Brisket Makes Butter Better

By D. J. Costantino | Caroline Hatchett

By

D. J. Costantino
Caroline Hatchett
Pastrami Beef Rib, Sauerkraut, Dijon Mustard, and Texas Toast with Barbecue Butter
Pastrami Beef Rib, Sauerkraut, Dijon Mustard, and Texas Toast with Barbecue Butter

Smoked, spoon-tender fatty brisket: it’s a bit like meat butter. At the Granary Cue & Brew in San Antonio, Chef Tim Rattray packs brisket flavor into actual butter with pan drippings from the smoker. “It’s everything liquid smoke wishes it could be,” says Rattray. After collecting and allowing the drippings to cool, he separates the tallow and pan juices. Whipping one part of the latter to two parts European-style butter, Rattray creates a compound butter and seasons it with herb ash. Although you could slather it on your face solo, Rattray serves it (in slightly more civilized manner) in quenelle form alongside house buttermilk Pullman bread, sliced Texas-toast thick and griddled in the smoked tallow until golden brown.

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