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Outside Farrah Olivia
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On December 12, in the twinkling lights of the sleek glass-walled
dining room of Chef Morou Outtara's Farrah Olivia,
some of DC's culinary brightest and best gathered, many
fresh from the line and still in their whites, for an evening
of camaraderie and cuisine. The next day they would be put
to work, serving a crowd of over 300 DC gourmands, but not
this evening – this night was reserved for a celebration
of the new class of DC Rising Stars.
Three years earlier, Chef Morou was a Rising Star. Along
with Jamie Leeds, Fabio Trabocchi and others, he served
his dishes to the throngs at the Hotel Monaco – and
even rallied to throw the afterparty. This time he closed
his new restaurant for the night to welcome a new generation
of culinary talent through the doors, accompanied by their
mentors, all the 2003 Rising Star award winners, and the
sponsors that made the affair possible. The trailblazing
Jose Andres and Katsuya Fukushima, the sustainably-minded
Nora Pouillon, Todd Gray, Cathal Armstrong and Barton Seaver,
and the area's sushi masters Koji Terano and Noriaki Yasutake,
counted among his guests.
Nicolas Feuillatte 1998 Blanc de Blancs Champagne accompanied
the rounds of passed hors d'oeuvres – elegant bites
of smoked pear with wasabi and black salt on skewers stuck
in playful wooden cubes and spheres, petite squab burgers
with spiced fig ketchup jelly, marinated tuna espaliered
on personal pipettes of gingery apple juice, and Kobe tartare
with delicate 65° eggs perched on cubes of brioche.
A 2002 Vineyard 8 Chardonnay, acidic, fruity and minerally,
from the Spring Mountain district in Napa, accompanied the
seared diver scallop with creamy, savory melon seed milk,
and white tuna with citrus caramel and peppery shansho anglaise.
Vineyard 8 Cabernet, with rich blackberry on the nose and
complex spice and oak on the palate, paired with Cervena
venison and sweet-spiced red palm jus, and a selection of
American Farmhouse cheeses with grapes and honey. Devi’s
Himalayan Dawn Tea cleansed the palate, and a homey but
elegant dish of french toast and coffee granita, paired
with a Rhum Clément Créole Shrubb, ended the
night.
Well, almost ended. Guests lingered well after midnight,
talking shop (fish purveyors, American wines, tea flavor
profiles), planning field trips to Polyface Farms in Virginia,
and sharing stories of time spent in San Francisco, Ireland,
Spain, and more. It was this camaraderie between colleagues
– from an industry that so rarely affords them the
time to gather together – that made the night a true
success.
Menu
Recipes in Bold
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The StarChefs.com Rising Stars Revue™
Honorees Dinner
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Hosted by 2003 Washington
DC Rising Star Chef Morou MENU
Kobe Hangar Tartare | 65º
egg | berbere oil
Black Eyed Pea Fritters | smoked shrimp essence |
tail pepper honey
Shocked
Tuna | red wine | spicy Apple
Hudson Valley Foie Gras |0 date bars
Smoked
Pears | wasabi | black salt
Micro
Squab Burgers | fig ketchup jelly
Nicolas
Feuillatte, Brut Blanc de Blancs, 1998
Diver
Scallop | bacon powder | melon seed milk
Vineyard
8 Chardonnay, Spring Mountain, 2003
White Tuna | citrus caramel | sansho anglaise
Vineyard
8 Chardonnay, Spring Mountain, 2003
Hudson Valley Foie Gras | quail | chocolate Merlot
Nicolas
Feuillatte, Cuvée Spéciale, 1999
Slow-Roasted
Cervena Venison Rack | plantain loaf | red palm
jus
Vineyard
7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, 2002
Devi Tea’s “Himalayan Dawn” Indian
Black Tea
American Farmhouse Cheese | grapes | honey
Vineyard
7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, 2002
Coffee Granita | french toast | passion fruit paper
Rhum Clément
Créole Shrubb
We would also like to thank:
Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, Chefs Warehouse, Devi
Tea,
Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Metropolitan, Rhum Clément,
Samuels & Sons, San Pellegrino
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