While Western chefs explore the Japanese pantry like so many knife-toting kids in a candy store, chef-owners George Ruan and Jack Wei of the East Village’s Yuba are busy incorporating Western staples, like foie gras, truffle, and even sweet corn, into their self-described “Nouveaux Japanese” cuisine. Between 20-year veteran Wei and ambitious newcomer Ruan, the menu is as inventive as it is meticulous, whether the chefs are upping the savory ante with rich foie and an umami-rich kombu dashi or playing up the sweetness of meaty toro against the briney pop of sturgeon caviar. Earth tones, paper lanterns, and a clean wooden design create a scene-setting, palate-whetting quiet anticipation.
Recommended Dishes: