San Foiecisco

By Sean Kenniff | Megan Swann | Will Blunt

By

Sean Kenniff
Megan Swann
Will Blunt
Collection of Foie Dishes | San Francisco, CA
Collection of Foie Dishes | San Francisco, CA

Like asparagus in spring, foie gras is ubiquitous in San Francisco. But it isn't seasonal, it's legal. More than a year after the foie ban fell, chefs are still embracing fatty duck liver like a deceased lover brought back to life. 

  1. Nicolas Delaroque sears and emulsifies foie with its own fat, hitting it with Port and Sherry vinegar to make a sauce for his asparagus, nettle, Buddha’s hand, and hazelnut dish at Nico.
  2. At Commonwealth, Michael Evans coats New York strip in a mixture of foie fat, maltodextrin, and beet leaf ash for an earthy dish with beets, red-veined sorrel, and sumac.
  3. Michael Rafidi ran out of mason jars at RN74 and improvised a luscious schmear of foie-chicken liver parfait adorned with rhubarb brûlée, chicken skin, mustard seeds, and verjus gelée.
  4. At Spruce, John Madriaga’s foie terrine is better than birthday cake with a layer of parsnip-brown butter cake and crème fraîche “icing.”
  5. Hillside Supper Club’s Tony Ferrari and Jonathan Sutt on riff on classic duck à l’orange with foie, orange sauce, snap peas, potato purée, and fingerling chips.
  6. And at Oro, Travis Day’s decadent hen roulade is stuffed with foie and accompanied by celery root and a Michel Bras-inspired barley sauce seasoned with foie salt.
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