A semi-open kitchen runs the length of the long, airy, and elegant dining room of Boulud Sud, and it’s here that 2011 StarChefs.com New York Rising Star Chef Aaron Chambers creates cuisine that transports the Boulud standard to the golden coastline of the Riviera. Chambers’s quiet politeness belies his imagination and self-discipline, which churn out creations that showcase both classic technique—as in a bright, toothsome saffron and lemon linguini, which the chef pairs with local razor clams—and invention, as in a cedar-wood-wrapped rouget with layers of fennel, shallots, and espelette. Like the Riviera, it’s correctly posh, and just so subtly exotic.