How to Run a Pastry Program like The Bazaar by José Andrés

By Jessica Yoon

By

Jessica Yoon
Pastry Chef Kriss Harvey's Chocolate Cake of Your Dreams
Pastry Chef Kriss Harvey's Chocolate Cake of Your Dreams

Pastry Chef Kriss Harvey's signature dessert at The Bazaar by José Andrés in L.A.—The Chocolate Cake of Your Dreams—lives up to its lofty name. From surface to core, each layer melds together, leaving the diner with a head-in-the-sky high. But “it's not just about the guest's experience. How we do things and the ingredients we use matter,” said Harvey.

At ICC 2015, Harvey indulged attendees with a few technical tips on how to achieve light-as-a-feather mousse, as well as how to ensure quality and efficiency in your pastry program. (Fun Fact: There are 71 impeccably executed items on Harvey's menu. He knows what he's talking about.)

  • Use cream that has a 35 percent fat content. Anything higher is too heavy.
  • When creating a ganache insert, make sure it's fully emulsified and has the same texture as the surrounding mousse. You don't want to cut into the cake and encounter a brick.
  • For a moelleux, use bread flour, preferably imported from France. It allows you to make a loose and light batter that can still hold together.
  • Unmold mousse when it is -40°F to -30°F. If using liquid nitrogen, quickly dip, then warm up in the fridge.
  • If making multiple recipes that require gelatin, have a large batch soaked and ready to use. Gelatin only absorbs about 4 times it weight in water. Calculate the exact amount you need and use directly (example: 100 grams gelatin + 400 grams water; if you need 10 grams of gelatin, take 50 grams from the pile).

 

 

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