Most chefs are no stranger to the titular “odd bits” in Bones and Fat author Jennifer McLagan’s latest book. Between Fergus Henderson’s definitive Whole Beast meat manifesto, an increasingly pervasive culture of sustainability, and Anthony Bourdain’s Travel Channel offal-worship, the “chefs and off-cuts” love story is well told. But McLagan isn’t looking to introduce odd bits, she’s looking to reintroduce them, to point not only chefs but also their dining public to the rich, lengthy history of discarded meat products in our global culinary heritage. Given the potentially horrifying subject matter at hand (“I’m not trying to shock, although I am sure I will.”) McLagan begins with a primer on “odd bits,” which she has wisely swapped in for terms like “off cuts” and “offal,” both for technical accuracy—she’s dealing with everything from lamb’s neck and testicles to the sexier sweetbreads and their ilk—and to capture a sense of their culinary taboo. The rest of the book is divided as an animal would be, “the head, the front, the middle, and the back end.” Amusing history lessons and dedicated primers on some of the more challenging odd bits accompany recipes of varying exoticism like “Headcheese for the Unconvinced,” “Minted Tripe and Pea Salad,” and “Chocolate Blood Ice Cream.”















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