The cream whipper—a standard piece of
equipment for aerating concentrated bases into cold or hot froths,
foams, creams and sauces—is traditionally charged with a
steel cream charger containing 8 grams of N2O,
or nitrous oxide. While soda siphons and their respective CO2
chargers can be used to carbonate any liquid, Mark Andelbradt
screws a CO2 charger into his cream whipper
for a hybridized brand of carbonation, creating »fizzy tomatoes«
that fizzle and pop in the mouth.
STEP 1: Place tomatoes into
an iSi cream whipper.
STEP 2: Charge with 2 CO2
cartridges and refridgerate for 4 hours.
STEP 3: Gently release the gas and unscrew the
top from the cream whipper. Remove tomatoes with a spoon and serve
immediately.
Method:
For the Tomato Sorbet:
Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Score and blanch the plum
tomatoes. Shock in ice water and peel away the skin. Cut tomatoes
in half and remove the seeds by giving a gentle squeeze. In a
sauce pan, heat the peeled and seeded tomatoes with the remaining
ingredients and bring to a low simmer for 5 minutes. Puree until
smooth and strain through a chinois. Chill mixture in fridge.
Once cool, spin in the ice cream machine. Reserve in freezer until
use. It's best to prepare this recipe the night before.
For the Fizzy Tomatoes:
Blanch, shock, and peel the tomatoes using the same method as
the sorbet. Segment the citrus and cut each segment into 2 or
3 pieces. Place the pieces of tomatoes, citrus segments, vinegar,
and mirin into an iSi whipped cream canister. Charge the canister
with 2 CO2 cartridges and refrigerate for
4 hours.
For the Live King Crab Salad:
Mix the King Crab with the lemon oil, chives, salt and pepper
to taste.
To Assemble:
Divide the salad into 4 equal portions use a 1½-inch ring
mold to shape each one. Place each molded crab salad in the center
of 4 shallow bowls. Release the gas from the iSi canister and
gently remove the citrus and tomato mixture. Spoon the Fizzy Tomatoes
and pieces of citrus around the crab. Place a quenelle of tomato
sorbet on top of the crab and finish with a generous dollop of
Oscetra caviar.
Published: August 2006