Culinary Trends: Bringing it In-House (3)
Similarly pickling and canning are experiencing a renaissance. Following early adapters like Tory Miller of L’Etoile in Wisconsin, chefs are using these age-old preserving methods to capture fleeting seasonal products (sometimes what they grow themselves), and also to alter texture and flavor profiles. Chef Sylvain Delpique of David Burke Townhouse (NYC) pickled tiny honshimeji mushrooms and served them with a hamachi sashimi with compressed watermelon cubes—a tart counterpoint to the fatty fish and sweet melon. Fruits are also being picked for pickling, like in Pastry Chef Tom Laurell’s (Bin 36 and A Mano, Chicago) Bourbon whiskey waffles with pickled blueberries. Chef Renee Erickson of Boat Street Café (Seattle) pickles and cans prunes, figs, red onions, beets, fennel, and watermelon to name a few. And she takes it to the next level by selling her pickles to retail outlets in ten states across the US.