Many inventive chefs and mixos emerged from the billowing plumes of this trend to grab our attention in 2013. Smoke has seeped into every nook and cranny of the industry from pastry kitchens to cocktail bars, and savory chefs are finding ways to incorporate smoke flavor in unexpected ways and places. Chef Evan Hennessey was visiting the farm of one of his purveyors when the farmer mentioned he had a few roosters he no longer had a use for. Hennessey scooped up the roosters, along with some hay from their coop, and brought them back to his Dover, New Hampshire, restaurant Stages at One Washington, where his pastoral inspiration was realized in his hay-smoked rooster dish. We savored smoked romesco with quail and crawfish with Chef Dennis Bernard and smoked grit cakes from Chef Kathleen Blake at Orlando’s Rusty Spoon—even smoked cashew nettle ricotta at Gather in Berkeley from Chef Sean Baker.