|
Vol.13 What Makes a Rising Star Shine?
March 2007
Readers were surprised when they heard we were taking our Rising
Stars awards to Dallas. They expected we’d find a foodservice
chain-land – devoid of exciting, inspired cuisine that could
stand up to what we’d celebrated in other award cities across
the country. But as I mentioned in my last letter, Dallas proved
them wrong, and in the process reminded us that preconceptions are
often incorrect.
We’ve done 16 Rising Stars in 11 cities, each researched extensively
and planned down to the minute. We come prepared, but each city inevitably
holds surprises as we spend three weeks tasting and interviewing nearly
100 chefs across town. At the end of the day, it’s not age that
makes a Rising Star, or a particular style of cuisine, or even a specific
position, but rather a cogent, compelling, personal philosophy that
speaks as clearly from the plate as from the chef’s mouth. Be
it unexpected flavor or textural combinations that challenge and excite
the palate, well-conceived dish ideas or perfectly-executed techniques,
it’s ultimately the creativity and perspective that a chef brings
to their craft that earns them the award. Not to mention, obviously,
damn good food.
A sense of community, openness and leadership factor heavily as
well. We look for leaders, like Dallas Sommelier James Tidwell,
co-founder of the Texas Sommelier Association, and for teachers,
like Will Goldfarb, who sells his own line of stabilizers and emulsifiers
with detailed instructions and recipes attached. For activists,
like Franklin Becker, author of a diabetic’s cookbook, and
Barton Seaver, who works closely with DC Central Kitchen and Share
Our Strength. We look for passionate artisans, like Iacopo Falai,
whose complexly-flavored homemade breads and pastas are highlights
at his three Lower East Side restaurants, and for the relentlessly
creative, who are day-by-day shaping the future of food –
today in their local markets, tomorrow on a national scale.
In 2006 we began publishing the rationale behind our Rising Star
selections. These features are designed to give a sense of what
makes our Rising Stars shine, so to speak, but I’m afraid
they’ve been a bit hidden in the depths of the site. I’m
calling attention to them now, hoping you will learn more about
these individuals who we feel are shaping American cuisine not only
in their city, but on a national level. Perhaps you’ll be
inspired to look them up when you’re in their town, or even
call them and talk shop, as one chef to another, thereby continuing
to foster the community of openness, creativity, and exchange of
ideas that is ultimately the goal of StarChefs.com, our magazine,
and our Rising Stars Awards.
Next time you’re in Dallas, for example, go see Tre Wilcox,
the self-confident chef running the kitchen at Abacus who’s
not afraid to discuss how corporate training for a national food
chain shaped his skills as a leader. Or Lanny Lancarte’s self-titled
Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana, where alta cocina is
no overstatement. From humble roots in his parents’ casual
Mexican eateries in Fortworth, Lanny has emerged as one of the nation’s
top Mexican chefs. But chances are you’ve never heard of him.
Same with Anthony Bombaci of Nana, whose beautiful, precise,
creative dishes are sophisticated and worldly, reflecting his nine
years spent cooking in Barcelona with some of Spain’s most
innovative chefs, including Ferran Adrià, Sergi Arola and
Joan Roca.
In other news, we’ve published the results of our 2006 salary
survey. Our third annual survey of the national restaurant industry
examines worker wages and benefits by city, position and age, and
is based on data collected from over 3,000 chefs across the country.
Where do you stand? Find out now.
Cheers!
Antoinette Bruno
Editor-in-Chief
Please provide feedback
on this feature or other content on our site by CLICKING
HERE.
|
starchefs.com
