In the heavy foot traffic and shopping bag scuffle of Union Square, Tocqueville is all the more welcome, a nerves-calming oasis of warm tones and restrained elegance. But what’s most inviting about the restaurant is what’s behind the burners: Chef Jason Lawless is a young, confident chef to watch. His take on the restaurant’s modern American-European menu is full of clever integrations and elevations of flavor, with deft use of aromatics like lemon balm and star anise that brighten already addictive flavor profiles.
Recommended Dishes: