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what
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DINING IN THE DESERT
By Amy Tarr and Minna Suh
Having traveled the
country's major culinary destinations over the years,
StarChefs' editors have experienced the peculiar dining
cultures of cities like Los Angeles, Boston, Chicago,
San Francisco, Philadelphia, New Orleans, Seattle, Miami
and, of course, our hometown of New York. Each city
has its own dining vibe, as well as a set of challenging
parameters that keep chefs on top of their game (and
keep them complaining after-hours). For example, in
Boston, many chefs struggle with a conservative dining
base. In New York, chefs vie to stay in business as
they dodge the slings and arrows of piercing reviewers,
fickle diners, and angry landlords. Traditionally, few
New Orleans chefs have dared to swim against the tide
of Creole and Cajun cuisines, although now in the wake
of Katrina, the effort to preserve that cultural legacy
has grown immeasurably.
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So what of Las Vegas, the Disneyland for
adults, Sin City, the fastest growing city in America? The
challenges that chefs face there are manifold. Foremost is
the fact that everything about Las Vegas is larger than life.
That means that chefs must reckon with 200-plus covers nightly,
a daunting endeavor when those 200-odd diners come from all
walks of life – from all over the world. The task of
cooking for a broad range of clientele is magnified when the
restaurant sits right on the casino floor, such as Bradley
Ogden at Caesars or Michael Mina in the Bellagio.
Everyone from high rollers to bachelor-partiers are likely
to stroll in for a look or a bite.
The second biggest challenge lies in the
fact that Las Vegas is literally a man-made oasis in the desert.
Local produce is virtually non-existent, which means that
almost all of the produce served there is shipped from around
the country and the world. For chefs like Daniel Boulud at
his brasserie in the Wynn, and Tom Colicchio at CraftSteak
in MGM, sourcing first-rate product is a priority, no matter
what the cost. So when you go to Las Vegas, you must expect
to pay more for the heirloom tomato salad, or that fruit de
mer platter.
While you just can’t please everyone
all of the time, Las Vegas chefs and restaurateurs often make
the greatest effort to try, and most often the result is a
middle-of-the-road approach with familiar ingredients, flavor
combinations, as well as tried and true techniques. Those
chefs who dare to push the envelope, such as Sven Mede at
NobHill, Jacques Van Staden at Alizé,
or Bryan Ogden at Bradley Ogden, have found a way
to do so in ever so subtle ways, and we applaud their efforts.
Of course it is no wonder that the two most
commonly overheard words in Las Vegas are “buffet”
and “steakhouse.” While we can’t say much
for the buffets, we can highlight a handful of superb steakhouses
that are really creative, fine dining restaurants in disguise
– SW Steakhouse, Neros, Prime, Charlie Palmer Steak
and CraftSteak to be exact. Of course all that red
meat deserves a fine Cabernet or Bordeaux, and one utterly
brilliant element of the Las Vegas dining circuit is the veritable
plethora of master sommeliers and trophy wine cellars that
rival San Francisco and New York. As a chef-focused publication,
rarely do we approach a meal as a compliment to wine, but
in Vegas, it might be worth your while to build dinner around
a bottle (high rollers and lucky beginners…) at your
perilous expense.
There appears to be no end in sight to the
influx of celebrity chef outlets – Guy Savoy
at Caesars being the most recent, with Mario Batali and David
Burke fast on his heels. This phenomenon begs two questions:
1. Are these celebrity chef outposts as good as the originals?
and 2. Can a talented chef who is not a mega-superstar open
a restaurant in Las Vegas now and succeed?
The answer to the first question is an emphatic
no – given the afore-mentioned challenges, there is
just no way that these copy cats can rival the level of cuisine
being produced at their twin restaurants. The better formula
that seems to be proving successful is a celebrity chef concept
restaurant that doesn’t seek to recreate a New York
or San Francisco experience but rather tailors a restaurant
concept to the peculiar challenges of the place. Daniel
Boulud Brasserie is a perfect example. Mr. Boulud
opted not to recreate the opulence of Daniel, or
the chic fusion dishes of Café Boulud, or
even the bistro moderne dishes of DB Bistro Moderne
– three successful restaurants set in New York City.
Rather, he embraced the brasserie concept with its classic
but limited menu that he knew he could better deliver at a
high quality level every night of the week, every week of
the year.
The second question is much harder to answer,
and as we watch our young and talented Las Vegas Rising Stars
blossom, we hope that the city's ever-growing community will
support them in their own right, just as other cities embrace
these ambitious phenoms when they feel the time is right to
spread their wings and step out of the shadows of their more
experienced and celebrated mentor chefs.
And now…a somewhat lengthy though still
selective rundown of what to eat and where to stay in Las
Vegas.
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RESTAURANTS:
French:
Alizé
The Palms Casino Resort
4321 West Flamingo Road
Las Vegas, NV 89103
(702) 951-7000
Sunday-Thursday 5:30 - 10:00 pm
Friday-Saturday 5:30 - 10:30 pm
Situated
at the top of the Palms, local celebrity chef Andre Rochat
offers modern French-American cuisine in an elegant setting.
Plush burgundy velvet chairs envelope you, as does the panoramic
view of Las Vegas, one of the best night time vantages in
town. Executive Chef Jacques Van Staden, a Jean-Louis Palladin
protégé and Rising Star, has a way with gourmet
ingredients, swaying guests to try things by coupling them
with very familiar ingredients. A texture fanatic, his dishes
incorporate lots of constrast, balancing smooth with “crunchies.”
Pastry Chef Tammy Alana, who was also named a Rising Star,
more than holds her own with fun modern takes on classic desserts,
as in the pandan leaf cheesecake spring rolls. Master Sommelier
Steve Geddes’s wine list is off the charts.
Recommended Dishes:
- Roasted Muscovy Duck Breast with
Almond Toast, Spice Roasted Duck Leg with Braised Rhubarb
and Brix Duck Sauce
- Beef Tartare with Crunchy Chor
- Pan Seared Foie Gras with Vine
Ripe Tomato Confiture, Rice Cake and Beef Jus
- Summer Truffle Risotto with Green
Peas, Applewood Smoked Bacon and Crispy Sweetbreads
- Pandan
Leaf Cheesecake Spring Roll with Tapioca
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Daniel Boulud Brasserie
Wynn Las Vegas
3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(888) 320-7110
Nightly 5:30 - 10:00 pm
Daniel Boulud has had opportunities to open dozens
of restaurants beyond New York City’s borders.
After the success of Café Boulud Palm
Beach, he found an appealing venture in Vegas. One
of the few mega celebrity chefs to open in the Wynn,
Boulud purposely veered from his Daniel, Café
Boulud and DB Bistro models to try his
hand at a brasserie, with its casual, formulaic menu.
The quality of the ingredients is superb, but the
menu is fairly traditional, as in the tarte tatin
and braised beef short ribs. Chef Phillipe Rispoli,
like Daniel Boulud, is a native of Lyon. This Las
Vegas local cut his teeth at Aureole under
Charlie Palmer and was recently named a StarChefs
Rising Star. Lincoln Carson, one of New York City’s
great pastry chefs, has found a new home here as well,
and uses his under-the-radar position to play with
fashion-forward pastry like passion fruit panna cotta
with lemongrass consommé.
Recommended Dishes:
- Curry Risotto and Lobster
- Tatin of Tomato with Goat
Cheese and Arugula Pistou
- Raw Bar: Raspberry Oysters
- Roasted Muscovy Duck with
Bing Cherry Jus and Almond-Potato Croquette
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Restaurant Guy Savoy
Caesars Palace
Augustus Tower, 2nd floor
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(877) 346-4642
Wednesday-Sunday 5:30 - 10:30 pm
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays
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Milk-fed Poussin,
Baby Leeks, Roasted
Fingerling Potatoes at Guy Savoy
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Restaurant Guy Savoy, designed by architect
Jean-Michel Wilmotte and his team of 99 designers,
occupies the second floor of the Augustus Tower. The
classically-inspired architecture was thought out
to the last detail. Even the sexy hostess outfits
– palazzo pants slit up the sides and daring
midriff tops – match the minimalist scenery,
subdued with dark woods, gray stone and leather seats.
Executive Chefs Damien Dulas, Laurent Soliveres and
Chef de Cuisine Adam Sobel provide a decadent dining
experience. Their total commitment to dining pleasure
through variety and choice is apparent in their innovative
bread pairings. Standouts include a series of amuse
bouches served on spoons that allow diners to taste
(much the same way that chefs do in their kitchens)
and tender milk-fed poussin, from the open kitchen’s
rotisserie, sitting on a bed of baby leeks, fingerling
potatoes and girolles – baby chanterelle mushrooms.
By the time dessert literally rolls around-on a cart
loaded with jars (echoing the kitschy serving style
from Savoy’s Paris location) filled with choices
like rice pudding, chocolate mousse, clafoutis and
langues de chat, you’ll probably be too full
to savor them, but might make more of an effort if
the choices bended tradition a bit more.
Recommended Dishes:
- Toro and Maguro Tartare,
Golden Osetra Caviar, Poached Quail Egg, Shellfish
Emulsion
- Colors of Caviar
- Milk-fed Poussin, Baby
Leeks, Roasted Fingerling Potatoes
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Fleur
de Lys
Mandalay Bay Resort
3950 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(702) 632-9400
Nightly 5:30 - 10:30 pm
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Foie Gras Cappuccino at Fleur de Lys
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With formality exuding from its dining room, Star
Chef Hubert Keller’s Fleur de Lys serves
traditional French food that defines classically refined
fare. Chef de Cuisine Laurent Pillard’s decadent
foie gras cappuccino, served in an espresso cup, is
whimsical yet simple – a dish not to miss. The
dining room is airy and elegant – from warm
lighting bouncing off the curving brick walls and
the dramatic 30-foot ceiling lending a sense of spaciousness.
Designers made use of the small floor space by building
upwards – a table at the second floor wine vault
provides an entertaining view of the dining scene
below. Fleur de Lys is the perfect beginning
to a romantic night out.
Recommended Dishes:
- Roasted Squab Breast filled
with Foie Gras and Truffles
- Foie Gras Cappuccino with
Corn Madeleine
- Braised Beef Ribs with
Carrot Confit
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Mix
Mandalay Bay Resort
3950 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(702) 632-9500
Nightly 6:00 - 10:30 pm
Lounge: Sunday - Thursday: 5:00 pm - 2:00 am Friday
- Saturday: 5:00 pm - 4:00 am
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The dining room at
Mix Las Vegas
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Alain Ducasse meets George Jetson at
this hyper-modern, ultra-sexy restaurant atop The Hotel
at Mandalay Bay. Ducasse’s executive chef Bruno
Davaillon whips up modern French wonders that balance
fussy and fun with a happening bar scene. Pastry Chef
Gregory Gourreau delivers a fun finish with desserts
like the Mix Candy Bar, a brownie-like dacquoise covered
with praline paste and caramel. Black and White Chocolate
Pizza comes complete with milk and dark chocolate ‘mushrooms’
on a thin brioche crust. Sommelier JB Balduc is the
quintessential wine guide. Let him pair wines for your
meal.
Recommended Dishes:
- Roasted Maine Lobster “au
Curry,” Coconut Basmati Rice
- Lobster Salad with Avocado
and Osetra Caviar Cream
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Picasso
The Bellagio
3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South (Flamingo Rd.)
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(877) 234-6358
(702) 693-8105
Wednesday-Monday 6:00 - 9:30 pm
Closed Tuesdays
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Foie Gras and Summer
Truffles at Picasso
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Julian Serrano, an original Vegas celebrity chef,
lives up to the nightly challenge of having his food
compete with a world-class Picasso exhibit. In fact,
it doesn’t feel like a competition at all, because
there’s no better way to experience art than
sitting down to a fine meal with first rate wines,
care of Master Sommelier Robert Smith. Serrano’s
respect for ingredients is so intense he looks to
complement meat dishes with the ingredients of the
terroir the animals graze on, as in the Fallow Deer
with Granny Smith Apples, Asparagus and Beef Bone
Reduction. So sit back, take in a painting, and say,
“I could get used to this kind of living.”
Recommended Dishes:
- Foie Gras and Summer Truffles,
Favas, Petit Pois, Zucchini, Tomato Confit
- Fallow Deer with Granny
Smith Apples, Asparagus and Beef Bone Reduction.
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American:
NobHill
MGM Grand Hotel
3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 891-7337
5:30 - 10:30 pm
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The dining
room at NobHill
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For a memorable meal, make sure to stop by Michael
Mina’s NobHill before the end
of your trip. The kitchen caters to a well-traveled
clientele with worldly palates and isn’t
timid about serving gamey meats and other exotic
ingredients, such as quail and sweetbreads,
which otherwise don’t sit well with less
adventurous diners. German-born Executive Chef
Sven Mede, who was named a Rising Star, joined
the kitchen in 2004 after working at Bradley
Ogden. He deftly executes Mina’s
San Francisco cuisine, while putting his own
creative spin on the menu.
Recommended
Dishes:
- Marinated Tuna
with Sea Urchin, Sunchoke and Spicy Cucumber
- Grilled Niman
Ranch Veal Chop with Polenta Cake, Fava
Beans, Caper-Sage Reduction
- Duet of Foie Gras
with Pineapple, Vanilla Tapioca and Cinnamon
Almond Toast
- Roasted Quail
Breast with Kumquats, Purple Peruvian Potato
chips
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Bradley
Ogden
Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 731-7731
(877) 346-4642
Nightly 5:00 - 11:00 pm
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Halibut
Sashimi Cured with Soy, Cilantro,
Lemon Sorbet at Bradley Ogden
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Winner of James Beard Best New Restaurant Award in
2003, Star Chef Bradley Ogden, the consumate San Francisco
Bay Area restaurateur, has led his eponymous restaurant
at Caesars to great acclaim. Although located just
off the casino floor, once you enter, you can barely
remember the jingling slot machines and gaming tables
lurking just a few feet away. Ogden manages to create
an intimate dining experience in this larger-than-life
world of Vegas. There’s dark wood trim, scenic
images of water, and an adventurous menu you’re
more likely to see in New York City or Los Angeles
rather than Las Vegas. Ogden’s team, led by
his son Bryan, a recently named Rising Star, doubles
as wine director and chef and operates an experimental
kitchen. They often spend more money on shipping than
the actual cost of the exquisite ingredients, a necessary
price to pay to transport the season’s best
produce from all over the world in the desert.
Recommended Dishes:
- Halibut Sashimi Cured
with Soy, Cilantro, Lemon Sorbet
- Sweet Corn Soup with Butter
Poached Maine Lobster, Popcorn and Smoked Bacon
- Grilled Ribeye Pavé
with Maytag Blue Cheese, Beets, Swiss Chard, Cepes
and Red Wine Essence
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Aureole
Mandalay Bay Resort and
Casino
3950 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(877) 632-7401
(702) 632-7401
Nightly 6:00 - 10:00 pm
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The dining room at Aureole
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If Charlie Palmer’s fine dining
venue at Mandalay Bay is a temple of food, then the
wine collection is clearly its altar at 42 feet high
with a capacity for 10,000 bottles. Master Sommelier
William Sherer was recently awarded a James Beard Outstanding
Wine Service award. Not to be overshadowed by the impressive
wine list is the pitch-perfect French-Mediterranean-inflected
American cuisine of Chef Vincent Pouessel, a Rising
Star, whose obsession with olive oils and sea salts
does not escape the notice of the truly observant. Pastry
Chef Megan Romano offers a praise-worthy finish with
seasonal desserts like citrus-scented cheese cake with
huckleberry compote.
Recommended Dishes:
- Citrus Grilled Escolar with
Watercress Emulsion and Balsamic Vinegar
- Trio of Ahi Tuna “Mediterranean”
Flavors
- Hand Rolled Potato-Truffle
Gnocchi
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Michael Mina
The Bellagio
3600 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 693-8255
Nightly 5:30 - 10:00 pm
StarChefs’ editorial team came
to Michael Mina’s just four weeks after
Chef Anthony Amoroso was newly installed in the kitchen,
fresh from a tour of duty at Fiamma at MGM.
Amoroso’s talent is undeniable as he executed
Mina’s signature dishes almost flawlessly, as
in the Hamachi Parfait, a delicate balance of textures
and flavors. We look forward to our next dining encounter
there. Young wine phenom Joshua Lieberman has knowledge
and passion beyond belief, a promising protégé
of Raj Parr, managing sommelier for the Michael Mina
restaurants.
Recommended Dishes:
- Hamachi Parfait with Crispy
Rice Cake, Wasabi Tobiko, Shiitake Vinaigrette
- Tartare of Ahi Tuna with
Sesame Oil, Pine Nuts, Garlic and Chiffonade of
Mint
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Simon Kitchen and Bar
Hard Rock Hotel
4455 Paradise Road
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 693-4440
(702) 693-5000
Nightly 6:00 - 11:00 pm
Chef Kerry Simon, a Jean-Georges
Vongerichten protégé, cut his chops
at Prime in the Bellagio before going solo
with his rock-and-roll casual spot in the Hard Rock.
Simon offers amped-up West Coast comfort food, as
in his “California Roll” Pizza –
toppings include celery leaf, shredded cucumber, avocado,
tuna, and lump crab. Pastry Chef Justin Nilsson takes
comforting nostalgic desserts to the max with snow
balls, chocolate chip cookies and milk, and huge tufts
of cotton candy. With its totally unpretentious vibe,
this restaurant is ideal for families and groups.
Recommended Dishes:
- “California Roll”
Pizza
- Hearts of Palm Salad with
Watercress, Orange Vinaigrette with Candied Cashew
Clusters
- Warm Chocolate Pudding
Cake with Vanilla Bean Milk Shake
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Commander’s Palace
Aladdin Resort and Casino
3663 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 892-8272
Brunch: Monday -Thursday 9am – 11 am, Saturday
- Sunday 10:30 am – 2 pm
Lunch: 11:30 - 2:00 pm
Dinner: 5:30 - 10:00 pm daily
The Big Easy’s Vegas offshoot of Commander’s
Palace brings refined Creole cuisine to the desert,
thanks to Chef Carlos Guia, who came over from the
original Commander’s Palace. Guia was
nominated for the James Beard Best Chef in the Southwest
Award this year. The landmark Brennan family restaurant
is reputed for its top-notch service. A lunchtime
tradition here is its 25-cent martini service. There
is a speakeasy casual elegance mood about the five
dining rooms, which are simultaneously romantic and
kid-friendly.
Recommended Dishes:
- Louisiana Alligator “Cordon
Bleu” with Spicy Filé Cream
- Foie Gras Gumbo
- Bread Pudding Soufflé
with Whiskey Cream Sauce
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Tableau
Wynn Las Vegas
3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 770-3463
Breakfast: 8am-10:30am
Lunch: 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner: 5:30pm-10:00pm
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Maine Lobster Salad
at Tableau
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Deep within the sacred area of the Wynn lies Tableau,
a for-hotel-guests-only dining room where Chef Mark
LoRusso (formerly of Aqua in San Francisco
and Las Vegas) tackles breakfast, lunch and dinner
service for the Vegas elite. After graduating from
the Culinary Institute of America, LoRusso moved to
Los Angeles where he eventually worked alongside Star
Chef Thomas Keller. Next, he moved east and worked
under Charlie Palmer at Aureole in New York
City. At Tableau, LoRusso stays the middle
course, but achieves a lovely harmony with clean flavors,
derived from seasonal ingredients that are impeccably
handled.
Recommended Dishes:
- Maine Lobster Salad with
Heirloom Tomatoes, Sweet Melon and Frisee
- Alaskan Wild Salmon and
Summer Corn Pudding with Chanterelles
- Peach Shortcake
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Eclectic:
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Miso-Glazed Chilean
Seabass at Sensi
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Sensi
Bellagio Spa Tower
3600 Las Vegas Boulevard. South (Flamingo Rd.)
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 693-8800
Lunch: 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Dinner: 5:00 - 10:30 pm
The four corners of the world collide at the high-design
concept, Sensi, where world-traveled chef
Martin Heierling, a StarChefs Rising Star, fuses together
ingredients and dishes from Asia, the Middle East,
India, Mediterranean, the US and beyond. The kitchen
is entirely in view at the center of the dining room
and makes for entertaining eating. Heierling’s
greatest successes are in his sinfully rich comfort
food dishes like Mac’ and Cheese with Four Cheeses
and Colorado Lamb T-bone Steak.
Recommended Dishes:
- Miso-Glazed Chilean Seabass
topped with Shiso, Shiitake Mushrooms, Radish Salad
on a bed of Baby Bok Choy with Ginger Dashi Broth
- Colorado Spring Lamb T-bone
Steak
- Mac and Cheese: Homemade
Pasta and Melted 4 Cheeses: Gruyere, Brie, Fontina,
and Parmesan
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Postrio
The Venetian Resort Hotel
and Casino
3355 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 796-1110
Lunch: 11:30 am - 5:00 pm
Dinner: 5:00 - 10:00 pm
Chef John Lagrone, a Wolfgang Puck
protégé, began his career working at
Postrio’s San Fransisco location. In 1992 he
moved to Vegas, and helped open Spago. In
1999, Lagrone helped open Postrio, set amidst
the Venetian’s elegant Canal Shops. Postrio
has the classic white-tablecloth setting, but with
a casual undercurrent. It offers patio dining, but
the “patio” refers to the space along
the indoor canal. While the restaurant bills itself
as contemporary American cuisine, Lagrone’s
menu reflects the eclectic influences of all of Puck’s
restaurants – Italian from Spago, Chinese
from Chinois and the Eastern European foods
of Puck’s roots, such as Hungarian Spicy Beef
Goulash and Pork Wiener Schnitzel. As a 10-year veteran
of Puck’s organization, Lagrone has mastered
his mentor’s culinary approach but at the same
time makes sure his own personality shines through
with standout creations like the Roasted Quail with
Gnocchi. The perfectly roasted quail sits on a stuffing
of sourdough, applewood bacon and mushroom that is
the epitomy of comfort food.
Recommended Dishes:
- Roasted Vermont Farm Quail
with Crisp Pecorino-Potato Gnocchi, Wilted Greens
and Rosemary Jus
- Peking Style Duck
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Seafood :
Restaurant rm
Mandalay Place at Mandalay Bay
3730 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(702) 632-9300
5:00 - 10:00 pm
Restaurant rm, which opened in February of
2005, is Chef Rick Moonen’s Vegas incarnation
of his original New York City establishment. Tucked
away at the end of the casino at Mandalay Bay, the
bi-level restaurant is separated into r bar café,
a casual bistro, and Restaurant rm upstairs.
Sleek and modern, Restaurant rm is designed
to make diners feel as if they are aboard a luxury
yacht with wooden tables and sparkling glass panels
separating the rooms. For guaranteed intimacy, dine
in a half-moon shaped leather booth for two. If you’re
into shellfish, indulge in Moonen’s excellent
scallop dishes, such as his seared diver scallops
served with grilled squid and an herbed clam risotto.
Recommended Dishes:
- Seared Diver Scallops
and Grilled Half-Moon Bay Squid, Clam Fines Herb
Risotto with Lemon Olive Oil Emulsion
- Atlantic Fluke, Braised
Leeks, Fava Beans, Potato Gnocchi and Mustard Caviar
- Mediterranean Mussel Soufflé
with Madras Curry Butter
- Hawaiian Rainbow Runner
Ceviche, Ruby Red Grapefruit, Mint, Yuzu and Cilantro
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Seablue
MGM Grand
3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 891-3486
Nightly 5:30 – 10:00 pm
Seablue’s casual dining
room features an appealing raw bar. The fish is undeniably
fresh, caught in the wild and flown in daily. Chef
Ben Jenkins is no stranger to Las Vegas dining; the
New England Culinary Institute graduate earned his
sea legs at nearby NobHill and Acqua.
Don’t pass up fantastic wine pairings by Gabriele
Whelehan, Seablue’s knowledgeable sommelier.
Recommended Dishes:
- Fire-Roasted Corn and
Lobster Soup
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808
Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 731-7604
Wednesday-Sunday 5:00 - 11:00 pm
Chef Jean-Marie Josselin made a name for himself in
Hawaii. The Aloha state’s area code is the inspiration
for his restaurant’s name in Caesars Palace,
and the Hawaiian influences are undeniable. Servers
wear floral print shirts and the menu, executed nightly
by Chef de Cuisine Wes Coffel, is seafood-heavy, with
standout dishes like miso-charred butterfish and seared
ahi tuna. Coffel takes creative license with the menu,
pairing the tuna with duck prosciutto, an elegant
substitute for Spam, a Hawaiian staple.
Recommended Dishes:
- Miso-Charred Butterfish
with Mochi Rice, Edamame Puree and Crab-Shiitake
Broth
- Seared Ahi with Canellini
Beans, Crispy Duck Prosciutto and a Zinfandel Reduction
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Chinese
Wing Lei
Wynn Las Vegas
3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(888) 320-7110
5:30 - 10:30 pm
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Peking Duck Salad
at Wing Lei
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Wing Lei takes Chinese food
to another level with its exquisite presentation of
approachable food. Chef Richard Chen, a StarChefs
Rising Star, combines traditional cuisine, exotic
ingredients and American techniques to create delectable
dishes, as in the Short Ribs with Saffron Risotto
made with jasmine rice. Chen trained at the Ritz-Carlton
in Chicago under renowned chef Sarah Stegner, who
taught him to rethink culinary traditions. The impact
of Chen’s creative dishes is amplified by the
restaurant’s awe-inspiring surroundings –
the courtyard in the center of Wynn provides a faux
garden that makes guests forget that the space lacks
windows.
Recommended Dishes:
- Peking Duck Salad with
Orange and Truffle Vinaigrette
- Grilled Santa Barbara
Spot Prawns, XO Chili Sauces, Baby Bok Choy
- Braised Short Ribs, Saffron
Jasmine Rice (Risotto), Star Anise Reduction
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Joyful House Chinese Cuisine
4601 Spring Mountain
Rd.
Las Vegas, NV 89102
(702) 889-8881
Daily 11:00 am - 3:00 am
While it’s easy to stay on
The Strip for every meal, after a string of celebrity
chef experiences you might begin to wonder what lies
beyond. Is there culinary civilization off the strip?
Yes, but only to a certain extent, and particularly
when you’re struck by a powerful Chinese food
craving. You could opt for the high-end modern fare
at Wing Lei in the Wynn or you could pop
into Joyful House, a perennial chef favorite,
especially in the wee hours. The menu has an outstanding
list of traditional hot pot dishes. The food is authentic,
satisfying many Chinese tourists with native dishes.
Assistant Manager Philip Cheng is a hospitable host.
Let him order for you and you'll be in for a real
treat.
Recommended Dishes:
- Stewed Pork Leg
- Panfried String Beans
- Fried Chicken
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Thai
Lotus of Siam
Commercial Center Mall
953 East Sahara Avenue
Las Vegas, NV 89104
(702) 735-3033
Lunch: 11:30 am - 2:30 pm Monday-Friday
Dinner: 5:30 pm - 9:30 pm Monday-Thursday, 5:30 pm
- 10:00 pm Friday-Sunday
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Duck Curry at Lotus
of Siam
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Lotus of Siam is proof that
you can’t judge a book by its cover. Located
in a run-down strip mall, the first thing you notice
is the aging interior, and you start to wonder what
kind of experience you’re in for. Lotus of Siam
specializes in Issan-style cuisine from northern Thailand
showcasing spice and heat. Owner and host Bill Chutima
really knows his wines. Let him take care of your
pairings – he bases them on the dish’s
lead spice, not on the protein. Right from the first
dish you are bound to be pleasantly surprised. Have
the appetizer of house-made beef jerky, nua dad deaw
– the bold and tangy flavor is addictive. At
first, the shrimp with garlic dish seems like any
run-of-the-mill Asian shrimp dish, but Chef Saipin
Chutima keeps the shrimp’s shell partially attached,
lightly coats and deep fries them, resulting in an
airy, crisp coat with juicy meat inside. Duck Curry
with its grapes and tomatoes provide contrasting flavors
that make this dish memorable. Chutima's dishes have
been in the family for generations making this a truly
authentic experience.
Recommended Dishes:
- Nua Sao Renu- Sliced Charbroiled
Beef on a bed of Sliced Cabbage, topped with Tamarind
Sauce and Fried Dried Chilies
- Crispy Shrimp with Fried
Garlic
- Duck Curry, Grapes, Cherry
Tomatoes, Mint and Pineapple
- Sticky Rice with Mango
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Italian
Zeffirino
The Venetian Resort Hotel
and Casino
3355 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 414-3500
Lunch: 11:30 am - 4:00 pm
Dinner: 4:00 pm - 12:00 am
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A Semifreddo at
Zeffirino
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Not all of Las Vegas’s Italian
restaurants are alike. Some are actually authentic,
as in Zeffirino, the sister restaurant to
Genova’s renowned eatery. Chef Francesco Schintu
is a master pasta maker who delivers that old-world
food memory that’s so often impossible to recall
this side of the Atlantic. Case in point is his Chocolate
Pasta with Pesto – delicate sheets of fresh
pasta lightly flavored with unsweetened cocoa and
then layered with classic pesto.
Recommended Dishes:
- Chocolate Pasta with Pesto
- Ravioli with Rose Petals,
Sherry, Pea Sprouts and Ricotta Lemon Zest
- Pan-Seared Orata Fillet
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Olives
The Bellagio
3600 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 693-7223
(702) 693-8181
(877) 234-6358
Monday-Thursday 11:00 am - 2:30 pm, 5:00 - 10:30 pm
Friday - Sunday 11:00 am - 10:30 pm
Mega celebrity and Star Chef, Todd
English, hasn’t cloned himself to make his stable
of restaurants around the country perform consistently
well. He relies on his talented chefs de cuisine.
In the case of Olives Las Vegas, English
leans on Rising Star Steven Mannino to deliver Mediterranean
inspired plates teeming with rich risottos, handmade
pastas and creative variations on classics like grilled
Caesar salad. Wines are made accessible by sommelier
Tammie Ruesenberg, who has mastered Mannino’s
menu and identified pitch-perfect pairings for just
about every dish he creates. Make her day and let
her guide you with a flight of wine pairings to compliment
your meal.
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Steakhouses:
Neros Steak and Seafood
Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 731-7560
(702) 731 7731
Nightly 5:00 pm – 11:00 pm
Rising Star Chef Sean Griffin’s
menu is an updated version of the classic steakhouse
lineup. As he explains it, he’s created a fine
dining experience in the guise of a steakhouse. His
Kobe Flatiron steak is flawless, but the standout
component in this dish is the slow-cooked broccoli;
bathed in shallots, olive oil and blue cheese for
two hours, it retains its crunch and color. The foie
gras slider is a decadent mini burger in between brioche
toast for buns with fixin’s of toasted walnuts,
candied ginger pieces and a sweet, tart rhubarb sauce.
The dining room was recently re-designed, and its
sleek, modern, understated vibe, perfectly echo Griffin’s
food.
Recommended Dishes:
- Kobe
Flatiron Steak with Slow Cooked Broccoli
- Artichoke Soup with Peekytoe
Crab, Pine nuts, Mint and Lemon Crème Fraîche
- Seared Foie Gras “Slider,”
Preserved Ginger, Crushed Walnuts and Port Poached
Rhubarb
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SW
Steakhouse
Wynn Las Vegas
3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(888) 320-7110
Nightly 5:30 - 10:00 pm
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Pan Roasted Halibut
at SW Steakhouse
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Despite its steakhouse theme, SW
Steakhouse focuses as much on the produce as on
the meat. Rising Star Chef Eric Klein, who recently
left the restaurant, had a passion for procuring the
best produce he could find, including the most flavorful
heirloom tomatoes we’ve ever tasted. The signature
Maryland Crab Salad with Avocado was excellent, and
we hope that Klein’s successor, Maryland native
David Walzog, will keep it on the menu. Walzog, who
most recently was executive chef at Wynn’s Country
Club Grill, is proficient in traditional steakhouse
fare, owing to his former role as Corporate Executive
Chef at the Glazier Group in New York City, where he
was at the helm of The Steakhouse at Monkey Bar,
Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse, and Strip
House in New York City, New Jersey, and Houston.
He will undoubtedly bring this meaty expertise to bear
on SW Steakhouse’s menu. While we’ll miss
Klein, and we look forward to what Walzog has in store.
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Charlie Palmer Steak
Four Seasons Hotel
3960 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(702) 632-5120
Nightly 5:30 - 10:15 pm
Lounge 5:30 - 12:00 am
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New York Strip Steak
at Charlie Palmer Steak
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Charlie Palmer’s business sense
is solid enough to know that steakhouses still rule
Vegas. Tucked inside the casino-less Four Seasons
Hotel, Charlie Palmer Steak is an attractive
option as far as steakhouses go. It doesn’t
get that middle-brow casino foot traffic. Wine Director
Paul Ellis presides over a noble list and Chef Stephen
Blandino’s bold preparations marry well with
the meaty wines; we loved his marrow butter on New
York strip steak – so rich, it’s almost
over the top, especially when paired with sinful sides
like Three Cheese Potato Gratin and Yukon Gold Potato
Puree.
Recommended Dishes:
- New York Strip Steak with
Marrow Butter
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Prime Steakhouse
Bellagio
3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(877) 793-7111
Nightly 5:30 - 10:00 pm
Just as Daniel Boulud launched a
familiar brasserie in Las Vegas, his fellow four-star
chef-restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten created
Prime in 1998 when the Bellagio opened. The
kitchen has been a springboard for talents like Kerry
Simon and Wylie Dufresne, and now Chef Jonathan Snyder
is at the helm, figuring out creative ways to entice
diners to order beyond the standard steakhouse fare
– the Seared Scallops with Caramelized Peaches
were dynamite. Book in advance and request a table
in front of the water show for a guaranteed romantic
dinner. You can even take dessert and coffee al fresco
for a closer view of the show and to hear the accompanying
soundtrack.
Recommended Dishes:
- Creamed Corn Ravioli,
Tomato Salad, Basil Oil
- Seared Scallops with Caramelized
Peaches, Peach Jus and English Peas
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CraftSteak
MGM Grand Hotel &
Casino
3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 891-5576
(702) 891-7318
Sunday - Friday 5:30 - 10:00 pm
Saturday 5:00 - 10:30 pm
Celebrity chef Tom Colicchio delivered
a knockout with CraftSteak at the MGM, thanks
in large part to chef de cuisine Chris Albrecht, whose
obsessive approach to sourcing ingredients allows
him to treat them minimally and let them sing a cappella
on the table. The concept has been so successful that
Colicchio has opened CraftSteak in New York
City’s trendy meatpacking district with Chef
Albrecht in tow. Try the phenomenal side dishes that
are bursting with flavor, such as the pea medley.
Recommended Dishes:
- Butter Braised Red King
Crab with Saffron and Tarragon
- Kobe Skirt Steak, Beer
Battered Onion Rings, Pan Roasted Corn Kernels
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No Fuss :
Table 34
600 East Warm Springs
Road
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(702) 263-0034
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11:00 am – 3:00
pm
Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 9:30
pm
An extended trip to Vegas will eventually
drive you insane, at which point you’ll be ready
for the comforts of your own home. If you’re
still in town, take a trip out to Henderson and experience
the casual, homey cooking of Chef Wes Kendrick at
Table 34, tucked within a suburban office
park. Daily soups, hearty salads and a killer pork
chop (braised in everything under the sun, including
coffee) are menu staples.
Recommended Dishes:
- House Smoked Salmon on
Potato Galette
- Grilled Pork Chop with
Chipotle Potatoes, Asparagus and Hard Cider Glaze
- Brownie Sundae with Vanilla
Ice Cream, Hot Fudge and Whipped Cream
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In-N-Out Burger
Multiple Locations throughout
NV, CA, AZ
(800) 786-1000
Sunday-Thursday 10:30 am - 1:00 am
Friday-Saturday 10:30 am - 1:30 am
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In 'N' Out Burger
Las Vegas
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For East Coasters, no trip out West
is complete without a visit to In-N-Out,
the preferred burger joint of many an acclaimed chef.
Said to be one of the models of Danny Meyer’s
Shake Shack Burger in New York City, In-N-Out
boasts burgers made of freshly ground beef and fries
that are cut on an old-school mechanical press. The
best burger to order off the secret menu that’s
not such a secret is the Animal Style, which has mustard
cooked into the patty and adds on sautéed onions,
pickles and a sauce reminiscent of Thousand Island.
The 3x3 and 4x4 are just what they seem – massive
burgers stacked with three patties and three slices
of cheese, or four and four, respectively.
Recommended Dishes:
- Animal Style burger
- Double Double
- Chocolate Shake
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NIGHT
LIFE:
Fix Restaurant and Bar
Bellagio
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 693-8400
Sunday-Thursday 5:00 pm - 12:00 am
Friday-Saturday 5:00 pm - 2:00 am
When you’re weary
of gaming at the Bellagio or coming to terms with a
losing streak, you know it’s time for a Fix.
Chef Brian Massie is your man for a quick late-night
bite. Eye-catching presentations of amusing, small plates
are made for sharing, as in smoked salmon poppers served
on a tray of vertical forks. Bar Chef Jose Zepada concocts
lovely seasonal drinks, such as a martini we had with
strawberries and fresh basil. Our favorite was a cucumber
martini, which paired well with Massie’s entertaining
dishes.
Recommended Dishes:
- Salmon Poppers
- Lobster Tacos
- Kobe Beef Sliders
Recommended Drinks:
- Cucumber Martini
- Seasonal Martini
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Pure Nightclub
Ceasars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 731-7873
Tuesday, Friday-Sunday 10:00 pm – 4:00 am
During our editorial visits to Las
Vegas last summer, Pure was considered the hottest
club in town by those in the know. Jam-packed with
scantily-clad bodies, the place to be was on the roof
deck for a glamorous view of the strip. Drinks are
pricey, and it always helps if you know someone who
can get you in (and skip the line), as with all clubs
du jour.
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Tangerine
Treasure Island
3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109
(702) 894-7111
Nightclub and patio nightly 5:00 pm - 4:00 am
Lounge: Monday-Friday 5:00 pm - 4:00 am
Saturday-Sunday 10:00 am - 4:00 am
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The High Roller's
Lounge
at Tangerine
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Tangerine is a club you can actually
enjoy. Chances are, you can get in on your own merits.
Chances are, there’s a little corner of the
place to dance, and chances are, you can get served
at the bar in a timely fashion. The crowd is still
young and hip, but somehow, it feels like less of
a scene. To us, that’s a good thing.
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HOTELS:
Splurge
Worthy:
Mirage
Hotel and Casino
3400 Las Vegas Boulevard
South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 791-7111
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A Penthouse Suite
at The Mirage
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With its lush jungle interior, the
Mirage is a tropical oasis in the desert. Furnishings
in the penthouse suites include rich hues and textured
wall coverings, heavy draperies, marble floors, ornate
oriental rugs, wet bar, sitting area, and dining/meeting
tables. The master suite comes with a generous bathroom
and walk-in closet area. The spacious bathroom includes
a deep Jacuzzi tub and European bidet. High tech features
include a TV that pops up out of the cabinet on command
and electronically controlled drapes. Ideal for family
trips and extended business visits. Penthouse suites
offer panoramic views of the strip and beyond.
Rooms: 66 Penthouse Suites (3044
rooms)
Rates: 1 bedroom $425-$950, 2 bedrooms $625-$1250
What to Do: Spend an evening watching Cirque
du Soleil’s latest show, LOVE, which features
music by The Beatles.
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Pricey but Sane:
MGM
3799 Las Vegas Boulevard
South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(877) 880-0880
In 2005, the MGM opened the West
Wing to add modern amenities such as flat-screen TVs,
Bose products and DVD players to its rooms. The newer
rooms are sleek and modern. MGM’s outdoor pool
is among one of the largest in Vegas, consisting of
five different pools and a long river. While there
is enough room for everyone to enjoy the water, the
only downside is walking in your swimsuit through
the hotel’s massive lobby to get there. It’s
also a hike to get to the gym, but the well-equipped
facility is worth checking out after indulgent meals
at NobHill or Seablue.
Rooms: 5034
Rates: $69.99-$359.99
What to Do: Visit the admission-free African
Lion Habitat, which is home to the descendants of
the original Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer lion, Metro. The
Studio Walk is ideal for those who enjoy more affordable
shopping experiences with themed souvenir and jewelry
stores.
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Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(877) 427-7243
(800) 634-6661
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Caesars Augustus
Towers at night
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The recently built Augustus Tower
at Caesars Palace is fit for a modern-day emperor,
whose preference for luxury is more understated elegance
than gilded lily. The rooms’ color scheme is
chocolate brown and light blue (pleasantly reminiscent
of Café Gray’s décor
in NY) and furnishings are sexy and sleek. Special
touches include huge marble bathrooms, Jacuzzi tubs,
cushy beds, fluffy robes, and a view of the Bellagio’s
water show next door. A flat-screen television in
the bedroom and bathroom should be more than ample
for even the most serious TV addicts. The Augustus
tower rooms will serve as the model for the redecoration
of the other rooms in the hotel, which is great news
for everyone planning to stay at Caesars in the coming
seasons.
Rooms: 949 suites (600+ square feet)
Rates: $140-$460
What to Do: Take a stroll through the luxury-laden
halls of the Forum Shops. With stores such as Versace,
Tourneau and Louis Vuitton to choose from, chances
are you’ll leave with a deep hole in your wallet.
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Mandalay Bay
3950 Las Vegas Boulevard
South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89119
(877) 632-7800
As one of the more recent hotels
built in the city, Mandalay Bay offers elegant accommodations.
Floor-to-ceiling glass windows provide stellar views
of the city, while the neutral décor offers
a soothing reprieve from the dizzying excitement of
the casino. Ample bathrooms offer luxurious touches,
including granite countertops, gold-plated fixtures,
and makeup mirrors. The hotel’s vast pool complex
offers plenty of options, including a wave pool, mini
lagoons and the lazy river, a donut-shaped pool whose
current pulls you around and around.
Rooms: 4330
Rates: $109-$699
What to Do: Simulate a walk on the ocean
floor at the Shark Reef, an aquarium exhibit which
is home to over 12,000 species of marine life and
15 species of shark.
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Wallet
Watching:
Treasure Island
3300 Las Vegas Boulevard
South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109
(702) 894-7111
(800) 944-7444
(800) 288-7206
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A Deluxe Room at
Treasure Island
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With the launch of the TI branding
campaign, Treasure Island has repositioned itself
as a fun, mid-market hotel that appeals to the young,
single crowd. Club Tangerine attracts chic revelers
at night, and as home of the Cirque du Soleil show,
Mystère, it is a center of entertainment for
children and adults alike. Rooms are rather nicely
appointed. The bathrooms are roomy and have been recently
refurbished, with thoughtful amenities like makeup
mirrors and fluffy bath mats. The TI gym facility
is $20 per day which includes access to the sauna
and whirlpool area. The facility is fairly well equipped,
although lacking in elliptical machines and cross-trainers.
Rooms: 2679
Rates: standard deluxe rooms $69-$499, suites
$129-$850
What to Do: Take in TI’s live-action
show, Sirens of TI, nightly at 7, 8:30, 10 and 11:30pm.
Tangerine Lounge and Nightclub.
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Flamingo
3555 Las Vegas Boulevard
South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109-8919
(702) 733-3111
(800) 732-2111
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The Wildlife Sanctuary
at The Flamingo
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The Flamingo was originally a Hilton
Hotel, but is now part of the Harrah’s Entertainment
Group, which includes Caesars, Bally’s, Paris,
and Harrah’s. Located directly across from Caesars
on The Strip, the hotel is a good value and provides
convenient access to both Caesars and the Bellagio,
where some of the best restaurants, shops and entertainment
on the strip are found. The hotel’s late ‘70s
vibe has yet to be updated and retains a bit of that
old-school strip charm. Rooms are bare bones and well
worn with basic amenities, although high-speed Internet
access is available for a fee. The best part of the
hotel is a wild-life area with flamingoes, penguins,
ducks, pheasants and Japanese koi. There is also a
terrific bi-level pool with water slide, tons of shady
spots and misting palms. This hotel is very kid friendly.
Rooms: 3565
Rates: $55-$399
What to Do: Try the egg breakfast at the
diner; then catch some sun poolside.
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Paris
3655 Las Vegas Boulevard
South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109
(702) 967-4111
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The Eiffel Tower
at Paris Las Vegas
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Paris Las Vegas,
which opened in September of 1999, sits undeniably
in one of the best spots on The Strip. Located on
The Strip’s east side across from the Bellagio,
you can get to any destination in 10 minutes. Inside,
Paris’s grand concourse was designed to look
and feel like you are walking through the charming
streets of the City of Lights. You won’t find
a single Starbucks here; instead, fuel up on café
au lait and crepes for breakfast or a leisurely lunch
with wine at one of the cafés.
Rooms: 2916
Rates: $89-$339
What to do: Quell mid-afternoon hunger pangs
by indulging in delicate pastries and a steaming café
au lait from one of the authentic patisseries. Don’t
forget to go for a swim – the rooftop pool is
spacious and set in a beautifully manicured garden.
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