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FEATURES

 

Spring Dishes Fit for a Celebration at Daniel Patterson’s Coi

 

Top Pairs vol. 12: Pairing Wine and Dessert at San Francisco’s Commis

 

Sherry at Gitane: Making a Comeback on the Wine List

 

 

Featured Video

  Interview with Chef David Kinch of Manresa – San Francisco, CA

 

 

PHOTOS

  New York
 

Chef Jeremy Bearman and Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier of Rouge Tomate

 

Chef Masato Nishihara of Kajitsu

   

Malaysia Kitchen for the World Luncheon at FCI

 

San Francisco and Environs:

 

Chef David Kinch and Chef de Cuisine John Paul Carmona of Manresa

 

Chef Peter Armellino of The Plumed Horse

 

Chef Phil West and Mixologist Brooke Arthur of Range

 

Chef Vernon Morales of Town Hall

 

Chef Ron Siegel of The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton

 

Chef Adam Timney of Starbelly

 

Chef Joshua Skenes and Sommelier Mark Bright of Saison

 

Chef Chad Newton of Fish & Farm

 

Chef Daniel Patterson and Pastry Chef Bill Corbett of Coi

 

Chef Michael Morrison and Mixologist Elaine Danoff of Coco 500

 

Campton Place

 

Chef Srijith Gopinathan and Sommelier Richard Dean of Campton Place Restaurant

 

Chef de Cuisine Sarah Burchard of Barbacco

 

Chef Jamie Lauren of Absinthe Brasserie

 

Chef Scott Nishiyama of Chez TJ

 

Rosewood Sand Hill Resort

 

Chef Guillaume Bienaimé and Pastry Chef Adrienne Garcia of Marché

 

Chef de Cuisine Anna Bautista and Mixologist Lulu Almaguer of Madera

 

Chef James Syhabout, Pastry Chef Carlos Salgado, and Sommelier Sarah Valor of Commis

 

Los Angeles:

  Chef Joseph Mahon of Bastide in Los Angeles
  Luxe Hotel Sunset Boulevard

 

Letter From the Editor Vol.58

Spring Has Sprung in San Francisco

March 15, 2010

We're in the midst of our third trip to San Francisco and it's clear that spring is arriving earlier than out East—and after the long, snowy winter we've had in New York, it's more welcome than ever. We've already seen rhubarb, asparagus, morels, and other signs that spring has sprung in the City by the Bay. And it's not just the produce that's noteworthy—it’s what the local chefs are doing with it. From the Peninsula to Oakland, and from haute cuisine to rustic pizza, San Francisco is a classic food town bursting with fresh energy. Down in Menlo Park, Saratoga, Mountain View, and even as far down as Los Gatos, chefs are cooking some of the best food, not just in the Bay Area, but in the country. 

Echoing what we're seeing across the country, rustic Italian is a hot commodity in San Francisco’s kitchens—not surprising given the city’s Italian immigrant heritage. There's no shortage of excellent comforting pizza and pasta outlets, including Gialina (Chef/Owner Sharon Ardiana), A16 (Chef Liza Shaw), SPQR (Chef Matthew Accarino), Pizzeria Delfina (Chef Anthony Strong and Owner Craig Stoll), Flour + Water (Chef Thomas McNaughton), and Barbacco (Chef de Cuisine Sarah Burchard). It’s an embarrassment of riches, really, a pizza mosaic of top-notch ingredients with a rustic edge, concentrated in one location.

Beyond the incredible pizza, San Francisco has a brilliant spectrum of interpretive fine and casual dining, all with a similar premium on local, top-quality ingredients. You’ll find elegant, sophisticated fine dining at Gary Danko with Chef Martin Brock, at Spruce with Chef Ben Cohn, or at Chez Papa under the care of 2005 San Francisco Rising Star David Bazirgan. Chef Joshua Skenes’ Saison does an upscale take on dine and dash, with all the elements of fine dining contoured to suit a three-night per week pop-up schedule.

And like any self-respecting culinary hub, San Francisco boasts its fair share of comfort food, innards, off-cuts, and generally the kind of satisfying food chefs love, at industry-happy spots like Chef Adam Timney’s Star Belly or Chris Kronner’s Bar Tartine. And if you’re looking for deep satisfaction on every level, look no further than Deepak Kaul’s soulful seasonal cuisine, delicately suffused with Middle Eastern spices and influences, at Serpentine.

We finally had the opportunity to taste Chef Daniel Patterson's cuisine at Coi, where he delivers an experience that is not to be forgotten. Patterson goes out foraging every morning and sources the best, freshest ingredients to create dishes that appear simple, but are in fact technique-intensive. Check out several of his recipes and a video interview with him in our Spring Dinner feature. We were thrilled to find 2007 New York Rising Star Pastry Chef Bill Corbett behind the playful, exquisite desserts. We hadn’t gotten enough of Patterson’s food, so we dropped in on his first go at a casual sandwich shop, il Cane Rosso, in the food mecca that has become the Ferry Building, where Chef Doug Borkowski prepares porchetta, sandwiches, and simple, awesome sides like Warm Cauliflower Salad with Mizuna, Currants, Pine Nuts, and Rosemary Vinaigrette.

At Chef David Kinch’s legendary fine dining restaurant Manresa, Chef de Cuisine John Paul Carmona proves that you can respect the ingredients and let them shine while also applying contemporary technique. His dishes are elegant, innovative, and simply stunning. Check out our video interview with Chef/Owner David Kinch as he talks about the importance of using quality local ingredients, the thrill of training young chefs, dining in Japan, and Manresa’s business model, which incorporates an intimate, creative connection with Love Apple Farm.

Speaking of training young chefs, Chez TJ has turned out some incredible chefs in the past, including Napa and Sonoma Rising Star Chef Christopher Kostow. Chef Scott Nishiyama has recently taken the helm of the kitchen and hasn't missed a beat with sophisticated dishes that are a creative and refined expression of Chez TJ’s celebrated legacy of commitment to local produce.

While Bay Area landmarks like Chez TJ are getting new chefs, chefs are also getting new digs. 2007 Rising Star Chef Peter Rudolph at the newly opened Madera at Rosewood Sand Hill has assembled a great team with Chef de Cuisine Anna Bautista and Mixologist Lulu Almager. The restaurant’s centerpiece wood-burning grill is put to some of its best work for an incredible grilled rabbit loin, part of a dish with rabbit done four ways that combines complexity, intensity, and a brilliant variety of flavor.  And at the recently redesigned Plumed Horse, the three-story, 20,000 bottle, glass-encased wine cellar is a towering, temporary distraction from Chef Peter Armellino’s elegant but comfort-food-friendly Californian cuisine.

If Commis is any indication of the level of food that is happening here, the East Bay is in great shape. 2007 Rising Star James Syhabout is cooking exciting, experimental cuisine and Pastry Chef Carlos Salgado is following suit with fresh, high-concept desserts like Goat's Milk Panna Cotta with Winter Citrus, Pistachio, and Beet-Blood Orange Sorbet. Sommelier Sarah Valor doesn't skip a beat, pairing unusual funky wines that work with all the various elements on the plate. Especially noteworthy are her dessert pairings, which reach far out of the box and stay away from those sweet wines we've come to expect; read more in our latest edition of Top Pairs.

Valor isn’t the only one in the Bay Area with a fresh take on wine pairing. Wine Director Sean Diggins of Gitane has built an extensive sherry list that proves this fortified wine deserves a second look. He also shows that they're not just after dinner drinks, pairing with Chef Lisa Eyherabide's North African-inspired French cuisine. Read more about Diggins' efforts to educate the culinary community and guests in the Making The Case for Sherry feature , and be sure to check out our video interview with Diggins, too.

San Francisco might be foremost on our minds—and in our bellies—but this week we’ll be celebrating some of Southern California’s young culinary stars with the StarChefs.com 2010 Los Angeles-San Diego Rising Stars, this Thursday, March 18th, at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel  & Bungalows.

And don’t forget to send in your nominations for New York and Washington, DC Rising Star chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers, mixologists, restaurateurs, and for our Sustainability Award, Restaurant Concept, and Community Award!

As always, we love hearing from you! Be sure to become a fan of StarChefs.com on Facebook and follow me on Twitter to keep up with where I’m going and what I’m eating.


Cheers!
Antoinette Bruno
Editor-in-Chief

 


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