New York, NY 10017
Hours: Mon-Sat 12pm-3pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm; Sun 5pm-10pm
Shunning the overdressed exoticism of Curry Row, Chef Hemant Mathur’s Tulsi is all light and air, with a few elegant touches—rich woods and sparkling lanterns. Like his Michelin-starred Devi, Tulsi’s menu doesn’t break boundaries, but rather emphasizes regional flavors and products, in dishes like tender Kashmiri-style goat paired with kachumber salad, and chewy, surprisingly savory banana dumplings bathed in a rich, earthy gravy of figs, cashew, and tomato. Pastry Chef Surbhi Sahni’s desserts evoke the faraway flavors of India—nuts, fruits, spices, and herbs—with an irresistibly maternal hominess.