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StarChefs
top pairing

Top Pair: Lunchbox Reverie, PB&J for Adults

by Jeff Harding with photos by Antoinette Bruno
Vol. 20
February 2012   
Restaurant
  • Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar
  • 1310 Boylston Street
  • Boston, MA 02215
  • (617) 450-9000
  • www.citizenpub.com
Who
  • Sommelier Joy Richard
  • Beverage Manager Joy Richard has spent over 20 years behind the bar and on the floor, mixing drinks and creating cocktail lists. With four kinds of ice and 75 whiskeys from around the world featured at Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar in Boston, Massachusetts, Richard has her hands full. But her wine chops are top notch, as we saw on our last visit, and her pairings make Chef Brian Reyelt’s creations even more memorable.

Wine
Roussanne, Truchard Vineyards, Carneros, California, 2009
Dish
Foie Gras PB&J with Potato Sticks
Pairing Note

Reyelt’s foie gras PB&J sandwich with potato sticks was a play on his favorite childhood snack, invoking the past, but with modern technique and adult ingredients. An homage to Eric Hana and David Burke’s foie gras creation, Reyert updates the peanut butter in the mix by combining cashew butter and a little Sherry with the foie, then adding sweetness with strawberry jam. Crunchy potato sticks provide a salty finish.

Richard pulls you out of the reverie, and into a lovely nuanced snack, with a glass of Truchard Roussanne. The richness of the foie demands a full-bodied wine like Chardonnay, but the acidity of the Roussanne gives that little something extra, cleansing the palate for the next bite. Normally foie gras is paired with a sweet wine, and there’s just enough residual sugar to satisfy that craving. The pairing even makes a nice match with the salty fries. Thirty percent malolactic fermentation and six months sur lie bring out the funky creaminess in the foie mixture. Bright citrus and full minerality complete the picture, making sure you taste the strawberry jam, and notice the briny, nutty Sherry accent. Next stop: Scooby-Doo lunchbox search on eBay.

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