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| what
to eat &
where
to stay
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“The Land of Milk and
Honey”
By Miriam Marcus and Will Blunt
Food, and fresh produce specifically, is so ingrained
in the national culture of Israel that a native-born
Israeli is affectionately referred to as a “sabra,”
derived from the Hebrew word tzabar, the name
of the prickly pear or cactus pear. The thick-skinned
thorny desert fruit when seen from the inside reveals
a sweet and soft flesh – an analogy often associated
with the national character of Israelis.
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Despite being a predominantly Jewish nation, Israel is diverse
and multicultural. Jews both Ashkenazi and Sephardic, Arabs
both Christian and Muslim, the Druze, North Africans, Russian
and Ethiopian immigrants, Bedouins and Palestinians –
all provide for a varying landscape of ethnicities, cultural
traditions, and not suprisingly, cuisines.
The chefs of Israel reflect this diversity, establishing
Israel as one of the world’s most interesting destinations
for the food-savvy individual or the curious culinary professional.
Even France’s highly influential Gault-Millau
restaurant guide, which features very few countries outside
of France, published its first Israeli edition in the late
‘90s.
Hummus (a dip of mashed, seasoned chickpeas
and sesame paste eaten with pita bread), falafel
(fried ball or patty of spiced chickpeas or fava beans, typically
eaten with hummus and tahini in a pita bread), and chicken
schnitzel, though still symbolic of Israel’s
culinary identity, are increasingly taking a back seat to
more progressive, wide-ranging styles of cooking. Some have
taken to calling it “Med-Rim Cuisine.”
Since the mid-1980s, regional specialties from around the
Mediterranean, as well as California, France and Italy, have
contributed to this revolution of food in the biblically prescribed
“land of milk and honey.” A direct result of Israeli
people’s love of travel, cuisines of the Far East, India
and South America have also infiltrated Israeli menus, and
receive a warm welcome.
Wine:
Growing and enjoying wine has been essential to Israel since
biblical times, with references dating as far back as the
book of Genesis. Modern plantings began in the 1870s by Eastern
European Jews who immigrated to Palestine, before Israel was
an autonomous state.
For many years, the reputation of Israeli wine
suffered from its association with the cloyingly sweet American
Manischewitz. However, its direct correlation with Israel
lies only in the fact that Manischewitz is one of the largest
producers of kosher wines in the world. The real challenge
of Israeli wines has been the strict laws of producing kosher
wines, which dampened the quality and creativity of Israeli
winemakers. As such, Israeli winemakers had a long
road to hoe in achieving the respectability that Israel’s
fine wines now enjoy.
The Carmel region in the north of Israel has a climate and
terroir similar to that of Northern California’s Napa
Valley, providing incentive for a series of well-to-do Silicon
Valley investors putting money into the makeover of Israeli
vineyards and wineries in the early ‘90s.
Other boutique wineries are making their mark elsewhere in
the country: the regions of Shomron, the Judean Hills, and
the Upper Galilee all produce fine wines. Further attention
(and money) has been paid to Israeli vineyards in correlation
with its people’s increasingly more sophisticated palates.
And the investments are paying off; Israeli wines are continuously
getting better and they’re even beginning to catch on
with wine connoisseurs beyond Israeli borders.
Background:
Israel is a young nation with millennia of history, culture
and agricultural practices. Political sovereignty, after less
than 60 years, remains a novel experience to the Israeli people;
the degree to which they appreciate their very small land
(roughly the size of the state of New Jersey) is profound.
David Ben-Gurion, elected Israel’s first prime minister
in 1949, challenged the Jewish people to “make the deserts
bloom,” to ensure a prolific future and establish their
strength as a nation. The Israeli people have done more than
that. What began as an agricultural society in desert and
swampy lands has – through cultivation, engineering,
and the invention of drip irrigation – evolved to consistently
generate an extreme abundance of high quality produce, meats
and dairy.
 Contrary
to common belief, the Israel we experienced does not appear
to be paralyzed by the on-going Arab-Israeli conflict. There
is a visible reality to the situation – there are security
guards and soldiers in all public places, and bags and parcels
often get searched upon entry to public venues, such as bus
stations and malls, but the people remain resilient; they
go on living life, performing daily routines – and
enjoying fine cuisine.
The landscape of Israel is as diverse as its cultures, politics
and cuisines; the small area of land is a “degustation”
of the world’s topographies—the mountains of the
Golan Heights and Mount Hermon, the lush greenery of the north,
the rocky hills of Jerusalem and surrounding savannas, the
beaches of the Mediterranean and Red Seas, the infertile but
mineral-rich Dead Sea, the ever-humbling Negev desert of the
south, and the bustling metropolitan cities such as Tel Aviv.
The cliché that “there is something for everyone”
rings true.
Getting Around:
Renting a car is a great way to get around Israel, particularly
if you have culinary pursuits in mind. Nearly all road signs
are printed in Hebrew, English and Arabic. The best spots
are not always in the cities, so driving is often easier than
taking multiple buses or trains to arrive at your destination.
Use caution when mapping out your route. Pick roads wisely,
paying attention to the news for information on safe and unsafe
areas to travel.
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JERUSALEM
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| The
Jewish Quarter
of the Old City |
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Arguably the most spiritual city in the world,
Jerusalem is home to three of the world’s
major religions—Judaism, Christianity and
Islam—and their most revered sites, respectively.
The 3,000-year-old city, paved in gleaming white
Jerusalem stone, hosts a number of culinary destinations
to satiate the appetite you will inevitably build
while perusing the city’s many neighborhoods,
museums, and holy sites.
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| View
of the Kotel and the Dome of the Rock
in Jerusalem |
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RESTAURANTS:
Chakra
18 Shlomtzion
Jerusalem
972. (0)2.625.2733
Chef Ilan Garousi serves wide-ranging, bistro-style
ethnic cuisine, taking influence from locations as varied
as Morocco, Uzbekistan and Thailand. As you approach
the restaurant, the outside of Chakra is totally
unassuming. It is far from the touristy areas of Jerusalem
and is considered a high-end local hangout. It's small,
smoky, lit by a nostalgic crystal chandelier, and you might
feel like you’re in a small neighborhood in Paris.
The bar is well stocked with spirits and a thoughtful selection
of whiskeys. Try the Dashpera, a goulash-like
Uzbekistani soup made of a beef and tomato base with meat
dumplings. Hatsilim Baladi im Labaneh, or Roasted
Village Eggplant with Goat’s Yogurt, is sweet
without the high acidity that is a common pitfall in eggplant
dishes. Fresh sardines are marinated in—and accented
by—fresh sage and bay leaves. Not overly complicated,
Chef Garousi’s menu allows his fresh ingredients to
shine.
- Recommended Dishes:
Dashpera
Lamb Kufta Kebab
Sole in Thyme Butter Baked with Tomatoes
Fresh Sardines in Sage and Bay Leaves
Roasted Village Eggplant with Goat’s Yogurt
- Hours:
Dinner: Sunday-Thursday, 7:00 pm-3:30
am; Friday, 8:00 pm-3:30 am
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Cavalier
Restaurant & Bar
1 Ben-Sira Street
Jerusalem 94181
972. (0)2.624.2945
“Sabra” Chef
Didi Benarosh learned to cook in France at
Guide Michelin-rated restaurants, and apprenticed
at Nobu in New York City. He comes
from a Moroccan family and he prepares straightforward
European-style food with a Mediterranean/North African
twist. The restaurant maintains a lightly
formal but easygoing atmosphere. The service is good
and the wine list is substantial. Reservations are
essential. The bar stays open until the last customer
leaves, often hours after the kitchen has closed.
- Recommended Dishes:
Filet of Veal in Wine and Shallot Sauce
Chocolate Volcano
- Hours:
Lunch: Daily, 12:00 pm-3:30 pm
Dinner: Daily, 6:30 pm-12:00 am
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Arcadia
10 Agrippas Street, Jerusalem
972. (0)2.624.9138
This is a hidden, hard-to-find place, so call for
detailed directions and/or ask your taxi driver to
walk you through the maze of narrow alleyways to get
there. Arcadia, which received a
very favorable rating in the Gault-Milleu,
is housed in an old, stone-arched building, and has
a distinct Mediterranean feel of Greek stucco and
vaulted ceilings. The Iraqi-born chef, Ezra
Kedem, who studied in the US and France,
is a prime example of the mix of cultures within Israeli
society. His imaginative, contemporary cuisine is
prepared mainly with local ingredients, usually from
no farther than thirty miles away, showcasing the
wealth of Israeli produce. The menu is vegetable-intensive
and meat is often cleverly used merely as a compliment.
Try the smooth and rich artichoke soup with
nutty walnut accents or the perfectly undercooked
house-made pumpkin ravioli with a sage and
currant-citrus sauce.
- Recommended Dishes:
Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Walnuts
Pumpkin Ravioli in Sage Oil Sauce with Black Sesame
Seeds
Baby Lamb Cannelloni on Warm Wild Spinach Salad
- Hours:
Lunch: Monday-Friday, 12:30 pm-3:00
pm
Dinner: Monday-Friday, 7:00 pm-10:30
pm; Saturday, 1:00 pm- 11:30 pm
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Abu Shukri
63 Al Wad Road, Near Damascus Gate in the Muslim Quarter
of the Old City
Jerusalem
972. (0)2.627.1538
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| The
shuk, or market,
in the Arab Quarter
of The Old City |
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For a taste of authentic, old-school Israeli dining,
visit what many consider to be the best hummus
and falafel joint in Israel. It’s inexpensive
but make sure you have cash on hand as they do not
accept credit cards. Dip your warm pita (freshly baked
next door and included in the price) in hummus with
a healthy-sized garnish of whole chickpeas and olive
oil, or black beans, or fuul (roasted pine
nuts). Chickpeas are mashed by hand at Abu Shukri,
as they have been for decades, to make the spicy falafel
balls. Fill your pita with a full sampling of falafel,
tahini (pronounced ta’hinah), hummus,
and Israeli/Arabic salad (diced tomato and cucumber
in fresh lemon juice, olive oil, salt, pepper and
za’atar/hyssop spice). End your meal with a
steaming cup of Nana tea—the Israeli
answer to spearmint—complete with fresh
nana leaves in your glass. Note: If you have trouble
navigating your way around the Old City, simply ask
any local who will gladly offer directions to the
well-known Abu Shukri.
- Recommended Dishes:
Falafel in pita, with hummus and Israeli
salad
Nana Tea
- Hours:
Lunch: Daily, 8:00 am-4:30 pm;
later on Saturday
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Magic
Fruit Juice
Corner of Ben-Yehudah Street and King George Street
Jerusalem
There are a number of places to get a refreshing
juice on the midrachov, the open-air pedestrian
mall typically referred to by its main street, Ben
Yehudah. Magic Fruit Juice at the top of
the hill is the best for a cup of any combination
of fresh fruit and vegetable juices squeezed to order.
Choose among fig, mango, orange, watermelon, guava,
beet, peach, carrot and strawberry, to name just a
few.
- Hours:
Sunday-Thursday, 8:00 am- 10:00 pm; Friday, 8:00
am-Sunset
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| Abundance
of fresh fruit
and nuts for sale
at Machaneh Yehudah |
|
Machaneh
Yehudah
Stroll through the open-air
market, or shuk, of Machaneh Yehudah,
west of the city center, between Jaffa Road and Agrippas
Street, to view an eye-popping abundance of
fresh produce, meats, fish, breads, pastries and baked
goods. The shuk – a lively
farmer’s market – is an exciting destination
for any foodie. An attractive exhibition of the range
and quality of Israeli produce, this market is far
from boutique; it’s a vibrant food center that
local chefs and home cooks rely upon daily. Familiar
Western fruits and vegetables are side by side with
the exotic – gargantuan radishes, huge fresh
piles of parsley, celery and oranges share cart space
with pomegranates, persimmons, pumellos (shaddocks),
“Abraham’s fruit" (sour plums) and
Lebanese artichokes.
- Hours:
Sunday-Thursday, 8:00 am-8:00 pm; Friday, 8:00 am-Sundown
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Mo'adoniyot
Abu-dod
41 Etz Ha’Hayim Street
Shuk Machaneh Yehudah
Jerusalem
972.(0)2.624.2049
While marveling at the plentiful display
in Machaneh Yehudah, step into Mo’adoniyot
Abu-dod for a fine assortment of cheeses,
olive oils and pickled fish.
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Nissan's
119 Jaffa Street
Jerusalem
972.(0)2.625.2008
As you walk out of the shuk, exit onto Jaffa
Street. Turn into this unassuming spice retailer
that supplies dried goods of all kinds and pulls a
great espresso. Try their café
hafukh, translated to “upside
down coffee.” This Israeli colloquialism for
cappuccino got its name because coffee – espresso,
in this case – is added to the milk instead
of the other way around.
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| A Butcher
shop in
Machaneh Yehudah |
|
Evo
5 Shamay Street
Jerusalem
972.(0)2.623.4676
Head east on Jaffa Road from Machaneh Yehudah to
Evo. Avi Ben-David is the owner of this butcher
shop and international delicatessen, where
“it’s all about the quality of the meat
and the product.” He carries a wide selection
of cured meats and salamis, seafood, cheeses and other
dairy products from Europe. His high quality meat
is sold in cuts made for steaks, stews, roasts and
carpaccios.
- Recommended Dishes:
Goose liver pate with port or cognac
- Hours:
Sunday-Thursday, 9:00 am-7:00 pm; Friday, 9:00 am-4:00
pm
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HOTELS:
|
| The Inbal
Hotel lobby
in Jerusalem |
|
Inbal
Jerusalem Hotel
Liberty Bell Park
3 Jabotinsky Street
Jerusalem 92145
972.(0)2.675.6666
www.inbalhotel.com
Centrally located in Jerusalem, the hotel is relatively
modern with a traditional feel from the use of natural
white Jerusalem stone throughout the lobby. There
is a coffee shop in the flowery interior courtyard
of the building and an Italian dairy restaurant adjacent
to the lobby. Rooms are available with scenic
views of the Old City.
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Rooms:
294
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Rates:
$230-$540, up to $1,500
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Featured
Amenities: Indoor/outdoor pools, sauna,
jacuzzi, beauty salon, massage and health spa,
sports facilities, hi-speed/wireless internet
in guest rooms
-
What
to Do: Spend time at the national Israel
Museum, and at Yad Vashem, the Holocaust museum.
|
King David
Hotel
23 King David Street
Jerusalem
For
reservations click here.
|
| The King
David Hotel
in Jerusalem |
|
Arguably the most famous and elegant hotel in Israel,
this flagship of the ubiquitous Dan Hotels Group hotels
hosts many world leaders and celebrities. Built in
1931 with locally quarried pink sandstone, the hotel
is centrally located within walking distance
of the new and old districts of Jerusalem;
when reserving a room, you can opt for either view.
The building is surrounded by expansive private gardens.
Guest rooms are furnished with king-size beds and
hi-speed Internet access. There are a number of dining
options within the hotel: La Regence Grill Room
serves meat and Middle Eastern fare, the King’s
Garden Restaurant serves dairy, fish and vegetarian
options, and The Oriental Bar, open only
in the evenings, boasts an impressive Scotch selection
and serves small plates.
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Rooms:
237
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Rates:
$326-$426, and up
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Featured
Amenities: A/C, minibar, baby crib, laundry
services, free parking, sports facilities, business
center, in-room fax/modem/PC connection
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What
to Do: Taking a walking tour of the nearby
Old City to view religious sites of Christianity,
Islam and Judaism.
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BETWEEN
JERUSALEM AND TEL AVIV
WINERY:
 Domaine
du Castel
Ramat Raziel
Haute Judee 90974
972.(0)2.534.2249
www.castel.co.il
Call ahead and make an appointment to visit the Domaine
du Castel winery, started in 1992 by self-taught
Eli G. Ben Zaken in a town called Ramat Raziel in
the Judean Hills, just 17 km west of Jerusalem.
Grapes here are planted at 700 meters above sea level,
on hillsides and in deep valleys, enjoying cool temperatures
and short hours of sunshine for good maturation. A
leading Israeli boutique winery, Castel produces
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and a few
other varietals, such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet
Franc—all suited for modest aging, peaking a
few years after release.
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|
| Ancient
Crusader
Fortress in Caesarea |
|
CAESAREA
The dramatic setting of King Herod’s first-century
city, this very-much-in-tact archaeological
beach town, ranks up with the best Roman ruins to
be seen anywhere in the world. The recently
renovated visitor’s center is helpful, and in
general, this state-run national site is surprisingly
un-institutional. The ruins are fairly isolated,
but just off the main highway.
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| Ancient
Roman Aqueduct
on the beach in Caesarea |
|
Especially notable are the acoustics in the
Ancient Theatre where concerts are still
held regularly. In the “village” there
are plenty of artist studios where you can shop, and
the restaurants themselves are worth a visit. Visit
this site in the late afternoon or early evening to
watch the sunset over the Mediterranean Sea.
RESTAURANTS:
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| Helena
Restaurant
at Caesarea Harbor |
|
Helena
Helena Ben Amal
Old port of Caesarea
972.(0)4.610.1018
Chef Amos Sion is a “sabra,”
and received formal culinary training at the
Tadmor Hotel School in Herzliya, a small
town outside of Tel Aviv. The service at this picturesque
and exclusive fish restaurant is impressive, and the
food is modestly priced. Helena offers a
variety of Middle-Eastern cuisine, highlighting fresh
fish and seafood, meats, focaccias, and homemade ice
creams. Enjoy Chef Sion’s tasting menu
as you dine on the outdoor waterfront patio.
- Recommended Dish:
Whole Grilled Fish
- Hours:
Daily, 12:00 pm-Midnight
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SHOMRON
WINE REGION
The largest wine growing region,
Shomron, stretches from Israel’s eastern and
western borders, north of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv,
and south of the Galilee. This region has heavy, limey
soil and typical Mediterranean weather; the rainy
season is from October to March, and the summers are
very warm and almost totally dry. With breezes off
the Mediterranean Sea, the Carmel Mountain range provides
an ideal climate for growing grapes. The region
receives more grapes at harvest than any other in
the country.
WINERY:
Carmel
Winery
P.O. Box 2
25 HaCarmel Street
Rishon Le’Zion 75100
972.(0)3.948.8851/54
www.carmelwines.co.il
Carmel has vineyards in several regions throughout
Israel, but none as prolific as those around the town
of Zichron Ya’acov in the Shomron region in
northern Israel. Carmel is the first, oldest
and largest winery in Israel, founded in 1882 by Baron
Edmond De Rothschild. Carmel wines are exported
to over 50 countries, and have won numerous international
awards.
Saslove
Winery
Kibbutz Eyal, near the town of Kohav Yair
972.(0)9.749.2697
www.saslove.com/pub/home.htm
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| Saslove
Winery
on Kibbutz Eyal |
|
Built in Kibbutz Eyal in 1998 by Canadian-born Barry
Saslove, this is a young, up-and-coming winery.
Visitors receive a tour of the winery, a selection
of wines for tasting, and explanations about wine
pairings for food. A new vineyard was planted recently
in Kaditah in the upper Galilee, providing a venue
for the Saslove family to showcase their organic
growing techniques. Wines can be purchased
directly from the winery.
- Vineyard Visiting Hours:
Saturday, 11:00 am-4:00 pm; Sunday –
Friday, call in advance to make an appointment
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NAZARETH
Spending any significant amount of time in the safe
but charmless Nazareth, a city unkind to the
eyes, is not highly recommended. You might
go for religious purposes—it is the
birthplace of Jesus Christ—but be aware
that this center of Arab life in the southern Galilee
is an uncompromising display of poverty found in many
of the Arab towns and cities throughout Israel. Many
choose to visit the religious sites here via the numerous
Christian package tours, however they are disappointingly
unauthentic; you are better off in your car or with
a private guide.
RESTAURANTS:
Diana
51 Paulus the Sixth Road
Nazareth
972.(0)4.656.8203
The best alternative to the myriad cookie-cutter
falafel and shawarma stands in Nazareth is Arab
Chef Dokhol Safadi’s highly authentic Diana.
The food here is the epitome of Middle Eastern cuisine,
with a wide array of mezze dishes:
various salads, hummuses, and grilled meats. Chef
Safadi uses a special knife, called a Seekh
in Arabic, similar to a long and sharp skewer, to
cut the lamb for kebabs and shishlick—marinated
and grilled lamb medallions. Don’t be fooled
by the dingy entrance and atmosphere of Diana;
the breads are baked daily in a brick oven, the food
is fresh, and the service is excellent.
- Recommended Dish:
Lamb Kebabs
- Hours:
Daily, 12:00 pm-12:00 am
|
TSFAT
(SAFED)
On one of the highest peaks in Israel, Mt. Kena’an,
the ancient city of Tsfat upholds centuries of Kabalistic
mysticism. The name Tsfat can be
translated to either “vantage point” or
“anticipation,” because of its panoramic
views or because of the city’s inhabitants’
steadfast expectation of the arrival of the Messiah.
This tranquil city is the center for Jewish
tradition and spirituality in Israel. It’s
inevitable that you will get lost in the charming
alleyways and winding streets of the artisan
colony, lined with artists’ shops,
synagogues, yeshivas (religious schools),
stone buildings and turquoise-colored doorways. Tsfat’s
mysticism is paired with glorious natural surroundings
of lush greenery of the Galilean Hills. The cuisine
of Tsfat, however, is unfortunately not as well paired.
Spend a night in Tsfat, preferably during
the Sabbath—the Jewish day of rest,
beginning at sundown on Friday and ending after sundown
on Saturday—to get a real taste for this charming
city. If you’re walking around on a Friday afternoon,
chances are likely that a family will invite you in
to share their Sabbath meal, a great way to rest and
revel in the spirituality that is Tsfat.
RESTAURANTS:
Muscat
At the Mizpe Hayamim Resort Hotel
P.O. Box 27, Rosh Pina 12000
972.(0)4.699.4555, extension 537
If you’re not lucky enough to get invited into
someone’s home for a meal while in Tsfat, take
a short drive to Muscat at Mizpe
Hayamim Resort Hotel in the town of Rosh
Pina. Chef Chaim Tibi grills meats and fish
in a tabun oven over a wood fire open flame,
paired with seasonal fresh herbs,
produce and dairy products grown on the hotel’s
organic farm. Dine at this romantically intimate
restaurant while enjoying a view of the Upper Galilee.
Reservations are necessary.
- Recommended Dishes:
Liver and Zucchini Tart with Lamb Sauce
Herbed Mushrooms from the Charcoal Grill with Smoked
Goose
Grilled Veal Neck Part with Marrowbone Sauce
Organic Duck in Pomegranate Caramel Sauce and Five
Passion Spices
“Magholl” Dates filled with Pistachios
and Peanuts, Silan Sauce, Rum-Raisin Ice Cream
- Hours:
Dinner: Monday-Friday, 6:00 pm-10:30
pm; Saturday, 1:00 pm-10:30 pm
|
HOTELS:
Mizpe
Hayamim Resort Hotel and Health Farm
P.O. Box 27
Rosh Pina 12000
972.(0)4.699.4555
www.mizpe-hayamim.com
|
| The Farm
at Mizpe Hayamim |
|
A member of the Relais & Chateaux
Association, Hotel Mizpe Hayamim was originally founded
as a health center, and now includes
a hotel, spa, dairy farm, organic garden and
private vineyard. Make sure to take a tour
around the hotel’s farm, taking in serene views
of the Hula Valley, the Golan Heights
and the Sea of Galilee. It is not a kibbutz—a
collective community based on the principle of joint
ownership of property, equality and cooperation of
production, consumption and education—but there
is a sense of completeness and of a self-sufficient
eco-system within the 37 acres of farm, dairy, abundant
fruit and nut groves, and walking paths that surround
this “Edenic” hotel and spa. Do not sleep
through breakfast; the dining room serves breakfast
between 7:30 and 10:00 am. It’s an ideal opportunity
to experience the bounty of Israeli breakfasts, famous
for the freshest of fruits and vegetables, cheeses,
eggs and juices.
-
Rooms:
83
-
Rates:
828-2193 nis (New Israeli Shekel) Click
here for currency converter.
-
Featured
Amenities: Spa Center, fitness room,
farm shop/wine store, organic farm and dairy,
bakery, art gallery, library-coffee shop, pool,
Muscat Restaurant
-
What
to Do: Take a day trip to the Golan Heights
where you can hike and see gorgeous views of Lebanon
and Mt. Hermon to the north, the Syrian plains
to the east, the Jordan River to the south, and
the Sea of Galilee to the west. Alternatively,
stroll the tranquil, beautiful hotel grounds,
shop at the farm store and arts and crafts gallery,
and take in a full range of spa treatments, including
massages, facials and Dead Sea mud packs.
|
Ruth Rimonim
Hotel
Tel Zayin Street
The Artist Colony, Tsfat 13110
972.(0)4.699.4666
www.Rimonim.com
This hotel, a reconstructed 17th century inn, is
recommended not
|
| The Bread
and Fish Church |
|
for its rooms or amenities, but for its location
and views. Ruth Rimonim is made up of big, long, stale,
outdated hallways—almost institutional—like
an old dormitory, but is located on the side of a
hill overlooking the breathtaking landscape of Mount
Meron. The hotel is within walking distance of the
artisan colony, old synagogues, various historical
sites, and the touristy but beautiful Safed Candle
factory.
-
Rooms:
81
-
Rates:
600-1000 nis (New Israeli Shekels). Click
here for currency converter.
-
Included:
A/C, mini bar, cable television, in-room
telephone, Israeli breakfast buffet
-
Featured
Amenities: Outdoor swimming pool, “health
spa,” laundry, restaurant
-
What
to Do: Take a day trip to the Bread
and Fish Church in Tabha, a remote, awe-inspiring
spot with incredible views of the Sea of Galilee
at sunset. Admission is free, and the church is
open Monday-Saturday, 8:00 am-6:00 pm; Sunday,
10:00 am-5:00 pm.
|
TEL AVIV -
JAFFA
|
| Tel Aviv,
Israel at night |
|
In the main shopping district of Tel Aviv, there are
signs welcoming and thanking European and American tourists
for visiting – both a testament to Israeli standards
of hospitality and a sign of the challenges businesses
face because of the threat of terrorism. Tel Aviv is
far and away the most cosmopolitan and richest city
in Israel. Accordingly, Israel’s largest consumer
base has enough money to support an ambitious
and eclectic mix of chefs and fine dining establishments.
Tel Aviv sits on the eastern coast of the
Mediterranean Sea, a nutrient-poor body of
water. Contrary to popular belief, the seemingly prolific
azure-colored water is a sign of a lack of
life in the water. Until the Suez Canal was opened
to traffic in 1869, bridging the waterway between
the Mediterranean and Red Seas, there had been even
less sea bounty for cooking.
RESTAURANTS:
Mul Yam
Tel Aviv Port
972.(0)3.546.9920
This restaurant is reminiscent of a casual San Francisco
Bay Area café. Its presentation is fairly modest.
Fish tanks are visible to the patrons and cookbooks
line the wall. Chef Yoram Nitzan “knows
his fish.” Mul Yam is perhaps
the best restaurant in Israel with the freshest and
finest seafood selection. The irony, however, is that
all the fish is imported, highlighting the ambition
and tenacity of this young chef. Mul
Yam is the only restaurant outside
of Europe to be included in The Purple Guide, and
was chosen as Gault-Millau restaurant of the year.
- Recommended Dishes:
Sea Flavors (Lobster, Scampi, Shrimp and
Scallops)
Red Mullet on Black Pasta with Olives
Grouper with Smoked Eggplant Puree
Brandied Cream of Crabs
Tiger Shrimp with Jerusalem Artichoke and Lobster
Stock
- Hours:
Lunch: Daily, 12:30 pm-5:00 pm
Dinner: Daily, 7:30 pm-12:00 am
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Raphael
Resto-Bistro
87 Ha’yarkon Street, next to the Dan Tel Aviv
Hotel
Tel Aviv 63432
972.(0)3.522.6464
This restaurant is in a luxury hotel, and serves
bistro fare focusing on local ingredients with a distinctive
French and Moroccan influence. Chef Raphael
Cohen is a native of Tel Aviv but comes from a Moroccan
Sephardic family, a fact highly evident in
his ever-shifting menu. The main dining room is modern
and upscale but casual with a European sensibility,
adorned by brass and orange colors with ornamented
tables and a well-framed view of the Mediterranean.
Attached to the restaurant is Hamara
Bar, a bar/lounge where small
portioned mezze dishes are served. On Friday
afternoons from noon to 4pm, Hamara Bar sets
up a small Oriental pre-Sabbath meal, blending
flavors and traditions from South Africa, Morocco,
Israel, Palestine, and Turkey. Pillows are
arranged around the lounge, providing an intimate
middle-eastern setting for this affair. The first
course is served family-style, and then Chef Cohen
recommends ordering a tasting menu beginning with
fresh sardines stuffed with grouper and coriander
with dried pepper, garlic, Jerusalem artichoke and
Moroccan paprika. Sample Chef Cohen’s mastery
of offal – his Curried Spleen
or Baked Bone Marrow with Ragout of Duck Gizzard
are examples of the culinary sophistication of this
young chef. Do not miss the featured Rosetta Cocktail
of anise, almond milk and mint. Reservations are highly
recommended.
- Recommended Dishes:
Lamb Paprika Spleen and Celery
Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Black Osetra Caviar
Baked Bone Marrow with Ragout of Duck Gizzard
Veal Sweetbreads with Mediterranean Spice
Rosetta Cocktail
- Hours:
Lunch: Daily, 12:00 pm-3:30 pm
Dinner: Daily, 7:00 pm-11:00 pm
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Yo'ezer
Wine Bar
2 Yo'ezer Aish Habira Street (near the Clock’s
Square)
Jaffa, Israel
972.(0)3.6839115
www.rest.co.il/yoezer
The oldest port and historic gateway to Israel, Jaffa,
pronounced “Yaffo” in Hebrew,
hosts the romantic Yo'ezer Wine Bar. “Sabra”
Chef Eytan Zanzuri serves standard
French-inspired cuisine prepared with local Israeli
ingredients, and complimented by arguably the most
exhaustive wine selection in the country. The
location and atmosphere of this spot are what makes
it so special. Hidden away from the street,
the candlelit restaurant is in an old Arabic stone
house that looks like a cellar, with thick walls,
vaulted ceilings and arched doorways. Try Chef Zanzuri’s
signature “40 Eggs Pasta” with Bottarga,
a traditional Turkish and Portuguese delicacy.
- Recommended Dishes:
“40 Eggs Pasta” with Bottarga
Crudo of Veal Tartar with Truffles
- Hours:
Sunday-Thursday, 12:30 pm-1:00 am; Friday-Saturday,
11:00 am-1:00 am
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Dixie Grill
Bar
120 Igal Alon
Tel Aviv
972.(0)3.696.6123
Owned by Haim Cohen, Israel’s original
“star chef” and TV personality on the
show “Garlic, Pepper and Olive Oil,”
this is a well executed American restaurant –
a burger joint of sorts with the atmosphere of French
brasserie. It serves everything from mussels and wings
to pasta, burgers, sandwiches and breakfast. A favorite
of students and a taste of home for American tourists,
Dixie is open 24 hours a day, and serves
more authentically American food than you
would ever expect to find in Israel.
- Hours:
Daily, open 24 hours
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CAFÉS:
Soidelson
Café
252 Ben Yehudah
Tel Aviv
972.(0)3.544.4154
Tel Aviv’s version of SoHo is the area
around Allenby, Ha’Yarkon, Ben Yehudah and Nahalat
Binyamin Streets. As you stroll around this
neighborhood full of cafés, trendy bars, street
food stalls, produce merchants, and art vendors –
a nice place to stop towards the end of Ben Yehudah
Street is Soidelson Café to sample their well-crafted
cookies and cakes, and sip a hot cup of “café
hafukh.”
- Hours:
Daily, 7:30 am-Midnight
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The Nest
7 Yeremiau
Tel Aviv
972.(0)3.546.1998
www.nest.co.il
A great place to go online, this is a pub
and Internet café with live music and a beer
selection of close to 100 different brews from countries
all over the world. It’s very close
to Tel Aviv’s warehouse/nightclub area around
Allenby and Ha’Yarkon Streets. The menu is a
standard Israeli mix of salads, small plates, soups,
chicken and some shrimp dishes.
- Hours:
Daily, 8:00 pm-2:00 am
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Loop Noodles
177 Ben Yehudah Street
Tel Aviv
972.(0)3.544.9833
Another spot on Ben Yehudah Street, just one
block east of the tayelet (beach promenade),
is this friendly noodle shop. The
food is unpretentious, simple, and a relatively authentic
version of far-eastern cuisine. It is reasonably priced
and take-out is also an option.
- Hours:
Daily, 12:00 pm-12:00 am
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HOTELS:
Dan Tel
Aviv Hotel
99 Hayarkon Street
Tel Aviv, Israel 63432
972.(0)3.520.2552
A member of the Dan Hotels Group, this large hotel
sits across the street from the main beach, on the
tayelet/promenade. The hotel is centrally
located, and the spa is newly renovated. All
suites have sea views.
- Rooms: 286
- Rates:
$208-2,000
Featured Amenities: Indoor/outdoor
swimming pool, fitness center, newly renovated spa,
laundry/dry cleaning service, childcare, business
center, barber/hairstylist
What to Do: Lounge poolside, or
walk across the street to the (often crowded) beach.
Eat at Raphael Resto-Bistro next door.
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