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Graham Brown

Fri, 05/30/2008 - 20:26
Submitted by admin_rg
Graham Brown
The Cookhouse New Zealand

Tuesday, September 16 09:00AM—10:10AM

Sustainable, Local, Up-Close: Working with Farmers, and with Cervena Venison Savory Workshop


As executive chef and international ambassador for Cervena® Venison since 1991, New Zealand Chef (and deer farm owner!) Graham Brown has traveled the world promoting the virtues of the New Zealand farmed venison to chefs and consumers through demonstrations at top culinary schools and participation in top food shows and events worldwide.

Brown began his entrepreneurial culinary career as the chef-owner of the critically acclaimed Scarborough Fare in Christchurch, which he opened in 1983. The restaurant consistently received top awards nationally and regionally and was the recipient of 3 toques for excellent food and service from the Australian Food & Accommodation Guide. In 1987, Scarborough Fare was awarded the prestigious Montana Listener BYO Restaurant of the Year, and in 1991 the Michael Guy Perrier award for best BYO and runner-up for “Best Overall” restaurant in New Zealand. Graham was also awarded “Chef of the Nation” in 1989.

With more than 35 years of experience in the restaurant and hospitality industries, Brown has received numerous awards and appointments from professional organizations worldwide. He has proudly served as Team New Zealand’s captain in the 1997 Culinary Olympics in Vancouver, where the team distinguished itself by winning both a gold and silver medal, and the 1988 Culinary Olympics in Frankfurt with a Gold award.

At his home base, The Cookhouse, which operates on Brown’s own 25-acre deer farm in Christchurch, he holds customized “agri-culinary” classes for small groups. Three months a year, Brown travels internationally as a chef consultant for top food companies and government food promotion agencies from New Zealand, a country that is increasingly earning a deserved reputation for the quality of its food exports.


Cervena Venison Loin with Osso Buco Ravioli and Pinot Noir-Cracked Pepper Jus
Chef Graham Brown of The Cookhouse – Christchurch, New Zealand
Adapted by

Yield: 6 Servings


Osso Buco Ravioli:
• 4 pieces Cervena venison osso bucco
• Salt and pepper
• All-purpose flour for dusting
• ½ cup olive oil
• 1 carrot, diced
• 1 celery rib, diced
• 1 small red onion, diced
• 1 leek (white part only), diced
• 1 cup Shiraz or similar full-bodied red wine
• ¼ cup tomato puree
• 1 teaspoon thyme
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• Zest of ½ lemon
• 200 milliliters (1/3 pint) meat stock (venison if possible)
• 12 to 18 small wonton skins or ravioli dough
• 1 tablespoon flour

Pommes Fondant:
• 4 medium potatoes, peeled
• Chicken stock as needed
• 4 teaspoons melted butter
• Salt
• White pepper

Pinot-Cracked Pepper Jus:
• 3 shallots, chopped finely
• 1 ounce butter
• 1 teaspoon cracked pepper
• 6 ounces Pinot Noir
• 8 ounces strong beef or venison stock
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch or arrowroot
• Salt and pepper
• Red wine vinegar as needed

Venison Loin:
• 1 Cervena venison shortloin, skin and chain removed (800 grams/1½ pounds)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Coarsely ground mixed peppercorns

To Assemble and Serve:
• Porcini powder
• Cooked seasonal vegetables
• Fried parsnip peels


For the Osso Buco:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Season osso buco with salt and pepper, dredge in flour and shake off all excess flour. Heat a large heavy pan over medium heat; add olive oil and sear osso buco on both sides until it has a good, rich colour. Remove from pan. Add carrot, celery, onion and leek and lightly caramelize. Deglaze with red wine and reduce by half. Add tomato puree, thyme, garlic, lemon zest, and stock. Return osso buco back to pan and bring to a simmer, cover with lid and braise in oven until meat is tender and pulling away from the bone, about 1 hour. Remove from pan, cover, and let meat and braising liquid cool. Remove meat from bone, discard any heavy silver skin, and finely dice. Mix shredded meat with a portion of the vegetables from braising liquid and enough gelatinous braising liquid to make a very moist filling. Put a teaspoon or so of the filling in center of half the wonton skins or ravioli squares; top with another skin/dough and seal. Cut into 1½-inch ravioli, leaving enough seal so that it stays together when cooked. Dust with flour to prevent from sticking.

For the Pommes Fondant:
Preheat oven to 380°F. Cut potatoes into 1½ inches-by-¾ inch cylinders. Place standing up in a small dish and pour in enough chicken stock to come half way up. Drizzle each with melted butter and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Bake uncovered in oven for 40 minutes.

For the Pinot-Cracked Pepper Jus:
Sauté shallots in butter until very soft. Add cracked pepper and deglaze pan with Pinot Noir. Add stock and reduce to taste; thicken if necessary with cornstarch or arrowroot mixed with a tablespoon of cold water. Season with salt and pepper to taste; add a few drops of vinegar to adjust acidity.

For the Venison Loin:
Preheat oven to 140°C/320°F. Sear venison in a heavy pan. Brush on mustard and coat generously with peppercorn. Roast for about 30 minutes.

To Assemble and Serve:
Cook ravioli in boiling water for 2 minutes. Cut loin into 12 even slices and place 2 slices on plate. Place ravioli on top of potato so it looks like a mushroom; dust with porcini powder. Arrange cooked seasonal vegetables on plate. Garnish with crispy fried parsnip peels seasoned with sea salt. Drizzle plate with pinot jus.

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