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November 2006
When StarChefs traveled to Washington DC to taste
with the city’s top young chefs, we found a singular dominant
trend; whether Irish, Belgian, Japanese, French or American, DC
chefs embrace the idea of Modern American cuisine, finding inspiration
from the local seasonal offerings of neighboring Virginia and Maryland.
What makes our Rising Stars stand out? Each one crafts the local
and seasonal ingredients to fit their strong culinary philosophy
and tells a personal story with their menus. They are leaders in
the vanguard of DC dining whether it’s bistro fare, cocktails,
or fine dining, each one is taking chances to push their craft to
the next level.
2006 Washington DC Rising Stars
Click
here for more information about the Washington DC Rising
Stars Revue on December 13 at National Housing Center Atrium
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: The respect and love for
farms developed in his Dublin childhood have carried over into Armstrong’s
generous culinary philosophy. His self-described “pork fetish”
and the Irish roots at the base of his culinary experience are showcased
in decadent and playful dishes like Bacon, Egg, and Cheese. The
dish makes full use of the versatility of pork fat with a cured
and braised pork belly, seared to order, a tender crêpe with
ham and leeks, and rich golden cheddar foam.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Bacon, Egg and Cheese
- Carolina Black Bass with Orange-Braised Fennel
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Chittum grew up on Maryland’s
Eastern Shore and spent his youth fishing on the Chesapeake Bay.
He brings innovative twists to seasonal Modern American cuisine
but strives to bring a sense of comfort and ease to fine dining
while maintaining elegance. His hot chowder froth, which complements
a seasonal Maryland Rockfish, is his light and airy version of the
classic clam chowder. Fried Middle Neck clams and simple glazed
potatoes, leeks and celery complete the dish.|
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Rockfish with Celery, Clams, and Chowder Froth
- Malfatti with Porcini, Mascarpone and Parmiggiano Reggiano Cracker
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: As Executive Sous Chef of
Jean Georges, Conte worked closely with Vongerichten and
adopted the concept of simplicity. At The Oval Room, Conte
applies his refined sensibility in simple yet daring and composed
dishes, creating unlikely pairings like horseradish and beetroot
for successful bursts of clean flavor.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Tuna, Chipotle, Avocado and Crispy Tapioca
- Roasted Baby Beets, Passion Fruit Gelée, Horseradish and
Ice Wine Mignonette
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Cooper is a gregarious chef
with a dynamic personality who loves talking motorcycles and food.
His Modern American philosophy shines through in dishes like Truffled
Heirloom Potatoes with Garlic Cream, Crispy Pork Belly and Juniper-Infused
Sea Salt, where Cooper uses a delicate hand to transform ordinary
potatoes and pork belly into a composed and elegant dish. While
keeping things fresh and modern, it’s clear from the juniper-scented
salt, reminiscent of a classic French cure, and the smooth-as-silk
garlic cream, that Cooper’s schooling is grounded in the fundamentals
of classic French cooking.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Beaver Creek Farm Quail with Chestnut, Wild Rice and Apple Stuffing,
Boudin Blanc, Brussels Sprouts, and Blue Plum Mustard
- Truffled Heirloom Potatoes with Crispy Pork Belly, Garlic Cream
and Juniper-Infused Sea Salt
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: With his boundless curiosity
and unwillingness to allow culinary conventions to stand in the
way of evolution, Fukushima has managed to turn his kitchen at Café
Atlantico into one of the most innovative in the country. Inspired
by Jose Andres’ comment that the first three seconds of tasting
a food have the greatest impact, Fukushima has taken on the Wonka-esque
project of developing a meat-flavored chewing gum. While experimenting
with every available product and tool to improve on classic dishes
and develop new ones, Fukushima serves playful and personal compositions
like his Taste of India Chicken Wing, a bar snack inspired by the
chicken wing cooked in a cryovac and carefully de-boned at el
Bulli.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Taste of India Chicken Wing
- Organized Salad with Cabrales and Raspberries
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Seaver’s belief in
the minimal changing of high-quality, responsibly-sourced ingredients
comes through in dishes like a barely manipulated, lightly garnished
Walu with Sweet Potato Purée and Orange Parsley Salad. Beginning
with sustainable Walu (or white tuna), and using no more than lemon,
chili and parsley to highlight the fish’s inherent flavor,
Seaver builds a simple and delicious dish with smoke-infused water
rather than a traditional heavy stock or butter. In an age of reckless
fishing, Seaver is one of the few chefs in the country who strictly
serves sustainable fish and practices serious conscientiousness
when sourcing his products.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Toasted Almond and Garlic Soup with Grilled Radicchio
- Jalapeno-Crusted Walu with Sweet Potato Purée and Orange
Parsley Salad
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: As Executive Chef of Belga
Café in DC, Vandaele acts as a Belgian culinary ambassador,
using American and Asian ingredients to build dishes that celebrate
the rich history of Belgian cuisine and beer. His unconventional
beer pairings and use of beer throughout the cooking process result
in culturally and flavorfully rich dishes. His Endive Sushi begins
with the boiling of the classic Belgian vegetable in nutmeg and
curry-scented water. The Belgian endive is marinated classically
but then wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma and finished with an unconventional
orange-cardamom gelée and flying fish roe.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Belgian Endive Sushi with Prosciutto di Parma, Baby Arugula Salad
and Orange Cardamon Gelée
- Venison with Couscous Waffle and Truffles
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: After making his first hand-roll
at age seven, Yasutake was hooked and spent years cultivating the
craft with his family in Japan before deciding it was time to hone
his craft in the States. Yasutake is inspired by kitschy flavor
combinations and local products from the DC area, like Old Bay,
and enjoys playfully incorporating the idea or ingredient into his
Japanese framework. His Fish and Chips Roll expresses his distinct
sushi-making style of making Japanese raw fish accessible and fun,
beginning with a crispy tempura batter intensely flavored with dashi,
rolled in fragrant shiso and nori and topped with a quenelle of
fluke tartare. The roll is garnished with a wasabi tartar sauce
sweetened with pickled ginger rather than the traditional chopped
cornichons.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Smoked Toro with Wasabi Gelée and Watermelon
- Fish and Chips Roll
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: It’s clear during a
meal at CityZen that Ziebold has thought out every detail
of the dining experience, from the minutia of the bread service
which he serves in cigar boxes inspired by a thrift store find,
to the starring main dishes. Ziebold’s eight years with Thomas
Keller provided invaluable experience with one of the best chefs
in the country, and an insight into American fine dining. In DC
he showcases his particular style of Modern American with inspired
creations like Foie Gras Shabu Shabu, a French influenced, Asian-inspired
dish where the foie gras is poached tableside.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
-Tartiflette of Yukon Gold Potato Mille Feuille with Frisée
Lettuce, Crispy Shoat Confit and Warm Brillat Savarin
- Foie Gras Shabu Shabu
- The Mini Parker House Rolls
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Chittum enjoys building simple
desserts that play with sweet and savory seasonal ingredients from
local farmers. In dishes like her Big City ‘Smores, the architectural
sensibility learned from mentor Richard, and the simple, homey appeal
of Lisa Scruggs’ desserts come together in a playful recreation
of the American campfire snack. A shot glass of milk is presented
next to a sophisticated tower of bittersweet chocolate and chocolate
mousse, bruléed marshmallow fluff, all balancing on a buttery
tart shell.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Big City ‘Smores
- Pipes Dreams Goat's Milk Cheesecake with Cherry Compote and Almond
Florentine
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Lahreche’s appetite
for knowledge and commitment to the scientific method best define
his passionate pastry philosophy. His desserts reflect this passion,
but keep in mind classic French flavors and techniques while lightening
and rethinking them for the Modern American diner. In desserts like
the Hazelnut Suprême, Lahreche uses small touches like a few
cubes of intensely flavored coffee gelée and airy chocolate
crémeux to rework and lighten a classic French flavor profile.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Hazelnut Suprême
- Pineapple Tatin with Lemon Chibouste
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Wellings has a simultaneously
sensual and intellectual approach to food. He seems to deconstruct
flavor profiles and rebuild them in unexpected and always successful
ways. His point of view when it comes to the ideas of hot versus
cold, soft versus crisp and flavors, knows no limits. Wellings defines
his distinctive style with dishes like his deconstructed “Tiramisu.”
The dish is a study in the classic Italian dessert with added textural
impact and intensified flavors. The mascarpone normally folded into
a cream is frozen into a smooth sorbet while the coffee flavor imparted
to the ladyfingers is made into a sweet and salty crumble and concentrated
syrup. A crisp cocoa tuile and concentrated amaretto jelly complete
the intensified flavor profile of a tiramisu.
THE DISHES THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Milk Chocolate Crema with Chicory Powder
- “Tiramisu”
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Thrasher adopts the spirit
of innovation and alta cocina attitude to mixology, incorporating
foams, hot and cold airs and techniques from the savory kitchen
to create cocktails. While his favorite drink to sip on is a classic
Captain Morgan and Coke, the whimsical and layered cocktails that
Thrasher composes range from retro favorites like Pick Your Onion
Gibson and the Bittersweet Gin Fizz that feature Thrasher’s
home-made tonic water. Never one to rest in his comfort zone, Thrasher
is experimenting with cocktails that go beyond liquor, marrying
liquor and wine in drinks that change with the season’s available
fruits and vegetables.
THE DRINK THAT CLINCHED IT:
- Eamonn’s Cocktail
WHAT
MAKES THIS RISING STAR SHINE: Brown has a drive and determination
that really sets her apart; she is pursuing her Master Sommelier
degree with the Court of Master Sommeliers. At Charlie Palmer
Steakhouse, she matches Bryan Voltaggio’s cuisine with
sophisticated American wines. Some of her favorite matches include
an inky Russian River Syrah with Voltaggio’s slow-braised
short ribs, and a sparkling rosé with a simple, seared foie
gras. She rises to the challenge of navigating the all-American
wine list and veering guests whose preferences lie with Old World
wines towards an American bottle comparable in quality and taste.
Brown also plans to record CDs teaching the proper pronunciation
of wines, grapes, and regions.
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