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what
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A CULINARY LOVER'S GUIDE TO DALLAS
By Tejal Rao and Antoinette Bruno
August 2007
There’s a wholesale farmers market in downtown Dallas but it’s not uncommon to find the produce section annexed by corporate boxes of year–round Driscolls strawberries. Think of it as a symbol for the new Dallas dining scene: national chains are present but there’s also a strong, growing local food culture. Dallas consumers are more food savvy than ever, and, because this scene is relatively young, chefs doing things well stand out immediately.
Tracy Miller, chef/owner of LOCAL, thrives on the creative pressure to change seasonally within Dallas’ boundaries. When her produce suppliers come up with a seasonal item that makes sense, she’ll immediately incorporate it into a weekly special, and she changes her seasonal menu every 3 to 4 months. When Miller gets a hankering for something special or exotic that she can’t order from one of her local produce guys, she navigates the challenge by making a trip to Whole Foods or Central Market. And Miller isn’t the only well–respected female chef/owner successfully part of the scene in Dallas — Sharon Hage of York Street, with her crew of three, manages to both fiercely commit to local and seasonal product and pack a full house nearly every night, despite her out–of–the–way location — proving that Dallas diners are willing to make the trip for a good meal.
Miller does her own PR (meaning word of mouth alone draws diners to the restaurant) and finds her East Dallas neighborhood to be as much a draw as it is an obstacle. After all, it wasn’t so long ago that Deep Ellum was a crooked mouthful of red–light stores with domino parlors stuck in its teeth — the romantic, blues–y image lingers, attracting some diners and deterring others. The neighborhood has since been recovered and renovated by the Deep Ellum Plan of the 80s — a citywide effort to preserve the neighborhood’s artistic and urban integrity. LOCAL is now a destination restaurant, embracing the vibe and mirroring Ellum’s industrial–chic design with original exposed brick, ultra–modern furniture, and a focus on good music.
Though Dallas has the reputation of retreating to its suburbs, lately the city’s been busy promoting sales of new luxury condos and apartments downtown to attract residents and reinvent the neighborhood’s vibe. David Gilbert is aware of how positive this influx will be for downtown restaurants — as the executive chef of Luqa on Main Street, surrounded by luxury hotels with transient business guests (that make up 60% of his clientele), Gilbert is excited to grow his local clientele. “I grew up here, and when I was a kid you did not go downtown for dinner. In the past three years they’ve really cleaned things up so come on downtown! It’s not bad anymore!”
In fact, it’s great. 3 weeks of tastings around the city uncovered a thriving underground of committed chefs who’ve run the Dallas obstacle course and come out on the other end, far away from anonymous, overpriced chophouses. Anthony Bombaci of Nana keeps standards extraordinarily high, bringing a Spanish flair for the avant garde and proving that Dallas isn’t what it used to be. As more and more Dallas diners unshackle themselves from restaurant chains they’re finding that there’s nothing monochromatic about the city’s culinary palette these days — from tiny chef-owned bistros to modern Southwestern fine dining — the new Dallas dining scene is led by a diverse and sophisticated bunch.
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RESTAURANTS
casual
Amuse
1326 South Lamar Street
Dallas, TX 75215
214–428–7300
Mon–Wed 11am–10pm
Thurs–Sat 11am–2am
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Chef Doug Brown’s Salmon Cone Amuses at Amuse
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Restaurateurs Doug Brown and Jason Foss’ of Dallas catering company “Beyond the Box” have teamed up again to create a hip, casual bistro that serves simple French-inspired comfort food like a goat cheese tart with roasted tomatoes, basil, and olive oil. Start with Brown’s Keller–like tartare cones
that arrive in an ultra–modern black plastic holder and finish with Foss– S’more Fondue: light graham crackers with a side of bruleed marshmallow and melted chocolate.
Recommended Dishes
- Salmon Cones
- Goat Cheese Tart with Roasted Tomatoes
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Fuse
1512 Commerce Street
Dallas, TX 75201
214 742 3873
Tue–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm; 5pm–11pm
Sun 11am–2:30pm; 5pm–11pm
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Blaine Staniford’s Cauliflower Panna Cotta at Fuse
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Funky “Tex-Asian” decor and cuisine in downtown Dallas is a colorful celebration of fusion, Texas style. Painted cowboy boots cover the lime green walls and surf and turf is taken to the extreme. Chef Blaine Staniford is young and daring with dishes like a cauliflower panna cotta drizzled with bright yellow curry oil, topped with pork scratchins'.
Recommended Dish
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Kitchen 1924
1924 Abrams Road
Dallas, TX 75214
214–821–1924
Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; 5:30pm–10pm
Sat 11am–3pm; 5:30pm–10pm
Go to Kitchen 1924 for a casual and delicious American bistro experience. Chef Colleen O’Hare's menu showcases a serious commitment to local products sourced by Dallas forager Tom Spicer and her dishes are quirky — the hempseed crusted frogs’ legs are a must. The feel of the restaurant is equally eccentric; try imagining another restaurant whose website might get away with casually referencing Jerome Clark’s Encyclopedia of the Extraterrestrial…
Recommended Dish
- Hempseed-Crusted Frog Legs
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Chef Colleen O’Hara’s Hemp–Crusted Frog Legs at Kitchen 1924
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York Street
6047 Lewis Street
Dallas, TX 75206
214 826 0968
Tue–Sat 6pm–10pm
Thu 11:30am–1:30pm
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Sharon Hage’s York Street
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This tiny restaurant with a lot of character is one of the few in Dallas that isn't in a strip mall or hotel. York Street is Chef/Owner Sharon Hage’s ode to seasonal, hearty food that above all, tastes damn good. The menu changes constantly (with Hage’s team making a point to sneak in offal and exotic ingredients like barnacles or “whatever we can get our hands on”). The small space is white and sparse and Hage's friendly and food–savvy front–of–house reinforce the fact that it's all about the food.
Recommended Dishes
- Crispy Duck Tongue Salad
- Lamb with Moroccan Couscous
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Zander’s House
2300 North Central Expressway
Plano, TX 75074
972–943–9199
Mon, Wed, Thu 11am-3pm; 5pm-10pm
Fri 11am-11pm
Sat 5pm-11pm
Sun 12pm-9:30pm
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Chef So Bui’s Zander's Beef at Zander’s House
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So it's not exactly Dallas…Zander’s House is technically in Plano but it’s worth the trip for self–taught Chef So Bui's Vietnamese comfort food. Bui runs a classic Vietnamese kitchen with his wife and his brother (who paints giant American movie star canvases on the walls) runs front–of–house. The location may be an impersonal plot on the highway, but once you're inside the family–run business, you see it’s nothing of the sort — dishes are named after members of the family and inspired by Bui’s favorites from his childhood.
Recommended Dishes
- Zander's Beef
- Coconut Curry Chicken
- Chicken Lettuce Cups
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bakery
Petit Fours Cakes
3000 Blackburn Street # 180
Dallas, TX 75204
214–559–2253
Mon-Thu 7am-7pm
Fri-Sat 7am-10pm
Sun 12pm-5pm
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Pastry Chef Bill Hunter‘s Peanut Butter Ganache Cake
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Pastry Chef Bill Hunter has a little tea room with classic finger sandwiches and cakes. Hunter makes tiny cakes (about the size of a large, Texas petit four), medium cakes, and large party cakes. The cakes are undeniably pretty and clean but they're also tasty. Try the peanut butter ganache with a nice lingering saltiness, and ask to sit in the back room for the complete tea service.
Recommended Pastry
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drinks
Ciudad
3888 Oak Lawn Avenue
Dallas, TX 75219
214–219–3141
Mon-Thu 5pm-10pm
Fri-Sat 5pm-11pm
Sun 11am-2pm; 5pm-9pm
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Mixologist Leann Berry’s Tequila Cocktails at Ciudad
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Professional tequila advocate and amateur stand-up comedian Leann Berry is reason enough to go to Mexican restaurant Ciudad — a vibrant space with outdoor seats by the water fountain and indoor seats under the giant pig. It’s a fun place for cocktails and Berry (who’s working on her first book about them) clearly enjoys the guest interaction. Sit at the pretty tiled bar, if there’s space (it's always packed), and get to know Berry and her regulars as she regales them with stories from her most recent trip to Jalisco.
Recommended Drink
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Shinsei
7713 Inwood Road
Dallas, TX 75209
214 352 0005
Mon-Thu 5pm-11pm
Fri-Sat 5pm-12am
Dallas trailblazer chefs Dean Fearing and Kent Rathbun’s wives own Shinsei, a trendy two–story Asian concept restaurant that’s got slick design and great cocktails. Chef Casey Thompson, previously with Fearing at The Mansion on Turtle Creek, has a fusion menu that pairs soba noodles with braised short ribs. Sushi Chef Shuji Sugawara does classic Japanese sushi with small Southwestern twists like raw jalapeno.
Recommended Drink
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fine dining
Abacus
4511 Mckinney Ave
Dallas, TX 75205
214–559–3111
Mon–Thurs 6pm–10pm
Fri–Sat 6pm–11pm
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Chef Tre Wilcox’s ’ Duck Three Ways at Abacus
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Abacus is the culinary crux of Dallas mentor chef Kent Rathbun’s empire. With Chef Tre Wilcox heading up the savory kitchen and Pastry Chef Rick Griggs in the sweet kitchen, Abacus attracts a real Dallas scene around its open kitchen: bustling and energetic. Try Wilcox’s duck three ways to get a sense of his technical precision with every element on the plate — from the pearl onion garnish to the confit.
Recommended Dishes
- Duck Three Ways
- Colorado Rack of Lamb
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Bijoux
5450 West Lovers Lane
Dallas, TX 75209
214 350 6100
Tue-Sat 5:30pm-10pm
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Chef Scott Gottlich’s Skate Wing with Grapefruit at Bijoux
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Chef Scott Gottlich and Pastry Chef Morgan Wilson make an ideal match and create a complete culinary experience at the jewel Bijoux. Both chefs are well–schooled in the classics and have used them to find their voices as chefs. Gottlich’s dishes are grown–up and well–polished and Wilson’s desserts are pretty and precise. Everything at Bijoux is sophisticated without feeling superfluous or pretentious. Get the tasting menu and talk to the Sommelier (Chef Gottlich’s wife) about interesting pairings to take you through the meal.
Recommended Dishes
- Skate Wing with Grapefruit
- Cippolini and Wild Mushroom Soup
- Carrot Baby Cake
- Coffee and Mascarpone Trifle
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Café on the Green
4150 North MacArthur Boulevard
Irving, TX 75038
972–717–2420
Mon-Fri 6:30am-10:30pm
Sat-Sun 7am-10:30pm
Chef de Cuisine Katie Natale and Sommelier James Tidwell run the restaurant inside The Four Seasons Hotel. With soaring conservatory–like architecture and a friendly staff, the Café has beautiful views of the championship green outside and is worth a drive out of Dallas for a relaxing lunch or dinner. Natale’s recently taken over the kitchen and replaced the menu’s German–influenced dishes with her own lighter, seasonal dishes: rustic soups like Golden Chicken Essence, Arugula, and Chicken Dumpling, and simple pastas like her Pappardelle, Crispy Pancetta, Morels, Spinach, Asiago Cheese.
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Craft
2440 Victory Park Lane, Suite 100
Dallas, TX 75219
214 397 4111
Sun-Thu 6:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10:30pm
Fri-Sat 6:30am-2:30pm; 5:30-11pm
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Chef Kevin Maxey’s Lump Crab Risotto at Craft, Dallas
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Despite the familiar industrial chic space with hanging bare bulbs, there's nothing chain-y about Craft Dallas. Chef Kevin Maxey and Pastry Chef Shannon Swindle produce unpretentious, hearty food that's well–executed. One gets the feeling a lot of thought and heart has gone into perfecting the classics on their respective menus: you’re sure to enjoy Maxey's barely garnished tortellini or Swindle's faultlessly crisp and flavorful honey tuile that’s baked–to–order. Ask the servers for guidance if the ‘do–it–yourself’ approach to ordering makes you anxious — they’re well–informed and guided by the kitchen everyday.
Recommended Dishes
- Jumbo Lump Crab Risotto with Baby Sorrel
- Goat Milk Cheesecake with Goat Butter Brittle
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Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana
3405 West 7th Street
Fort Worth, TX 76107
817–850–9996
Wed–Thu, Sun 5:30pm–10pm
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm
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Chef Lanny Lancarte’s Elk Loin with Mole Colorado
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After lifelong training from his parents family–run eateries and valuable time spent with Rick Bayless and Diana Kennedy, Chef Lanny Lancarte transformed an old restaurant in Fort Worth into a chic and airy space. His menu is a brilliant composition of Mexican ingredients approached with a European fine dining sensibility, resulting in dishes like tender sous–vide elk loin with deeply–flavored mole Colorado or delicate lobster ravioli with a light foie gras sauce.
Recommended Dishes
- Elk Loin with Mole Colorado
- Lobster Ravioli with Foie Gras Butter and Brussels Sprouts
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LOCAL
2936 Elm Street, Suite A
Dallas, TX 75226
214 752 7500
Tue–Sat 6pm–10pm
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Chef Tracy Miller’s Soda Fountain Plate at LOCAL
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Self-taught Chef Tracy Miller has transformed the hundred year old Boyd Hotel building, into a beautiful, clean, and highly personalized space that maintains a sense of history and charm. Miller's world of retro–Scandinavian–functionality with a whole lot of soul represents the artsy neighborhood of Deep Ellum - from the bowl of welcoming nuts, to the perfectly refreshing intermezzo of grapefruit and rosemary sorbet, to the absolutely tiny thumbprint petit four. Miller’s vision permeates every detail of the restaurant and follows through a meditated progression to create a completely transporting dining experience.
Recommended Dishes
- Grilled Lamb Chop with Lavender Honey-Madeira Sauce
- LOCAL Steak Special
- Soda Fountain Plate
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Luqa
1217 Main Street
Dallas, TX 75202
214–760–9000
Mon–Sat Dinner 6pm–10pm; Lounge 5pm–2am
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Chef David Gilbert’s Fruit Slider at Luqa
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If you’re lucky enough to sit by Luqa’s kitchen, encased in floor–to–celing glass, you can watch Chef David Gilbert and his detail-oriented team send out food that entertains. Don’t worry, he may play around but Gilbert doesn't forget about your palate for a second — try the barley risotto or the kangaroo with gnocchi.
Recommended Dishes
- Squab "Through a Window" with Barley Risotto, Pearl Onions, and Bacon
- Fruit Slider with Rosewater Cream and Passion Fruit Curd
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Nana
Wyndham Anatole Hotel
2201 N Stemmons Freeway, 27th floor
Dallas, TX 75207
Restaurant: 214–761–7470
Hotel: 214–748–1200
Mon–Thu 6pm–10pm
Fri–Sat 6pm–10:30pm
Sun 10:30am–10pm
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Chef Anthony Bombaci’s Texturized Olive Oil with Tomato Marmalade at Nana
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From the 27th floor of the Anatole Hilton the views of the city are beautiful. Nana’s spacious, old world dining room and bow–tied servers set up expectations for classic hotel dining but Chef Anthony Bombaci is actually a daring, high–concept, experimental
chef. Bombaci’s nine years in Spain cooking with Ferran Adriá and Joan Roca and time with American greats like Gary Danko are evident in his eclectic but always on–point dishes. Venison is served with caramelized bananas, thai peanut sauce, and cilantro. Perfectly cooked sweetbreads are garnished with a brown butter purée, capers, and a sharp sherry vinegar gelee. Put yourself in Bombaci’s hands; get the tasting menu.
Recommended Dish
- Texturized Olive Oil with Tomato Marmalade
- Venison with Caramelized Banana
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Salum Restaurant
4152 Cole Avenue # 103
Dallas, TX 75204
214 252-9604
Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-10:30pm
Sun 10:30am-3pm
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Chef Abraham Salum’s Hushpuppy–Coated Shrimp at Salum Restaurant
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Salum is a charming restaurant with an open kitchen and a lot of character. The ambience is certainly fine dining but the service and food create a sense of ease when chef Abraham Salum sends out playful dishes inspired by Southern classics.
Recommended Dish
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Stephan Pyles
1807 Ross Avenue, Suite 200
Dallas TX
214 580 7000
Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm
Sat 6pm-10:30pm
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Chef Stephan Pyles’ Lobster in White Gazpacho
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Floating tumbleweed art installations and blown glass lamps reminiscent of cacti remind you that Stephan Pyles is still, well, Stephan Pyles. Pyles still creates the Modern Southwestern cuisine that got him national attention years ago and his eponymous restaurant is a sophisticated tribute to the South American ingredients and techniques he loves and respects. Inspired by his travels and research, Pyles serves bright ceviches as well as heavier, complex dishes layered with flavors and spices. His adventurous Pastry Chef Katherine Clapner applies a similar Southwestern sense to her desserts, using savory ingredients like white balsamic gel and coriander seeds and replacing sugar with agave. Peek through the stars in the bathroom if you appreciate a cheeky sense of humor…
Recommended Dishes
- Lobster in White Gazpacho
- Crab Tamale Tart with Sea Bass in Hoja Santa
- Coffee and Doughnuts
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The Tasting Room
2917 Fairmount St Dallas
TX 75201
(214) 855-0700
Tues-Sat 6pm-9pm
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David Uygur’s Cured Scottish Salmon at The Tasting Room
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At The Tasting Room, David Uygur creates a limited prix-fixe menu five nights a week for only 10 tables of guests. The ambience created is that of an intimate dinner party amongst friends - warm, elegant, and personal. Uygur's plates are simply composed but with a tendency towards unusual ingredients like sea beans and black pudding.
Recommended Dishes
- Cured Scottish Salmon with Yuzu, Mint, and Sea Beans
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Hotel Zaza
2332 Leonard Street
Dallas, Texas 75201
Restaurant: 214–550–9500
Hotel: 800–597–8399
Daily 7am–10:30am; 11am–2:30pm; 5pm–11pm
Poolside bar: Daily 5pm–2am
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Inside The Last Tsar Suite at Hotel Zaza
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If you’re looking for all the beautiful people in Dallas, they’re at Hotel Zaza, lounging pool–side, often behind enormous sunglasses. Dragonfly, the hotel’s restaurant, looks like someone scoured the exotic flea markets of the globe to put it together: antique Thai wooden cabinets, bejeweled chandeliers and Indian embroidered silks. But it’s the hotel’s themed suites that shock and delight. Ask for the Rock Star suite if you really want to feel like one; they take the theme to serious rock star excess with plush Gothic thrones and intimate pictures of movie star couples. If you’re feeling a more restrained kind of luxury, go for the Russian Royals suite and lounge on antique tasseled chaises–longues amidst black and white photographs of Nicolas II and his family in Faberge egg–like frames
Recommended Dish
- Oyster Shooters with Ponzu Dressing
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Hotel St. Germain
2516 Maple Avenue
Dallas, TX 75201
214–871–2516
Tue–Sat 7pm–10pm
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Chef Chad Martin’s Oyster Rockefeller at The Hotel St. Germain
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Among the sprawling mega hotels of Dallas, Hotel St Germain is a refreshingly cozy converted house reminiscent of an auberge in the French countryside. You know the type: the charming lady that checks you in also helps you take your bags up, makes your dinner reservation, and gives you detailed hand–written directions when you leave. Downstairs, the old–world candlelit dining room and lounge have exposed wood beams and romantic nooks by the fireplace with heirloom roses. Chef Chad Martin serves classic dishes like Oyster Rockefeller and Beef Tenderloin with Shallot Confit and Potatoes au Gratin on equally extravagant antique plateware.
Recommended Dish
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The Mansion on Turtle Creek
2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard
Dallas, TX 75219
214 559 2100
Lunch and Dinner
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Chef John Tesar’s Lobster Bisque at The Mansion on Turtle Creek
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The Dallas hotel is luxurious landmark, with plush rooms and soaring lobby ceilings. Its fine dining establishment headed up for over 20 years by Dallas mentor chef Dean Fearing has been taken over by John Tesar, previously of rm Las Vegas. The luxurious dining room and its conservatory overlooking the courtyard is all full-bloomed pink roses and floor-length white tablecloths and the menu is Tesar's homage to classic French fine dining to with dishes like Lobster Bisque or Mussel Souffle with Green Curry Froth.
Recommended Dishes
- Lobster Bisque
- Green Curry Scented Mussel Souffle
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Hotel Adolphus
The French Room
1321 Commerce Street
Dallas, TX 75202
Restaurant: 214 651 3515
Hotel: 214 742-8200
Tue–Sat 6pm–10pm
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Chef Jason Weaver’s Seared Duck Breast at The French Room
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In the heart of downtown Dallas, the Adolphus is home to the luxurious, over–the–top French Room with the cherub–festooned ceiling and gilded gold walls of a French palace. Its silverware rests not directly on the white linen tablecloth but on crystal cutlery holders — this is seriously classic hotel fine dining. Chef Jason Weaver and Sommelier Gregory Cheval make a great team and Weaver’s dishes are not as old–school as the ambience suggests: tiny parcels of fluke are wrapped in smooth, cold foie gras terrine and drizzled with a bright pink rhubarb sauce and spicy wasabi sprouts. Check out the piano that was nearly lost onboard the Titanic but made it to the hotel’s lobby where it’s played every evening as guests enjoy their pre–dinner cocktails.
Recommended Dishes
- Seared Spiced Duck Breast with Jus
- Arctic Char with Truffled Edamame, Baby Bok Choy, Crispy Potatoes, Ginger Butter, and Shiso
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Hotel Palomar
Central 214
5680 North Central Expressway
Dallas, TX 75206
Restaurant: 214 443 9339
Hotel: 214 520 7969
Mon–Wed 7am–10pm
Thu–Fri 7am–10:30pm
Sat 8am–10:30pm
Sun 8am–3pm
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Chef Tom Fleming’s Seared Scallops at Central 214
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With daily wine tastings in the bright, airy lobby and a resourceful, helpful staff, the Palomar manages to be comfortably trendy without intimidating their guests. Chef Tom Fleming’s restaurant next door, Central 214, is a comfortable, chic space with a hearty American menu. If you’re lucky enough to be there on a Sunday morning, don’t miss the bottomless Mimosa for $20 before you wobble off to the pool. If you’re staying in, Fleming's excellent room service menu puts the more expensive silver-domed room service of much fancier hotels to shame — order the tangy artichoke gratin or one his ultra–thin crusted pizzas.
Recommended Dishes
- Seared Scallops with Lentil Ragout
- Watercress and Endive Salad
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