savory

by Caroline Hatchett with research by Emily Jacobs
John Sconzo and Antoinette Bruno
April 2013

Recipes

Beeswax Stats

Cost:
$10 to $15 per pound

Yield:
1 pound of beeswax = 1 pint, melted

Key Temperatures:
Melting point = 61°C
Loss of aroma > 90°C

Storage:
Wrap in plastic wrap and store in a cool place. Beeswax does not spoil but overtime gets a bloom, which can easily be removed by a little heat and rubbing.

by Nicholas Rummell
Antoinette Bruno
December 2012

Biography

Recipe

Snail Caviar Facts

How much:
Tins of escargot caviar typically start at about $100 an ounce, but if you buy in "bulk"—as in about 1,000 ounces—it can go for as little as $60 an ounce.

Where to buy:
It's pretty much a guarantee that no supermarket, no matter how kitsch or hipster, carries this stuff. Your better bet is to try various online purveyors, such as Beverly Hills Caviar.

Storage:
Sealed tins of caviar can be stored, refrigerated, for a few months. It's better if you don't freeze the caviar, but if you do you should keep it at -10°C. To defrost, gradually bring the caviar up to 10°C over five days. "Snails freeze and then defrost when they hibernate. It's the same thing with their eggs," says Kelly Stern, owner of Beverly Hills Caviar, one of the few purveyors that sells the product in the United States. But make sure they are kept at that temperature. "They can go bad within hours. The eggs turn from white to purple within a couple days," she says. While pink is acceptable for snail eggs (white is ideal) purple indicates they have gone bad.

Serving:
Serve them cool.

If you think gathering sturgeon caviar is hard, consider this: scientists say that when snails make love, it can take anywhere from

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by Nicholas Rummell
Will Blunt
September 2012

Recipe

Cloudberry Facts:

Foraging:
Since cloudberries are extremely difficult (some say impossible) to cultivate, foraging is really the only option, but even then, finding them is rare. Cloudberries grow almost exclusively in Artic swamps (they are uncommon except in a few areas in the United States), and are found typically around ferns and other plants.

Season:
Cloudberry plants are finicky. They can take up to seven years to produce fruit, and only one berry forms per stalk, if they produce fruit at all (some plants never get pollinated). The berries are typically ripe in late summer.

Learn More:
Dahlgren will present at this year's International Chefs Congress about Nordic ingredients and flavors.

Highland gold. Baked appleberry. Hjortron. Snåtterblomma. Or simply, whimsically, cloudberries.

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by Nicholas Rummell
Antoinette Bruno
August 2012

Biography

Recipe

Goosefoot Facts

Varieties:
Swiss chard (rainbow-colored stalks and hardy leaves); Bull's Blood beets (dark-red stripes and purple greens); Chioggia beets (striped beets with a sweet flavor and edible leaves); tyee spinach (sweet, buttery greens); red orach (rainbow colored leaves); quinoa (protein-rich with application similar to rice or couscous); and epazote (a Mexican mainstay, with a powerful flavor somewhat similar to cilantro)

Season:
Depends on the variety, but most are year-round

Purveyor:
Fresh Origins

Learn More:
Nugent will present at the International Chefs Congress on October 1, 2012, talking about the art of layering flavors and textures in a composed dish.

Chef Chris Nugent could have called his new, impressive Chicago restaurant Chenopodium.

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by Deanna Dong
Shannon Sturgis
July 2012

Recipe

Restaurant

Staff Meal Details

Chef de Cuisine Adrian Villarreal weighs in.

Staff meal food costs:

Ranges from $2 to $6 per person

Size of staff meal:

8 to 16 people

Time of staff meal:

4:30pm

Worst staff meal:

I think it was like beef-cheek meatloaf. It could have been good but it wasn’t made very well, and it was very dry.

Favorite staff meal ever:

Let’s go with chicken wings.

With the rising status of the culinary profession (how many times have you heard “chefs are the new rock stars” lately?), diners are increasingly curious about life in the kitchen.

by Katherine Sacks
Antoinette Bruno
July 2012

Recipe

  • Chef Hillary Sterling The Beatrice Inn - New York, NY

Tripe Stats

Cost: $3.40 per pound

Cooking: Rinse well and handle gently; cook with a lot of flavorful ingredients.

Storage: Store chilled in its cooking liquid for up to one week.

by Katherine Sacks
Shannon Sturgis
June 2012

Biography

Recipe

Restaurant

Sous Chef Richard Horiike weighs in.

Staff meal food costs:
We utilize all scraps and any samples we get in. If I had to break it down, it’s probably $150 a week.

Size of staff meal:
On Mondays and Wednesdays we have 30 to 60 people come, because it’s tip day. On Tuesday and Thursday it’s usually between 30 and 60. And on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s 15 to 20, because the front of the house comes in later.

Time of staff meal:
3:30pm

Worst staff meal:
Chicken back stew; it was green thai curry made with the carcasses and no meat. I pretty much never eat curry now.

Best staff meal ever:
Usually for the holidays, we always try to do something nice. For the past few Thanksgivings, I've been making porchetta, and that seems to be a pleaser.

With a primarily Asian staff and a pantry packed with Japanese ingredients, staff meals at New York City’s Morimoto tend to be the kind of comfort food meals that would make any

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