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Chiles
en Nogada
Stuffed Chiles with Walnut Sauce
Reprinted
with permission from Cocina de la Familia: More Than 200 Authentic
Recipes from Mexican-American Home Kitchens by Marilyn Tausend
with Miguel Ravago.
Copyright © Fireside, Simon & Schuster, Inc., New York,
NY.
Adapted by StarChefs
This
festive dish, resplendent with the colors of the Mexican flag, is
traditionally served on September 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence
Day, though it is popular anytime in the late summer and fall when
the walnuts are fresh and the pomegranates abundant. During August
and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico
City and Puebla on the streets bordering the markets, village women
can be seen sitting on blankets painstakingly peeling off the brown
skin from each individual walnut. It is important to use the freshest
walnuts as possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that
it is worth the effort demanded to peel them.
For
the Meat
- 2
pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound beef and 1 pound
pork butt
-
1 small white onion, quartered
- 2
cloves garlic
-
about 1 Tablespoon sea salt
For
the Picadillo
- 4
Tablespoons safflower or canola oil
- 1/3
cup chopped white onion
- 3
cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2
teaspoon ground cinnamon (cassia)
- 1/4
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/8
teaspoon ground cloves
- 3
heaping Tablespoons raisins
- 2
Tablespoons chopped walnuts or pecans
- 2
Tablespoons chopped candied acitrón or candied pineapple
- 1
fresh pear, peeled and chopped
- 1
apple, peeled and chopped
- 3
large, ripe tomatoes roasted, peeled and chopped, or 1 (28-ounce)
can chopped tomatoes, with juice
- kosher
salt to taste
For
the Chiles
- 6
fresh poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and seeded, leaving the
stem intact
For
the Walnut Sauce
- 1
cup fresh walnuts
- 6
ounces cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature
- 1-1/2
cups Mexican crema or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk
- about
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
- 1
Tablespoon sugar (optional)
- 1/8
teaspoon ground cinnamon (cassia) (optional)
- 1/4
cup dry sherry (optional)
For
the Garnish
- 1
Tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro leaves
- 1/2
cup pomegranate seeds
Cut
the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat
into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover
with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim
off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow
the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender.
Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove
the pieces of meat and finely shred them. (If making stuffed chiles
with a tomato sauce rather than the walnut sauce, save the broth.)
Warm
the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and
garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the
shredded meat and cook for 5 minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper,
and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the 2 Tablespoons chopped
walnuts, and the candied acitrón. Add the chopped pear and
apple, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue
cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated.
Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and
set aside. The picadillo may be made 1 day in advance.
Make
a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the
seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles on absorbent
paper until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may
be prepared 1 day in advance.
At
least 3 hours in advance, place the 1 cup walnuts in a small pan
of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for 5 minutes.
Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin
as possible. Chop into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese,
crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in
the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry, if using, until thoroughly
combined. Chill for several hours.
Preheat
the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling
and stuff the chiles until plump and just barely closed. Put the
filled chiles, covered, to warm in the oven. After they are thoroughly
heated, place the chiles on a serving platter or on individual plates,
cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the parsley
and pomegranate seeds.
Ingredient
Notes:
Acitrón
is crystallized biznaga cactus and comes in bars a little smaller
than a cube of butter. I have found it in the United States only
in heavily Mexican-populated areas such as Chicago and Los Angeles,
but when you go to Mexico, you can buy some a t any large city candy
store, including at the Mexico City airport. If you can't find it,
candied pineapple is an acceptable substitute, but don't use citron,
a preserved citrus fruit that has a decidedly different taste and
texture and is best kept for y our seasonal fruitcake.
Poblano
chiles are commonly found in most grocery stores these days, but
unfortunately are often incorrectly labeled pasilla chiles, which
are a dried red chile. The chile you are looking for is a large
fresh chile with very broad shoulders and is perfect for stuffing.
The easiest way to roast chiles is to place them directly in or
over the flame of a gas stove for about five minutes, turning with
tongs as they char and blister on all sides. The idea is to char
the skin, but barely cook the flesh. The chiles can also be roasted
on a very hot charcoal or gas grill as close to the coals as possible
and although not recommended they can be broiled close to a preheated
electric element, turning occasionally. After the chiles are roasted,
put them in a pa per or plastic bag and let them sit for about five
minutes before removing the skin. Use your hands to rub, pick and/or
peel the skin away and if necessary rinse the chiles quickly under
water. It is fine if some of the charred bits of skin remain. Slice
open one side of the chiles and cut and scrape out the membrane
with its seeds. Now they are ready to stuff.
Marilyn
Tausend, author of Mexico the Beautiful, Cocina de la Familia:
More than 200 Authentic Recipes from Mexican American Home Kitchens,
and most recently, Savoring Mexico, has spent a lifetime studying
and cooking Mexican food. In 1987, she founded Culinary Adventures,
Inc., which specializes in culinary tours of Mexico. For more information
on Marilyn Tausend, her cookbooks, or Culinary Adventures, Inc.,
check out her website at www.MarilynTausend.com.
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