The market is a prime social scene for the city’s chefs – they greet one another with handshakes or hugs as they stop to chat and catch up. On separate excursions we were joined by Peter Hoffman of Savoy, Marco Moreira of Tocqueville, and Cyril Renaud of Fleur de Sel - three talented chefs who put their produce where their mouths are. Watching them wind their way through the market, we caught a glimpse of their distinct approaches and discovered how they make the most of each trip.

We couldn’t help but notice that Hoffman, Moreira, and Renaud all tended to gravitate toward the same vendors – like the “tomato guy” for his perfectly irregular heirloom tomatoes and Franca Tantillo, owner of Berried Treasures in Upstate New York, for everything under the sun – like Tristar strawberries and Juliet tomatoes. “I am a person about relationships,” Renaud says. “For me, it’s important to buy from people with a good attitude. I believe in the power of good energy.”

Franca Tantillo says the reason chefs like her produce is that she puts a generous amount of minerals into her soil, resulting in fruit and vegetables with higher sugar content (We think it’s the good karma and friendly rapport that she has with chefs). She frequently offers them samples to taste, popping tomatoes into their mouths so they can judge for themselves.

The connection between purveyors and chefs is one of the most important relationships in the restaurant business. Being able to purchase high-quality produce from the farmers’ market is a convenience and a luxury that many chefs don’t have. For Hoffman, Moreira, and Renaud, using seasonal, fresh produce is not just a philosophy, it is a way of life.