December 2008

TECHNIQUE: Sweetbreads Roulade with Fried Green Tomatoes, Apricots, and Romaine
Chef Daniel Newell of Restaurant Zoë – Seattle, WA


his is a clever twist on sweetbreads, with a chicken mousse stuffing that gives a little something extra to the tender, poached interior and crisped exterior. Chef Daniel Newell’s technique isn’t about adding an outlandish component to the ‘breads, but rather to complement them with a subtle, yet simple addition. The mousse – easily made using chicken, garlic, and cream – offers a light texture and meaty flavor similar to the usual spongy insides of cooked sweetbreads, and fits right into the equation.

Step 1: Degorge, blanch, and peel sweetbreads.
Step 2: Butterfly sweetbreads and place on plastic wrap.
Step 3: Lay stuffing in middle of sweetbreads and wrap roulade four times. Tie ends tightly.
Step 4: Poach the roulade in a water bath until it reaches an internal temperature of 140ºF.
Step 5: Slice roulade into rounds and fry in hot oil until crispy.

Sweetbreads Roulade with Fried Green Tomatoes, Apricots, and Romaine
Chef Daniel Newell of Restaurant Zoë – Seattle, WA
Adapted by

Yield: 6 Servings


    Sweetbreads Roulade:
    + Click to enlarge
  • 8 ounces boneless and skinless chicken breasts, chilled
  • 4 cloves garlic confit
  • Salt
  • ½ cup heavy cream, chilled
  • 1 pound whole sweetbreads, degorged, blanched and peeled

    Fried Green Tomatoes:
  • ½ cup Champagne vinegar
  • 1½ cups extra virgin olive oil
  • 6 slices green tomato, ¼-inch thick
  • 1 tablespoon brunoise shallots
  • Salt

    Apricot Puree:
  • 1 cup dried apricots
  • 3 ounces white wine
  • 1½ ounces honey
  • 1 teaspoon grated or minced orange zest
  • Salt

    Egg Sauce:
  • 1 soft boiled egg, peeled
  • ¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar
  • 1½ ounces water
  • Salt
  • 2 ounces grapeseed oil

    To Assemble and Serve:

  • 1 sweetbreads roulade
  • 6 slices romaine, cut horizontally into ¼-inch thick “rounds”
  • 1 cup apricot puree
  • ½ cup egg sauce
  • Sea salt


For the Sweetbreads Roulade: 
Place bowl and blade of a food processor in the freezer for 20 minutes. Add chicken, garlic, and salt to the processor bowl and mix while slowly adding in cream until smooth. Pass mixture through a tamis and reserve. Butterfly the sweetbreads and place on plastic wrap. Place the chicken mousse along the entire middle of the sweetbread and use the plastic to roll the sweetbread into a roulade. Wrap with more plastic another four times. Use butcher’s twine to tie the ends of the roll, and twist the roulade tightly. Insert roulade in a 150°F water bath, keeping it fully submerged until an internal temperature of 140ºF is reached. Remove from the water and put into an ice bath until chilled. 

For the Fried Green Tomatoes:
Whisk together shallots, vinegar, and olive oil and season. Marinate the tomatoes in vinaigrette for 3-4 hours before serving.

For the Apricot Puree:
Combine apricots, wine, honey, and orange zest together in pan and bring up to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes and transfer to a blender. Puree, strain through a chinois, and season.

For the Egg Sauce:
Combine egg, mustard, vinegar, water, and salt in a blender and puree while slowly adding in oil. Add salt to taste.

To Assemble and Serve: 
Trim ends of the sweetbreads roulade and slice it into 2-inch rounds. Fry the sweetbreads rounds and tomato slices in a pan until crispy. Place a dollop of warmed apricot puree onto the center of a plate. Place tomato slice on top and smear another layer of puree on top of the tomato. Layer the romaine round on top and smear a little more puree onto the romaine. Lay roulade round on top of the romaine and spoon the egg sauce around the sweetbread.  Garnish with a sprinkling salt.

  Published: December 2008