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By Antoinette Bruno
This year StarChefs returned to Los Angeles for our
second culinary tour of the city, in search of the latest Rising
Stars. But even after our first round of awards two years ago, many
people asked us, “Why LA? Isn’t Los Angeles a culinary
wasteland that serves the Hollywood scenesters? The answer is a
resounding “No!” If you haven’t been to LA in
recent years, then you are missing out.
The chefs we chose this year in general reflect a move away from
the destination fine-dining that was popular in years past. Diners
are shying away from LA traffic when going for their daily meals
out. Chefs are opening up restaurants where they live, offering
grown-up food and service in neighborhood-y settings.
Another trend we noticed is a return to simplicity, whether the
food was haute cuisine or bistro-style fare. Dishes tend to be comprised
of a limited number of components made from the freshest ingredients.
Techniques are less showy on the plate, although their delicious
results are evident. The chefs we selected are driving these trends
and creating new ones as you read this. They are leaders in the
culinary vanguard of Los Angeles dining, and all are well worth
the trip.
2006 Los Angeles Rising Stars
Click
here for more information about the Los Angeles Rising
Stars Revue on May 16 at Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel.
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Jill is young, fun and bubbly.
Her food is far from conventional. She delights in unusual combinations,
using unexpected ingredients and touches to create her straightforward,
American dishes. Like many of the chefs we considered for Rising
Stars, her weekly trips to the farmers’ market are what really
drive her dishes.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Short Rib Tagine over Toasted Couscous
- Grilled Sepia with Merguez Sausage and Beluga Lentils
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Lee is totally passionate
about modern macrobiotic cuisine. At M Café de Chaya he applies
the core principles of macrobiotics to mainstream casual dining.
Lee is a vocal advocate of social responsibility among chefs, especially
when it comes to putting forth menus that promote healthy eating
habits for the 21st century. Lee believes that macrobiotic cuisine
has techniques and principles that every chef can apply to their
menus such as using ingredients that are easily digested. Not only
are his dishes healthy, they are imaginative and delicious!
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Wild Smoked Salmon Benedict
- Crispy Tempe with Coconut Cream
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Mohammad is a late-life career
changer, leaving computer engineering for fine-dining after a long
soul-searching fishing trip in Montana. He has a sense of spice
that could only come from someone familiar with Indian cooking techniques,
and uses this familiarity to perfection in his dishes. His closet-sized
kitchen with six electric burners might have limited his menu to
nothing more than average hotel fare, yet Mohammad elevates his
dishes with elegance and sophistication.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Ahi Tuna with Crushed Pepper and Crystallized Ginger Mascarpone
- Manchego Ravioli with Asparagus, Chanterelle Crudo and Roasted
Tomato
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Ludovic is a mad professor
in passion, appearance and demeanor; working in his kitchen/laboratory
he is pushing food into the next phase of evolution. His experiments
in design, presentation and taste are expanding our perception of
food and how it is consumed. Although some may find his dishes challenging,
his risk-taking and contributions to the future of food can not
be denied.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Deconstruction of Bloody Mary, Celery Mousse, Tomato Sorbet, Flambé
Vodka Gelée
- Fried Vermicelli with Cinnamon Butter and Manila Clams, Lobster
Glaze, Langoustine and Cinnamon Dust
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: When 2004 Rising Star Chef
Michael Cimarusti departed Water Grill to open his own restaurant,
we were skeptical that anyone could measure up as his replacement,
but David proved us wrong. Hands down, David is the most cosmopolitan
chef working in Los Angeles right now. His food is sophisticated,
beautiful and tastes delicious. Each element on the plate is a standout,
yet together the flavors are married to perfection in a harmonious
presentation inspired by nature.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Slow Poached Columbia River Sturgeon, Roasted and Pureed Red Beets,
Creamed Spinach
- Wasabi Marinated Tuna with Red Radish Puree and Shiso
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Inspired by his youth spent
along the Maryland coast, David specializes in unusual fish, but
his food is infinitely approachable and easy. Though the setting
is casual chic, his dishes are reminiscent of the comfort food of
seaside fish shacks, with creative twists on traditional dishes.
There is no pomp or unnecessary complexity in his food, and the
flavors and textures are fresh and simply divine.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Hawaiian Marlin, Salsa Verde, Cranberry Beans, House-cut Pappardelle
Noodles and Braised Leeks
- Baked Maine Oysters, Black Kale, Applewood Smoked Bacon and Clarified
Butter
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Sean starts with the idea
that there should never be more than three prevailing elements in
a course. This approach keeps everything on the plate uncomplicated.
His food is elegant and streamlined, attempting to showcase the
flavors of the freshest ingredients in their best light. And there's
nothing extraneous on the plate.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Foie Gras Lollipop with Cherry Vinaigrette
- Santa Barbara Spicy Lobster, Truffle Emulsion and White Corn Pudding
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: At this neighborhood bistro
Richardson serves simple American fare that is bursting at the seams
with flavor. James has a masterful sense of texture and color, employing
a variety of unusual grains and produce on the plate. James’
food reflects his immense passion for cooking.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Jumbo Shrimp with Sweet Corn Succotash
- Kurabata Pork Belly with Black Eyed Peas and Shiitake Mushrooms
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: While other chefs might be
trying to invent new dishes, Jason is perfecting the classics. His
Italian dishes pack no surprises but are indescribably delicious.
Instead of reinterpreting the flavors or form of osso buco, Jason
renders it textbook perfect in taste and presentation. With his
light touch and completely unfussy approach, Jason elevates common
cuisine to uncommon levels.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Smoked Eel Salad, Orange Segment, Radish, Arugula
- Chestnut Ravioli with Sage Brown Butter
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Elizabeth’s sophisticated
and comforting desserts are as lovely and sophisticated as this
pastry chef herself. Composed, soft-spoken and powerfully articulate
– her desserts are pure pleasure on the plate. Each creation
beckons you to indulge in every morsel.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Maple-glazed Doughnuts with Roasted Heirloom Apples, and Apple
Cider Ice Cream
- Sweet Corn Crème Caramel with Corn Ice Cream
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Growing up in Singapore,
Kristy's horizons stretch far beyond the famous Raffles Hotel where
she cut her teeth. She is sophisticated and delicate, as are her
creations, but underneath it all lies a strong individual that excels
in the business side of baking. On top of running Jin Patisserie,
Kristy prepares an additional 500 desserts each week for the lucky
first- and business-class passengers of Singapore Airlines.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Meringue with Passion Fruit, Mango and Strawberry
- Mascarpone with Banana and Pistachios
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Ron is on the cutting edge
of pastry right now, pushing the envelope in presentation with architecture-inspired
pieces. But the real focus of all those pretty plates is texture
and flavor, which he combines in novel ways. Herbs blend with fruit,
sweet balances with savory, and hot melts into cold in dishes inspired
by designs from around the city.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Milk Confit Cake, Grapefruit Sorbet, Pistachio Ice Cream and Pomegranate
- Smoked White Chocolate Mousse with Meyer lemon Saffron Granita
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Matthew’s wine selections
reflect his background in the kitchen before he discovered the allure
of the caves. Don’t look for a resume spouting fancy MS or
MW certifications. He's staunchly anti-establishment, refusing to
get a piece of paper to prove what is already in his head and palate.
Matthew is immensely amiable and business savvy, believing that
restaurants should quit committing “wine genocide” and
let their younger wines appreciate in their cellars for a few years.
THE PAIRING THAT CLINCHED IT:
- La Pialade, Cotes du Rhone, Chateau des Tours (Rayas), 2002, with
Duck Confit Salad, Satsuma Tangerines, Arugula and Pistachios
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Working behind the bar, Vincenzo
operates more like a kitchen chef, making use of the walk-in and
blending his own fruit purees. His drinks defy the sickly sweet
standards of cocktails that are popular these days and are perfectly
balanced in flavor, sweetness and perfume. He is deeply interested
in the mixology behind bartending and creating great drinks, helping
to begin a memorable dining experience at Providence.
THE DRINKS THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Golden Pomme: Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Amaretto, Passionfruit
Puree and Apple Juice
- Rhode Island Red: Herradura Silver Tequila, Chambord, Raspberries,
Agave Nectar and Ginger Beer
 WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STARS HOST CHEF SHINE: Gregg brings a
Midwest sensibility to his dishes at Ocean + Vine. He grew up and
worked in Wisconsin, where he frequented the local dairy farms.
His extensive cheese knowledge shines through in his dishes. Fresh
ingredients are what keep him inspired, so he spends his time off
foraging for mushrooms in the nearby mountains and scouring the
local farmers’ markets.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Salad Lyonnaise
- Braised Short Ribs in Red Wine with Beets and Salsify
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