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what
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where
to go
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GETTING CULINARY IN CATALONIA: WHAT TO EAT AND WHERE TO GO
IN BARCELONA
By Kelly Snowden
Spain has firmly established its place at
the forefront of modern gastronomy, creating alta cocina
that’s grounded in both the laboratory and the kitchen.
Whether you believe the hype or not, new techniques and presentations,
such as consommé lentils and edible cocktails, have
left diners dazzled both in their palates and in their minds.
Although the revolution has been going on all over Spain,
the frontlines of this new wave are arguably in Barcelona,
where Ferrán Adrià has his laboratory.
Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia, a
fiercely independent region of Spain that has its own language,
culture and traditions. Catalonians savor living in their
casual Mediterranean beach city, and they take their food
seriously. The landscape, and most restaurants, are decidedly
modern and chic, as evidenced by Barcelona’s Art Nouveau
architecture and numerous museums dedicated to modern masters
such as Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró.
Not all restaurants listed below prescribe
to the ideas behind alta cocina, but each one serves
food that is infinitely tasty and tied to the cuisine and
traditions of Barcelona, a city straddling the land and sea.
One small detail to note when making reservations and dining
out in Barcelona: Spain runs on a different timeline than
continental Europe and America. Lunch is taken between 2 and
4 in the afternoon, and most restaurants don’t even
open for dinner until 9. Once you have reserved a table, though,
it is most likely yours for the afternoon or evening, leaving
no need to rush. So just relax, and take the time to savor
the food. Buen Provecho!
TAPAS AND APPETIZERS
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A take on Pan con Tomate
y Fuet at Manairo
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Everyone knows that tapas (traditional bar
food) form one of the cornerstones of Spanish cuisine, but
they also appear as high-concept appetizers in several fine-dining
restaurants around town. A restaurant special that you won’t
see in Madrid is Pan con Tomate, toasted
bread rubbed with garlic and tomato, then drizzled with oil
and a pinch of salt. This tangy dish is also sometimes accompanied
by Fuet, or sausage. An exemplary representation
of this mealtime standard is available at Bar Pinotxo,
a favorite tapas bar among local chefs for its classic take
on Catalonian cuisine. A high-end version of the dish comes
from Ramón Freixa of El Raco
d’en Freixa, who reinterprets it using fuet
pierced by breadsticks that have been rolled in tomato. Jordi
Herrera of Manairo does another
restaurant interpretation, with the main elements, bread,
tomato, fuet and garlic, blended together and dehydrated for
serving in a spoon.
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A take on Pan con Tomate
y
Fuet from El Raco d'en Freixa
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Patatas Bravas, diced potatoes
in a spicy tomato sauce that are often served with aioli,
are dished up at almost every corner joint in Barcelona. Sergi
Arola’s Arola has its own version,
plating the potatoes in uniform can-shaped chunks individually
stuffed with tomato and topped with the garlicky mayonnaise.
The taste, and even the texture, are true to the original,
but the presentation is sophisticated enough for the well-heeled
clientele.
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Pan con Tomate from
Bar Pinotxo
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Another filling treat for someone on the
go is Tortilla de Patatas,
a heavy egg and potato omelet served between two slices of
bread. Xavier Pellicer of Abac
does an elaborate take on this that’s topped with truffles
and perhaps is more akin to a
Croqueta.
For other bar standards you might see around
town in bars and restaurants alike, try Boquerones,
white anchovies in vinegar, served at Quimet &
Quimet, a popular tapas bar, on top of a piece of
toast with sun-dried tomato pate, leeks and an olive. And
for a shock of sweet richness, nothing beats Chocolate
con Churros. The hot chocolate in Spain is thick
as pudding, and the cinnamon churros are the ideal accompaniment.
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RESTAURANTS:
Sugar
and Spice:
ESPAI SUCRE
Carrer de la Princesa, 53
08003 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-268-1630
espaisucre.com
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Tea Soup from Espai Sucre
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Jordi Butrón is a true innovator
in a world of imitators. He’s been stretching pastry
frontiers since the early 90s. Back then he was combining
sweet with savory to make memorable desserts at a time when
the French dominated pastry with sweet, meticulously presented
dishes. He also began doing dessert tasting menus around
the same time, sometimes alternating sweeter courses with
ones that had stronger savory notes. He’s been doing
both of these things at his restaurant, Espai Sucre, for
the past seven years, while also running his own pastry
school during the day. The décor of the restaurant
is minimalist, with bright orange accents in a large, lofty
space with floor-to-ceiling windows facing onto the street.
The tasting menus include 3 or 5 courses, and each course
has a suggested wine pairing. Make the trip for an after-dinner
treat, or have your visit be the evening’s main event.
- Desserts to Savor:
Manchego Cheese “Tart” with Pineapple
and Thyme
Truffle, Butter and Hazelnut
Cold Ceylon Tea Soup with Spices and Fruits
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Chocolate
Whimsies:
ORIOL BALAGUER
Plaza Sant Gregori Taumaturg, 2
08021 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-201-1846
oriolbalaguer.com
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Chocolates in the
window of
Oriol Balaguer's shop
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Tucked into a plaza in a high-end neighborhood of
Barcelona is Oriol Balaguer’s store. He, like
Butrón, has been combining chocolate with savory
spices for ages, yielding one of his best sellers,
a box of tasting chocolates with flavors like cardamom,
saffron and pop rocks. The shop’s modern design
of black and white showcases chocolates, candies and
a new concept cake every month. During Easter the
studio churns out giant chocolate eggs with cut-outs
revealing smaller eggs, golf balls or Japanese characters.
Stop in to put together a picnic basket of treats
along with a matching wine.
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Where
Tapas Are Tops
AROLA (At Hotel Arts Barcelona)
Carrer de la Marina, 19-21
08005 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-221-1000
ritzcarlton.com/hotels/barcelona
This chic establishment right on the beach is part
of the expanding empire of La Broche chef Sergi Arola,
and is located in the sexy Hotel Arts. Here the tapa-inspired
cold and hot plates are the best bets, where you get
to try a bit of everything while sharing with your
companions. They make up about two thirds of the menu.
The dining room has a futuristic vibe, with a walk-through
wine display case dominating the center of the blue-accented
room. Chiffon curtains hanging from floor-to-ceiling
give a more intimate feel, and placemats have photographs
of Chef Arola crafting his masterpieces. Make sure
you get a drink from the bar, such as the Guaracha,
a slightly sweet raspberry concoction that is as beautiful
to look at as it is to drink.
- Dishes to Savor:
Carpaccio of Tuna with Tomato, Goat Cheese
and Soya “Perrins” Sauce
Royal Truffle with Cubed Foie Gras
Iberian Cured Ham
Poached Razor Clams
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Intimate,
Stylish Service
ABAC
Carrer del Rec, 79-89
08003 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-319-6600
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Potato Omelet with
Truffle at Abac
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Chef Xavier Pellicer’s Abac is a beautiful
restaurant, with pale neutrals from wall-to-wall and
a staff that is widely recognized as one of the most
helpful in Barcelona. The atmosphere is cozy but sophisticated,
and tables are placed far enough apart to allow for
intimate conversation between courses. The food is
welcoming and enticing as well, with influences both
from Chef Pellicer’s French father and Catalonian
mother, such as the typical combination of mountain
and sea elements. For Pellicer, meals are about more
than food. They’re also about timing, where
the pace of service has flavors build upon one another
over courses.
- Dishes to Savor:
Crab Tartar with Avocado, Mushrooms, and
Lemon and Basil Sorbet
Potato Omelet with Truffles
Brioche with Vanilla and Passion Fruit
Sturgeon with Shitake, Bok Choy and Emulsion of
Cepes
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Seafood
with a Twist:
MANAIRO
Disputación, 424
08035 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-231-0057
manairo.com
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Veal prepared on
the Fakircook at Manairo
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The focus of Manairo is on the interplay of the sea
and mountains around Barcelona. Chef Jordi Herrera
prepares food that is equally hearty and playful,
with robust flavors and sweet brininess. Try a dish
prepared on the Fakircook, a bed of nails that is
heated over a range flame for swift cooking of meat.
Chef Herrera invented it so that he could cook meat
through in a short amount of time while keeping as
much juice and tenderness as possible.
- Dishes to Savor:
Red Mullet with Green Peas, Garlic Oil and Parsley
“False” Risotto (made from potato) with
Squid
Monkfish with Chickpeas and Butifarra
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The
Beautiful People
MOO (At Hotel Omm)
Carrer de Rosselló, 265
08008 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-445-4000
hotelomm.es
Joan Roca’s first concept restaurant is
located on the first floor of Hotel Omm and has sleek,
cool lighting with a decidedly Japanese vibe. Roca’s
brother, Josep, has a nose for wine, and many of the
dishes, such as the prawn dish sited below, were developed
specifically to complement the flavors in the wines
they’re paired with. The food is pure Spanish
innovation with some of the most breath-taking presentations
in Barcelona, served on humorously designed plates
with animals, short phrases or photographs. Chef Felip
Llufriu runs the kitchen while Chef Roca leads his
signature establishment, El Celler de Can Roca, in
nearby Girona.
- Dishes to Savor:
Beet Root with Truffle, Porcini and Artichoke Hearts
Prawns with Curry, Roses and Carrots
Timbale of Apple and Foie Gras with Vanilla Oil
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See
and Be Seen
COMERĒ 24
Carrer del Comerç, 24
08003 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-319-2102
comerc24.com
This restaurant was conceived as a place to
experiment with high-end tapas, and Carles
Abellan, formerly of El Bulli, serves them
with style and humor. Olives come in tin anchovy
canisters printed with the restaurant’s
insignia, and shrimp sashimi comes with the
head on, displayed like a fan. The décor
is chic in black and red, and the bar is one
of Barcelona’s hottest spots to be seen
once the sun has set. Make sure to leave room
for the sweet tapas that come at the end,
especially the olive oil and chocolate with
salt.
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Olive oil
and chocolate
dessert at Comerç 24
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Tapas to
Savor:
Iberian Ham, Mozzarella and Truffle
Sandwich
Sea Bass with Artichokes and Truffles
Sashimi Tuna with Wasabi, Soy and
Citrus Vinaigrette
Codfish with Artichoke Puree and
Black Truffle Oil
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Old
Spain, New Again
EL RACO D'EN FREIXA
Carrer Sant Elies, 22
08006 Barcelona
phone: 34-93-209-7559
elracodenfreixa.com
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The bread basket
at
El Raco d'en Freixa
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El Raco D’en Freixa is an establishment rooted
in family tradition. Chef Ramón Freixa’s
father ran the back of the house before he did, and
his grandparents were both local bread-makers. They’ve
passed their secrets onto their grandson, as evidenced
by the most addictive breadbasket in all of Barcelona.
This culinary blood runs through Chef Freixa’s
veins as well, and his passion is pumped into each
of his elegant, tantalizing dishes. Like many other
Catalan cooks, Chef Freixa takes inspiration from
combining sea elements with land elements, as in his
sea snail and quail egg emulsion. Everything has bold,
fresh flavors but is prepared in the most meticulous
manner as Ramón Freixa carries his family establishment
firmly into the future.
- Dishes to Savor:
Ravioli of Pheasant with Pumpkin and Hazelnut Cream
Foie Gras Ball Covered in Truffle with Muscatel
Gelatin and Spicy Bread Cream
Rockfish with Green Onions, Macadamia Nuts and Garlic
Cream
Prawns with Tubular Vegetables and Risotto
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TAPAS BARS:
BAR
PINOTXO
Mercat de la Boqueria
phone: 34-93-317-1731
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A stand at Mercat
de la Boqueria
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This bar’s location in the heart of Barcelona’s
most bustling market guarantees that all the tapas
are made with the freshest ingredients available.
There’s no gimmick here, just standard tapas
and raciones (small plates) done simply but
with great attention to detail. During the lunch hour,
a constant rotation of diners sidles up to the bar
for classic Mediterranean dishes like croquetas and
garbanzos with black sausage. It may not be fancy,
which is precisely why the joint counts Ferrán
Adrià as one of its biggest fans.
- Tapas to Savor:
Pan con Tomate
Anchovies with Cream of Avocado on a Baguette
Callos (Tripe)
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QUIMET
& QUIMET
Carrer de la Poeta Cabanyes
25
phone: 34-93-442-3142
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A montadito at Quimet
& Quimet
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This tavern-style bar packs in customers hungry for
its ever-changing menu of tapas, all straight from
the imagination of Chef Quimet. He takes whatever
is freshest and serves it from behind the bar, often
highlighting local ingredients such as white asparagus
and tuna. His menu varies from day to day depending
upon what he can find, but his specialty is montaditos,
small rounds of toasted bread heaped with any combination
of ingredients. Make sure you wash it all down with
the delicious dark house beer, specially brewed in
Belgium for Quimet & Quimet.
- Tapas to Savor:
Montaditos
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CHEFS RECOMMEND:
Santa
Caterina Market (Avinguda de Francesc Cambò)
has a bar in back called La Torna
that is perfect for traditional Spanish food. Chef
Ramón Freixa heads there for
a casual bite to eat.
Shunka
(Carrer del Sagristans 5, ph: 34-93-412-4991) is known
for Japanese standards like tempura and is favored
by chefs from all around the city, including Chef
Felip Llufriu, who runs the kitchen
at Moo.
Tram-Tram
(Major de Sarrià, 121, ph: 34-93-204-8518)
offers plates like queso fresco with zucchini and
eggplant, which Chef Xavier Pellicer
orders when he drops in for dinner.
Restaurant
Sant Joan (Pg. Sant Joan, 65, ph: 34-93-265-7180)
isn’t a place to go with a specific dish in
mind, since the menu changes daily from soup to chicken
to fish, but Chef Jordi Herrera orders
whatever is on the menu for the day and is never disappointed.
Ken
(Benet I Mateu, 53, ph: 34-93-203-2044) is another
Japanese joint that focuses on sushi and is a favorite
of Chef Xavier Pellicer.
Alkimia
(Carrer Indústria, 79, ph: 93-34-207-6115)
is a favorite of Jordi Herrera for
alta cocina that is a step outside
of the mold with a personality all its own.
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