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  Pictures from a Recent Editorial Trip through San Francisco:
  Brick
  Delfina
  Maverick
  Range
  Terzo
     
  Features:
  San Francisco Rationale
  Mother’s Day Brunch
  Spring Farmer’s Market
  On the Plate vol.9
  Experimental Cuisine Collective

 

Letter From the Editor Vol.15

Savory San Francisco

April 2007

In our last letter we took a tour of San Francisco’s dynamic pastry scene, from funky Chili Brulees and Epoisse to classic Profiteroles and Pithiviers. This week we take a look at some notable savory chefs from the trip, and announce our 2007 San Francisco Rising Stars!

Mark Gordon, executive chef of the neighborhood favorite Rose’s Café, is running a completely different, very grown-up small plates concept across the street at Terzo with an eclectic, Mediterranean menu. Mark waves through the windows at his regulars walking their dogs or stopping in for a glass of wine from a list that Mark built himself. The menu is mostly inspired by Mark’s travels through Europe and North Africa and everything is delicious – from the layered Romesco sauce that tops a perfectly cooked piece of fish to the focaccia with an intensely olive oil-flavored center and lots of bite.

Noah Tucker creates high-concept soul food at Brick with dishes like his Chicken Wing – the meat removed and gently confited then reassembled on a completely cleaned bone and wrapped with cornstarch for a sticky pseudo-chicken skin that’s fried and painted with a sweet and spicy glaze. To dip, and to complete the chicken wing concept, an intensely flavored, but texturally light blue cheese foam.

At Craig Stoll’s Delfina the menu reads like a dream for rustic food-lovers: beef tongue, tripe, lots of house-cured goodies, and lovely bare-boned pasta dishes like gnocchi dressed only with a simple ragu. Scott Youkilis runs a totally new restaurant concept, Maverick, an intimate eatery with a small menu and even smaller kitchen that has the warm, welcoming feel of a family-run joint. During the restaurant’s opening, Scott’s father scoured e-bay for Maverick paraphernalia, which now ranges from vintage lifestyle magazines with Maverick cowboys on the cover to old Maverick beer cans. The space in the Mission has all the character of a ship’s galley with worn dark wood and old American maps under glass on the walls. The food mirrors the space with hearty, American regional dishes served from the open kitchen that fits no more than three cooks, even on a busy Saturday night. Get a feel for his accessible, unpretentious dishes in this year’s Mother’s Day menu with a recipe for Scott’s Duck Hash with Red Wine-Poached Egg.

Phil West is right at the heart of seasonal West Coast cuisine at Range, using a variety of local fruits, vegetables, and greens to compliment his dishes that are fresh, seasonal, and in tune with San Francisco dining. What sets him above the rest? Phil’s dishes are well-executed and thoughtful but they don’t rely on the quality of his ingredients (which just happens to be very, very high). Sure, he’s letting his products do the talking, but in dishes like his wild nettle stuffed pasta with goat cheese and olive oil, the simple trio of flavors is especially eloquent, thanks to Phil. For seasonal recipes from Phil, see our Spring Farmer’s Market feature.

Stick around for more on these chefs and others who are inspiring our upcoming Spring features! And now to introduce our San Francisco Rising Stars


Cheers!
Antoinette Bruno
Editor-in-Chief

 

 


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