with Lobster Cream
Sauce. On the opposite end of the spectrum is Marisol, where an
intimate dining space opens up on an outdoor garden. Chef/owner
Peter Vasquez, who runs the restaurant along with his wife and a
tiny staff of two, has captured the attention of New Orleans foodies.
Vasquez strives to punctuate his dishes with unusual ingredients
like whistle garlic and fiddleheads.
Our editorial team felt truly at home in the Soho-esque dining
room of Restaurant August. Chef John Besh charmed us with an esoteric
tasting menu featuring asparagus in every dish. The dessert - white
asparagus rhubarb cobbler with buttermilk ice - was surprisingly
simple and subtle.
At Restaurant Cuvée, we discovered a place where the focus
is on the fundamental Creole dishes that have otherwise disappeared
from the New Orleans food scene. These authentic dishes reflect
the influences of France and Spain on the foods of Louisiana. The
oenophiles among us were agog over one of the city’s most
extensive wine lists.
Even more thrilling than finally locating well-executed traditional
New Orleans cuisine was discovering the places that redefine the
classics with creative twists and bold interpretations. At FQB in
the Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, Chef Matt Murphy doesn’t
just churn out ordinary seafood gumbo; he serves a velvety duck
gumbo with wild mushrooms.
And at Wolfe’s, Chef/Owner Tom Wolfe builds on the traditional
Creole cuisine by applying innovative techniques and styles. Caviar
and Dungeness crab in a cold avocado soup with heirloom tomatoes,
micro-arugula, roasted sweet peppers and a spicy lobster oil: can
we get an “Amen?”
By the end of our journey, the StarChefs editors concurred that
we had tasted the essence of New Orleans, one of the country’s
most vibrant and entertaining culinary destinations. We had experienced
not only the city’s traditional Creole fare, but also its
inventive new cuisine.
|
HOTELS
International House Hotel
221 Camp St.
New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 553-9550
This fashionable boutique hotel located two blocks from the French
Quarter features vintage Louisiana folk art. The lobby display is
ever-changing, with voodoo magic during the summer, headdresses
made by Mardi Gras Indians for Carnival, and oversized images of
Louis Armstrong in August.
- Rooms: 119
- Rates: $113-$398
- Amenities:
CD players outfitted with cool jazz tunes
Vases filled with colorful Louisiana wildflowers
Fitness center equipped with Cybex bikes and other workout essentials
- Credit Cards: AE, MC, V, DC
- What to Do: Check out Loa Bar, a hypnotic, candle-lit
spot with Gothic church mirrors on the walls.
Hotel Le Cirque
936 Saint Charles Ave.
New Orleans, LA
Phone: (888) 782-9722
Hotel LeCirque combines creative architecture and design with
authentic local décor. Located halfway between the Garden
District and the French Quarter, it is a great hotel for those who
are interested in exploring both areas of New Orleans. A discounted
car service is available for guests, making it especially easy to
get around the city.
- Rooms: 137
- Rates: $69-$298
- Amenities:
Access to full service gym
Concierge Services
- Credit Cards: AE, MC, V, D
- What to Do: Work off dinner by taking a dip in the swimming
pool or shooting hoops at the gym.
Loft 523
523 Gravier St.
New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 200-6523
This truly boutique hotel calls itself “a sexy sophisticated
sanctuary.” The ultra-modern yet intimate lodging is located
in downtown New Orleans, near Harrah's Casino and the Riverwalk. The
bathrooms are to-die-for, spacious and spa-like, with luxurious bath
amenities. Each bathtub is made by the Italian manufacturer Agape
and resembles a cappuccino cup.
- Rooms: 18
- Rates: $149-$495
- Amenities:
Wireless Internet Access In Rooms
Phone Service W/voicemail
Shoe Shine Service
24 hour access to International House's fitness center
- Credit Cards: AE, MC, D, V
- What to do: If you’re feeling flush, when you make
your reservation order the milk bath package – for $495
you’ll get a one-night stay, double occupancy, and whenever
you want, an attendant will set up a luxurious milk bath for you
and will deliver glazed donuts.
Hotel Monaco
333 Saint Charles Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 561-0010
This luxury hotel with a residential feel is a former Masonic Temple
built in the mid 1920s. It is located just blocks from the French
Quarter. As with all Monaco’s, the hotel is pet friendly,
with pet services ranging from delivering food and water bowls to
your room to providing an information card with local veterinarians
and pet sitting services listed, as well as a map of great dog walks
in the neighborhood. The staff is friendly and funky and delivers
great service. Unlike most hotels in the area, high-speed internet
access and business center are complimentary. What’s more,
Cobalt, the restaurant located in the hotel, serves up unbelievably
satisfying comfort food.
- Rooms: 250
- Rates: $129-$409
- Amenities:
"Tall Rooms" available with 9-foot king sized beds
Complimentary high-speed Internet access
Two-line phones
Complimentary evening wine service
Complimentary morning newspaper
- Credit Cards: AE, MC, V, DC, D, Carte Blanche, Japan
Credit Bureau
- What to Do: Enjoy your pet goldfish. (If you don’t
bring a pet, they’ll provide a low-maintenance one for you!)
Pere Marquette
817 Common St.
New Orleans, LA 70112
Phone: (504) 525-1111
Fax: 1 504-525-0688
This contemporary hotel with a 50’s art deco feel is not
the typical lodging owned by Marriot. It’s a cool, happening
place with attentive service and a great location just 2 blocks
from the French Quarter. Rooms are small but comfortable and have
that same retro feel as the rest of the hotel. Order room service
and you’ll get a fabulous meal from the kitchen of Chef Rene
Bajeux of Rene Bistrot located inside the hotel.
- Rooms: 275
- Rates: $99-$265
- Amenities:
2-line phones
Voicemail
Data ports on phone
High-speed internet access provided by STSN
Newspaper delivered (Mon-Fri)
- Credit Cards: AE, V, MC, D, DC
- What to Do: Take a dip in the pool or just stay in your
room and order up breakfast, lunch and dinner from Rene Bistrot.
The Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans
904 Iberville St.
New Orleans, LA 70112
Phone: (504) 670-2900
FAX: 504-670-2864
You’ll get attentive, white-glove service in this well-appointed
Ritz-Carlton, just like in any other hotel by that name. The similarities
end there though. At the Maison Orleans, you’ll be transported
to an intimate English country manor located in the French Quarter.
Sip a cocktail and listen to jazz in the hotel restaurant, FQB (French
Quarter Bar), or sit and enjoy the sophisticated comfort food there,
expertly prepared by Chef Matt Murphy.
- Rooms: 75
- Rates: $219-$415
- Amenities:
Full-service spa with fitness center and beauty salon
Complimentary continental breakfast
Ample bathtubs with Jacuzzi jets
CD/DVD players with an extensive complimentary library
High speed Internet access (not complimentary)
- Credit Cards: AE, MC, V, DC
- What to Do: Order daily spa bath service in your room.
The Windsor Court Hotel
300 Gravier St.
New Orleans, LA
Phone: (888) 596-0955
FAX: (504) 596-4513
An elegant hotel for discriminating guests who enjoy a formal experience.
The attentive staff is mostly British, and they will cater to your
every need. If you forget your toothpaste, they’ll whisk a
tube up to your room right away, at no charge. Rooms are well-appointed,
and the suites include a living room and kitchen. The infinity edge
pool is beautifully lit at night, offering a breathtaking spot for
a stroll. The hotel restaurant, The New Orleans Grill, serves superb
food in a formal setting.
- Rooms: 324
- Rates: $180-$538
- Amenities:
Telephones with two incoming lines equipped with data port capabilities
RJ45 high-speed internet access
Nightly turndown service with imported chocolates or Windsor Court
pralines
Remote controlled VCR/television
Italian marble bathrooms
- Credit Cards: AE, MC, V, D, DC, Eurocard
- What to Do: Enjoy afternoon tea in the library.
RESTAURANTS
Restaurant August
301 Tchoupitoulas St
New Orleans, LA 70130-2408
Phone: (504) 299-9777
For a moment, you might think you’re in Soho instead of the
Big Easy when you first encounter this restaurant’s loft-like
setting, with columns and high-ceilings. Chef John Besh’s
menu is cause for a second double-take. He is known to serve unusual
fare, like a tasting menu with asparagus in every dish, including
dessert. Besh’s food is about fresh ingredients and simplicity,
and the result is delicious.
- Recommended dishes:
Terrine of Cherokee Purple tomatoes with white asparagus soup
White Asparagus and Rhubarb Cobbler with Buttermilk Ice
- Hours:
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11am-2pm
Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5:30pm-10:00pm
Bayona
430 Dauphine St.
New Orleans, LA 70112
Phone: (504) 525-4455
StarChef Susan Spicer’s flagship restaurant has been highly
acclaimed by many important food publications. She thrills her customers
with innovative renditions of familiar fare; her play on the usual
PB & J becomes a sophisticated Cashew Butter, Pepper Jelly and
Duck Sandwich.
- Recommended dishes:
Asparagus Flan with Smoked Salmon-Potato Salad
Shrimp or Crayfish Clemenceau
Cashew Butter, Pepper Jelly & Duck Sandwich
Pork Medallions with Prosciutto, Fontina and Marsala Sauce
- Hours:
Lunch:
Monday-Friday 11:30am – 2:00pm
Dinner:
Monday-Thursday 6:00pm – 10:00pm
Friday & Saturday 6:00pm – 11:00pm
Cobalt (in the Hotel
Monaco)
333 Saint Charles Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70130
Cross Street: Perdido Street
Phone: (504) 565-5595
Located in the Hotel Monaco, Cobalt is a surreal experience with
a fanciful décor all in primary colors. The cuisine is also
unbelievable - comfort food like you’ve never seen before.
You won’t be able to get enough of Chef Brack May’s
Sexy Scallion Grits.
- Recommended dishes:
Pan Seared Shrimp and Scallops with White Wine, Lemon Zest, and
Roasted Garlic over Sexy Scallion Grits
Pan Seared Halibut over Parmesan Gnocchi with Louisiana Crab,
Fresh English Peas and Tomato Confit
Bruce’s Banana Crème Pie
- Lunch:
Sunday 8:30 am-10:30am
Monday 7am-10am & 11:30am-2pm
Tueday-Friday 7am-10am & 11:30am-2pm
Saturday 8:30am-10:30am
Dinner:
Sunday 5:30pm-10pm
Tueday-Friday 5:30pm-10pm
Saturday 5:30pm-10pm
Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Ave.
Cross Street: Coliseum Street
New Orleans, Louisiana 70130
Phone: (504) 899-8221
Commander’s Palace is a New Orleans institution and perennial
favorite among tourists. For quintessential classics from the Big
Easy, Executive Chef Tory McPhail won’t fail you.
- Recommended dishes:
Oysters and Caviar Trufant
“Deep Dish” Rabbit and Foie Gras Pie
- Lunch:
Monday – Friday 11:30am-2:00pm
Dinner:
Monday – Sunday 6:00pm-10:00pm
Jazz Brunch:
Saturday 11:30am-1:00pm
Sunday 10:30am-1:30pm
Restaurant Cuvée
322 Magazine St.
New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 587-9001
In this brick-walled dining room, Executive Chef Bob Iacovone
serves Creole Continental fare, prepared with the area’s freshest
seasonal ingredients. Cuvée aims to recover the fundamental
Creole dishes that have slipped below the city’s radar in
recent years. These dishes reflect the influences of France and
Spain on the foods of Louisiana.
With one of the most extensive wine lists in the city, Cuvée
is an important destination for wine-lovers.
- Recommended dishes:
Braised Pork Breast with Jicama-Citrus Slaw
Char-Grilled Plaquemines Parish Oysters with Parmigiano-Reggiano
and White truffle Oil
Grilled Filet of Beef with Balsamic Sweet Onion-Charred Tomato
Relish
- Hours:
Lunch:
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner:
Monday-Thursday 6:00pm-10:00pm
Friday-Saturday 6:00pm-11:00pm
FQB (In the Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans)
904 Iberville St.
New Orleans, LA 70112
Phone: (504) 670-2900
Chef Matt Murphy turns out pure culinary indulgences in this surprisingly
laid back restaurant and bar. You’ll be blown away by his
sophisticated comfort food like duck gumbo and seared crab cakes.
- Recommended dishes:
Duck Gumbo
Seared Crab Cake
Mushroom Fresh Herb Crusted Snapper
Seared Scallops
- Lunch:
11:00am-2:30pm
Dinner:
5:00pm-11:00pm
Day menu:
2:30pm-5:00pm
Jazz Brunch:
Sunday 10:00am-2:00pm
The New Orleans Grill (formerly
The Grill Room, in the Windsor Court Hotel)
300 Gravier St.
New Orleans, LA 70130-2417
Phone: (504) 523-6000
The New Orleans Grill is the ultimate in formal dining in New Orleans.
In the foyer, an elegant Lalique crystal table holds magnificent
floral arrangements. The grand circular staircase visible from the
lobby will take your breath away, as pianist Michael Pellara effortlessly
strokes the keys of a grand piano. The setting is perfect for Chef
Jonathan Wright to serve his complex dishes, expertly constructed
with layer upon layer of glorious flavors.
- Recommended dishes:
Horseradish Cream with Beet, Jelly Cured Tuna and Sea Urchin Emulsion
Truffled Scrambled Eggs
Roasted Lobster with Confit Tomatoes and Eggplant en Presse
- Hours:
Breakfast: 7:00am-10:30am
Lunch: 11:30am-2:00pm
Dinner: 6:00pm-10:00pm
Sunday Brunch: 11:00am-2:00pm
Herbsaint Bar & Restaurant
701 St Charles Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70130
Cross Street: Girod Street
Phone: (504) 524-4114
The restaurant is named after the anise-flavored liqueur, Herbsaint,
a specialty of New Orleans. Chef Donald Link offers refined cuisine
in a relaxed setting. The focus is on the food in this quiet location
away from the din of the French Quarter.
- Recommended dishes:
Gumbo of the day
Arugula and Endive Salad with Rabbit Croquettes
Fried Frog Legs with Fresh Fines Herbes
Beef Short Rib on Potato Cake with Dijon-Horseradish Dressing
- Hours:
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-3:00pm
Dinner: Monday-Friday 5:30pm-10:30pm
Lilette
3637 Magazine St.
New Orleans, LA 70115-2553
Phone: (504) 895-1636
Located amid Magazine Street’s famous antique shops, the
atmosphere at Lilette is charming old New Orleans. Chef John Harris’s
contemporary French and Italian menu is a pleasant alternative to
the Creole food of many New Orleans restaurants.
- Recommended dishes:
White Truffle Parmigiano Toast with Wild Mushrooms, Marrow and
Veal Glace
Potato Gnocchi with Sage Brown Butter and Parmigiano Cream
- Hours:
Lunch:
Tuesday-Friday 11:30am-2:00pm
Dinner:
Tuesday-Thursday 6:00pm-10:00pm
Friday & Saturday 6:00pm-11:00pm
Marisol
437 Esplanade Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70116-2014
Phone: (504) 943-1912
A husband and wife team, plus a sous-chef and waiter comprise this
tiny but exquisite gem of a restaurant. Chef Peter Vasquez prepares
the hippest cuisine in the city and goes out of his way to bring
you unusual ingredients like whistle garlic and fiddleheads.
- Recommended dishes:
Pan Crisp Sweetbreads, Whistle Garlic, Citrus Zest and Fava Beans
Hudson Valley Foie Gras served over a Sushi Rice Cake
- Hours:
Lunch:
Tuesday-Friday 11am-2pm
Dinner:
Friday-Saturday 6-11pm
Sunday brunch:
11am-2pm
Mother's Restaurant
401 Poydras St
New Orleans, LA 70130-3207
Phone: (504) 523-9656
Tourists eagerly queue up for down-home grub at this notorious
dive, which is said to serve the best Po’ Boys in town. Service
is cafeteria style, with a counter or two for leaning while you
shovel. Kids love this place. Reservations not accepted.
- Recommended dishes:
'Ferdi Special' Po’Boy, a combination of baked ham, roast
beef, debris (the roast beef which falls into the gravy in the
oven), shredded cabbage and condiments, including Creole mustard
- Hours:
Monday-Saturday 5am-10pm
Sunday 7am-9pm
Muriel's
801 Chartres St. at St. Ann
New Orleans, LA 70116-3206
Phone: (504)568-1885 If you want to know what traditional
New Orleans food is all about, Muriel’s is the place to go.
Chef Erik Veney executes the classics like po’ boys, seafood
gumbo, and crawfish etouffée. His food is well-matched by
the décor, an authentic New Orleans dining room that is both
beautiful and casual.
- Recommended dishes:
Oysters Muriel
Shrimp Remoulade
Pecan Crusted Puppy Drum
- Hours:
Lunch:
Wednesday-Sunday 11:30am-3:30pm
Dinner:
Sunday-Thursday 5:30pm-10:00 pm
Friday-Saturday 5:30pm-11:00pm
René Bistrot (in the Renaissance
Inn)
817 Common St.
New Orleans, LA 70112-2307
Cross Street: Carondelet Street
Phone: (504) 412-2580
Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, René Bistrot
is well worth a visit. Chef René Bajeux executes marvelous
dishes, including the most incredible whole fish. In addition to
serving heavenly grown-up fare, the kitchen will keep youngsters
happy with kid-appropriate meals.
- Recommended dishes:
Moules Basquaise
Foie Gras Sauté
Demi Canard au Miel et Vinaigre
- Hours:
Breakfast:
Sunday-Thursday 6:30am-10:30am
Friday-Saturday 6:00am-11:00am
Lunch:
Sunday-Thursday 11:30am-2:30pm
Friday-Saturday 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner:
Sunday-Saturday 6:00pm-10:00pm
Stella!
1032 Chartres St.
New Orleans, LA 70116
Phone: (504) 587-0091
Service is formal at this restaurant which occupies an elegant
townhouse and is decorated with beautiful antique furniture and
paintings. Accountant-turned-chef Scott Boswell has an unabashed
love of food and delights in sharing it with his guests. Boswell’s
time spent working alongside Jean-Georges Vongerichten shows in
his impressive dishes.
- Recommended dishes:
Crayfish Stuffed Squash Blossom with Lobster Cream Sauce
Scallop Seared with Andouille Sausage & Vegetable Hash
Almond and Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with House Lamb Sausage,
Parmesan Gnocchi
- Hours:
Dinner:
Sunday, Monday, Wednesday & Thursday 6:00pm-10:00pm
Friday & Saturday 6:00pm-10:30pm
Uglesich's
1238 Baronne St.
New Orleans, LA 70113-1204
Phone: (504) 523-8571
Kids adore this little hole-in-the-wall that is open weekdays for
lunch only. Chef Anthony Barone serves cheap New Orleans eats straight-up
without fanfare. Grits, fried green tomatoes, po’boys, and
fried oysters are easy to come by here. Don’t save room for
dessert, because you won’t find any here. No reservations
and no credit cards accepted.
- Recommended dishes:
Fried Pasta Shells
Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms
Bar-B-Que Oysters
Etouffée
- Hours:
Lunch: Monday–Friday 10:00am-4:00pm
Wolfe's of New Orleans
7224 Ponchartrain Blvd.
New Orleans, LA 70124
Phone: (504) 284-6004
It’s well worth the trip out to Lake Pontchartrain for Chef
Tom Wolfe’s contemporary Louisiana cuisine in a homey setting.
Protégé to Emeril Lagasse, Chef Wolfe spent years
in powerhouse kitchens in New Orleans. Now at the helm of his own
restaurant, he challenges the traditional dishes of the Big Easy
by applying innovative techniques and styles.
- Recommended dishes:
Steen’s Cane Syrup Slow Roasted Duck
Cedar Plank Grilled New Zealand Lamb Tenderloin
- Hours:
Lunch:
Monday–Friday 11:30am-2:00pm
Dinner:
Monday–Saturday, with reservations starting at 5:30pm
BARS
FQB (In
the Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans) Drinks include six different types
of Bloody Mary's and four different types of oyster shooters. Local
jazz vocalists and pianists, including Jeremy Davenport, Banu Gibson
and Karin Williams perform nightly until 2am. Continental jazz brunch
is served every Sunday, with live jazz, from 11:30am-2pm.
- 904 Iberville St.
New Orleans, LA 70112
Phone: (504) 670-2900
Nick's A downright dive, the slogan
at Nick’s is "Looks like the oldest bar in town!"
This dark nightspot features billiards and occasional live music.
Go for the drinks with vulgar names, many of which involve cream.
Equally vulgar are the undergarments hanging from the ceiling.
- 2400 Tulane Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70119-7557
Cross Street: S Tonti Street
Phone: (504) 821-9128
Molly's at the Market Molly's
Irish bar is a French Quarter favorite, attracting an assortment
of locals and tourists. There's Guinness on tap and the pints are
cheap. The kitchen in back will grill you a burger to soak up the
beer.
- 1107 Decatur St.
New Orleans, LA, 70116-2605
Phone: (504) 525-5169
Razoo
In New Orleans parlance, "razoo" can be used when
you want to get something before someone else does. For example,
"Let's get to the movie early so that we can razoo good seats."
You needn’t worry about razooing drinks at Razoo because there
are plenty to go around. Three-for-one specials are served every
night at this Bourbon St. watering hole.
- 511 Bourbon St.
New Orleans, LA
Phone: (504) 522-5100
|
