Hay-smoked Local Rooster, Celeriac, Potato-Onion Soubise, and Cattails
For the Rooster Glaze:
Preheat oven to 500°F. Skin the rooster and reserve skin for another use. Break down bird and debone. Reserve meat for smoking. Roast bones in oven until dark in color and fat has rendered off. Place bones in stock pot and cover with cold water. Place on burner and bring to a boil. Remove scum and foam and add mirepoix and sachet. Lower heat and simmer for 6 to 7 hours, skimming fat as needed. Strain over an ice bath and chill. Strain once again into tall saucepot and bring to 190°F.
In a separate saucepot, combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil and reduce to light caramel. Deglaze with Sherry vinegar and return to a simmer. Once mixture reaches syrup consistency, add rooster stock, return to boil, and reduce to 2 cups. Remove from heat and strain through chinois into ice bath.
Prepare an indirect cold smoker. Start fire with lump coal and applewood chips. Once flames subside and coal smolders and begins to smoke, add hay. Allow hay to smoke and continue stirring to prevent hay from catching fire. After hay is properly smoking, place reserved rooster breast and leg meat in the ingredient chamber. Cold smoke 20 minutes, with a chamber temperature between 160°°F to 170°F. Place the breast and leg on a cake rack to cool and allow the smoke flavor to permeate meat. Once cool, place in separate vacuum bags with 2 tablespoons brown butter and 1 fresh bay leaf. Vacuum on 30psi. Cook breast in circulator at 147.5° for 40 minutes. Move to ice bath and chill. Cook leg in circulator at 175.5° for 120 minutes. Move to ice bath and chill.
For the Potato-Onion Soubise:
Place potatoes in a saucepan with 1½ cups beurre monté, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf. Cook at 185°F, stirring to ensure beurre monté doesn’t break. Cook until potatoes are tender. Transfer to blender and purée. Season with salt and white pepper. Pass through a chinois and scale.
Place onions in a saucepan with ½ cup beurre monté, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf. Cook at 185°F until tender. Transfer to blender and purée. Season with salt and white pepper. Pass through a chinois and scale.
Combine potato and onion purées in blender and purée. Sheer 2 percent xanthan gum by weight, adjust seasoning with salt, white pepper, and Champagne vinegar. Reserve.
For the Celeriac:
Peel celeriac and, with a Parisienne, scoop out spheres. Place in vacuum bag with brown butter, tarragon, and bay leaf. Vacuum at 30psi. Cook in water bath at 185°F for 45 minutes. Remove and place in an ice bath. Once cool, remove from bag, pare away solidified brown butter, and reserve.
For the Cattails:
Trim cattail to just the white section. In a small bowl, mix marinade in the following ratio: 30 percent Champagne vinegar, 60 percent Olive Oil, 10 percent Vermentino. Pour over vegetables and marinate 2 hours. Prepare water bath to 158.5°F. Remove from marinate, place in vacuum with ½ cup vegetable stock, and 1 bay leaf. Vacuum at 20psi. Cook in water bath for 45 minutes. Transfer to an ice bath, cool, and reserve in bag.
To Assemble and Serve:
Toss caperberries with extra virgin olive oil, season with salt, white pepper, and Champagne vinegar. Heat water bath of immersion circulator 145°F. Warm vacuum bags with Smoked Rooster breast and leg meat and Cattails. Remove Smoked Rooster meat from bag and empty into a sauté pan. Add 3 tablespoons Rooster Glaze. Heat on medium high and begin basting the leg meat as glaze reduces. When glaze reduces to thick syrup, add 2 tablespoons butter and continue basting until glossy. Remove leg meat to a small cake rack to drain excess liquid. Reserve any liquid still in pan. Warm Potato-Onion Soubise. Heat fryer oil to 360°F and fry the Celeriac Parisiennes until golden. Remove to a rack and season immediately with salt and white pepper.
Spoon Potato-Onion Soubise in a circle. Remove Cattail from bag and slice on a 45° bias, about ½-inch thick, season with salt and white pepper, place two slices at different places around the Potato-Onion Soubise. Slice the Smoked Rooster leg meat into ½-inch slices, stack 2 together and place off center on plate. Remove Smoked Rooster breast meat from bag, slice into ¼-inch pieces, stack 2 slices together plate. Spoon remaining pan Rooster Glaze around the plate. Plate 3 Celeriac Parisiennes. Garnish leg meat with caperberries, celery leaves, and radish sprouts.