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On the Plate: Notable Presentations
April 2007
vol.8
XYZ
San Francisco, CA
Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Curry Oil, Pork Rinds, Quail Egg
Kumomoto Oysters with Pickled Ginger Granita
The rock salt dotted with warm aromatics like star anise and juniper berries releases an exotic brown spice aroma as the diner reaches down to pick up an oyster. The tiny quenelle of granita is soaking in sweet oyster brine, both of which slip easily out of the half-shell and into the mouth. The entire experience is sensual, and not just literally.

Chef Rob Hurd
Ame
San Francisco, CA
Sugar Cones with Salmon and Crème Fraiche
Octopus Carpaccio
The beautiful, sheer layers of octopus are tiled on the plate and finished with a mound of shining octopus-artichoke salad. The attention is on the precisely placed curling tentacle, and a variety of textures of the same ingredient, but distracted by spontaneous sprinklings of vibrant chili powder.

Chef Greg Dunmore

 

Silks
San Francisco, CA
Soda Fountain Plate
Tuna Sashimi with Ponzu Vinaigrette and Feta Foam
There’s a striking tension between the clean, precise geometry of the cut fish and the free-form colored sauces running into each other below it. The complimentary citrus notes and acid of the dish are contained in tiny gelled cubes but the plate itself suggests an organic mingling of flavors.

Chef Joel Huff
Citizen Cake
San Francisco, CA
Blis-Smoked Steelhead Caviar, Green Apples Cru, White Apple Soup, Wild Rice Popcorn

The Black Island

The whimsically titled Black Island is a delicate sphere of isomalt filled with sesame custard afloat in a sea of litchi froth and fresh litchis. The effect is disarming when presented in a dessert, and as peculiar and stunning as an egg from another planet. Chewy tapioca pearls bobbing to the surface contribute to the air of mystery.

Chef Elizabeth Falkner
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