Louisiana Meets Mexico at Johnny Sánchez

By Caroline Hatchett | Will Blunt

By

Caroline Hatchett
Will Blunt
Blue Crab Sopes, Burrata, Louisiana Bowfin Caviar, and Cilantro
Blue Crab Sopes, Burrata, Louisiana Bowfin Caviar, and Cilantro

Cultures collide on the plate at Johnny Sánchez, New Orleans’ Mexican-via-Louisiana restaurant from Chefs John Besh and Áaron Sánchez. Perhaps the most convincing (read: delicious) example of this new style of Mexican-Gulf cuisine is Rising Star Chef Miles Landrem’s Blue Crab Sopes. “It’s a riff on an August classic, just Mexican,” he says. Landrem incorporates roasted corn kernels to his masa dough, which helps the sopes puff up in the pork fat fryer. From there, the dish veers strongly toward Landrem’s fine-dining past. He tops the fluffy, crunchy sopes with burrata, beurre monté-dressed crab, and Louisiana bowfin caviar. (There’s also Tabasco, cilantro, and serranos for good measure.) The result: a dish that’s a potent memory of Mexican street food—courtesy of intense corn flavor and fresh cheese—presented as an ultra-luxurious entrada.

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