THE SIXTH SENSE: Encapsulating Emotion
Many of last year’s major culinary trends were responses to the big bad economic wolf. It was a year of comfort food; DIY; mobile restaurant concepts (how better to flee angry investors?); tech-savvy, in-house PR; and marquee star mixology programs—the profit margin lifesaver of struggling operations. And we’ve seen growth within those trends. Social media outlets continue to diversify communication between chef, purveyor, and diner; the Asian concept restaurants of 2009 are evolving, with hopeful franchises like Sensebowl and concept-driven spots like Bill Kim’s communal urbanbelly; and house-made, hands-on, bare-knuckle prep (e.g., 2009’s ubiquitous canning and pickling) has transitioned from the professional kitchen to consumer shelves, courtesy of gourmet retail.
Strong as those veins of ingenuity are, this year in food was not a reaction to the recession. The culinary trends of 2010 illustrate what the industry learned about itself through the lens of necessity—from ingredients and service to the fundamentals and fantastical. We’ve seen locavore and DIY values progress toward high-concept naturalism, with a strong emphasis on terroir. We’ve watched as comfort food, culinary darling of the recession, morphed into a more distinctive, ambitious expression of soul and local character. We’ve seen mixologists marry doggedly authentic cocktail puritanism with sleek, next generation technologies, shedding the skins (and costumes) of hospitality-historicism for a more idiosyncratic bar menu. And we’ve witnessed the sphere of industry influence expand, from the cuisine on the plate to the welfare of a school, an environment, and even a nation.
2010 was a year of rededicated focus and renewed freedoms. And it wasn’t because of any magically resuscitated financial health. It was because the industry learned to trust itself, its strengths, and its special influence in the (ever-so-slightly tattered) fabric of modern culture. Here’s a recap of the outstanding culinary trends of 2010.
Click here to view a printable version ot the 2010 Culinary Trends Report.
Sometimes the Sixth Sense runs in the family. After Pastry Chef and pioneer of scented desserts brother Jordi wowed the crowd of Seoul Gourmet with his Aroma-Therapy presentation, Joan Roca, the savory third of the fraternal trio behind El Celler de Can Roca (Spain), demoed a multi-sensory creation at Gastronomika. The dessert, brainchild of absent brother Jordi, incorporated visual and auditory elements to conjure the heart-swelling team pride that erupts when Barcelona soccer hero Lionel Messi scores a goal. The composition was a half-soccer ball enclosing a field with a “goal,” in which diners could dunk chocolate or meringues, which Jordi incorporated “para joder”—to mess—with Madrid rival, nicknamed “the Meringues.” Even with all this, the most unusual component was the transistor radio next to the dish, playing the increasingly urgent yelps of the announcer as Messi drove a “gooooooaaaaal” home. Pride aside, Roca’s own goal wasn’t sports-founded; he meant to encapsulate an emotion or state of being in one cohesive creation. (It just happened to celebrate his team.)