is not how my mother made her latkes (which were delicious,
by the way), and I used to think the grated potato latke was
limp and bland. But that was before I tried Steve Gold's latkes.
Steve is the proprietor of Murray's Chickens, and I watched
him take top honors with this recipe at the James Beard Foundation's
Third Annual Latke Lovers' Cook-Off.
some Jewish grandmothers will attest that a scraped knuckle
or two makes the finished product more authentic, Steve chooses
to make his latkes in the food processor rather than by hand
(like my mother). He leaves the skin on the potatoes and adds
a drop of self-rising flour to make a light, potato-y latke
that I think is delicious. (Don't skimp on the salt, which
helps bring out the flavor.) The batter is easy to work with
and the latkes fry up quickly, which makes this recipe better
than the shredded version when cooking for a crowd.
18 to 24 latkes, depending on size
2 large russet potatoes (1 pound), unpeeled, washed well,
and cut into quarters
medium onion (1/2 pound), peeled and cut into quarters
large egg with 1 egg yolk
tablespoons self-rising cake flour or 4 tablespoons all-purpose
flour with 1/2 teaspoon baking powder and 1/4 teaspoon kosher
teaspoon kosher salt
cup vegetable oil for frying
a food processor fitted with a coarse shredding disk, shred
the potatoes and the onion. The potatoes should come out in
long strands, while the onions will turn to mush. Transfer
to a clean bowl. Fit the food processor with the metal chopping
blade and return the shredded potatoes and onions to the bowl.
Pulse on and off 4 or 5 times until the potatoes are finely
chopped. Add the egg and pulse just until combined. Working
quickly, so as not to let the potatoes oxidize and turn brown,
transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl and add the flour
and salt. Mix together until the flour disappears.
a medium cast-iron or other heavy-bottom sauté pan
over medium-high heat. Pour in about 1/4 inch of vegetable
oil. Once the oil is hot (test it by placing a drop or two
of batter into the pan to see if it sizzles), use a tablespoon
to scoop the batter into the hot pan. Flatten and shape immediately
with the back of the spoon. When the edges of the latke are
brown and crisp, flip. Cook until the second side is browned,
remove from the pan, and drain on paper towels. Serve with
applesauce and/or sour cream.
far in advance can I make these latkes? As with any pancake,
they are best right out of the pan. But because this mixture
is more like a batter than a heap of shredded potatoes, you
can actually keep it about an hour before you intend to fry
them up. Once cooked, if you must, the latkes can be reheated
in a 300°F. oven.
this mixture pours easily and is a pleasure to work with,
I like to use it if I have a whole lot of latkes to make.
Increase all of the ingredients proportionately.