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Vol.15 Savory San Francisco
April 2007
In our last letter we took a tour of San Francisco’s dynamic
pastry scene, from funky Chili Brulees and Epoisse to classic Profiteroles
and Pithiviers. This week we take a look at some notable savory
chefs from the trip, and announce our 2007 San Francisco Rising
Stars!
Mark Gordon, executive chef of the neighborhood favorite Rose’s
Café, is running a completely different, very grown-up
small plates concept across the street at Terzo
with an eclectic, Mediterranean menu. Mark waves through the windows
at his regulars walking their dogs or stopping in for a glass of
wine from a list that Mark built himself. The menu is mostly inspired
by Mark’s travels through Europe and North Africa and everything
is delicious – from the layered Romesco sauce that tops a
perfectly cooked piece of fish to the focaccia with an intensely
olive oil-flavored center and lots of bite.
Noah Tucker creates high-concept soul food at Brick
with dishes like his Chicken Wing – the meat removed and gently
confited then reassembled on a completely cleaned bone and wrapped
with cornstarch for a sticky pseudo-chicken skin that’s fried
and painted with a sweet and spicy glaze. To dip, and to complete
the chicken wing concept, an intensely flavored, but texturally
light blue cheese foam.
At Craig Stoll’s Delfina
the menu reads like a dream for rustic food-lovers: beef tongue,
tripe, lots of house-cured goodies, and lovely bare-boned pasta
dishes like gnocchi dressed only with a simple ragu. Scott Youkilis
runs a totally new restaurant concept, Maverick, an intimate eatery
with a small menu and even smaller kitchen that has the warm, welcoming
feel of a family-run joint. During the restaurant’s opening,
Scott’s father scoured e-bay for Maverick paraphernalia, which
now ranges from vintage lifestyle magazines with Maverick
cowboys on the cover to old Maverick beer cans. The space in the
Mission has all the character of a ship’s galley with worn
dark wood and old American maps under glass on the walls. The food
mirrors the space with hearty, American regional dishes served from
the open kitchen that fits no more than three cooks, even on a busy
Saturday night. Get a feel for his accessible, unpretentious dishes
in this year’s Mother’s
Day menu with a recipe for Scott’s Duck Hash
with Red Wine-Poached Egg.
Phil West is right at the heart of seasonal West Coast cuisine
at Range,
using a variety of local fruits, vegetables, and greens to compliment
his dishes that are fresh, seasonal, and in tune with San Francisco
dining. What sets him above the rest? Phil’s dishes are well-executed
and thoughtful but they don’t rely on the quality of his ingredients
(which just happens to be very, very high). Sure, he’s letting
his products do the talking, but in dishes like his wild nettle
stuffed pasta with goat cheese and olive oil, the simple trio of
flavors is especially eloquent, thanks to Phil. For seasonal recipes
from Phil, see our Spring
Farmer’s Market feature.
Stick around for more on these chefs and others who are inspiring
our upcoming Spring features! And now to introduce our San
Francisco Rising Stars…
Cheers!
Antoinette Bruno
Editor-in-Chief
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