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  Vol.2
 

Old World and New World Collide
by Tejal Rao
October 2006

At Vidalia in Washington DC sommelier Doug Mohr harmonizes New World wines with Chef RJ Cooper’s modern American dishes but doesn’t hesitate to make bolder, unexpected matches that stretch as far as Spain. Cooper’s quail dish is a musing in early fall colors and ingredients and the little bird is stuffed and sliced in the fashion of a traditional roulade and even presented foot-on. But the presentation and the complimenting sauce—with all the sharpness and playfulness of dressed-up ketchup—renews the French roulade in visual style as well as taste. The upshot is a contemporary American dish whose European roots are mischievously implied by Mohr’s sophisticated Old World wine pairing. It’s this internationally boundless imagination and sense of playfulness that best define Mohr’s wine pairing style. The results, like Mohr, are bold, imaginative and hearty without overpowering the dishes’ flavors.

 
 
Restaurant
Vidalia
1990 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20036
202.659.1990
Who
Sommelier Doug Mohr is the gate-keeper to a wine wonderland at Vidalia and delights in matching Chef RJ Cooper’s dishes with equally nuanced wines. With quirky titles on his well-composed wine list and special wine flights like “Mineral Rocks” and “Old Vines and New Wines,” Mohr brings the wine experience down to earth and makes complimenting wine and food accessible and fun.

Wine

2004 Tablas Creek “Cotes de Tablas” Blanc, Paso Robles, California
Price per Bottle
$42
Dish
Atlantic Black Bass Pan Roasted with Black-Eyed Peas, Fennel, Oven Roasted Tomato-Cuttlefish Ragout and Roasted Garlic-Fines Herbes Emulsion
Pairing Notes
Floral, herbaceous and green notes compliment the licorice undertones of the froth without dominating the delicate fish.
Wine
2001 Remelluri, Rioja, Spain
Price per Bottle
$61
Dish
Farmer’s Farm Quail with Chestnut Wild Rice and Apple Stuffing, Boudin Blanc, Brussels Sprouts, Blue Plum Mustard and Rosemary
Pairing Notes
Lush, smooth, and sweet tannins compliment the high-acid mustard. The aromas of earth and plum match the quail meat without overpowering.
Wine
2002 J Albin Winery “Laurel Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Price per Bottle
$48
Dish
Truffled Heirloom Potatoes Roasted with Crispy Pork Belly, Garlic Cream and Juniper Infused Sea Salt
Pairing Notes
The slightly fruity nose compliments the complicated scent of truffles. The leathery bite cuts the salt and fat of the pork belly.

 

 

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