• 1 whole wild black sea bass, about 3 pounds (or any other fresh, firm-fleshed fish)
  • 4 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 Tablespoons green garlic, garlic scapes, or garlic chives, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 cup green onion tops, thinly sliced
  • 1 sprig each of fresh tarragon, thyme, basil, and rosemary
  • Sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • Juice of 2 lemons, plus extra wedges for serving
Build a hardwood fire in a charcoal grill. Allow flames to subside until a bed of glowing coals remains. Place a grill over the hardwood coals and heat. Rub the grill with a cloth moistened with olive oil.

Meanwhile, season the fish inside and out with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Lightly drizzle olive oil in the cavity of the fish and loosely stuff it with fresh herbs. Tie the fish with soft cotton twine to help retain its shape.

Generously drizzle the outside of the fish with olive oil and place it on the grill. Cover the grill, adjusting air supply and vent to permit moderate, even heat. Cook the fish on one side for about 8 minutes for a 3-pound fish. Carefully turn over the fish, cover the grill, and continue cooking over moderate heat for an additional 6 to 8 minutes.

Remove fish from grill and place on a serving platter. Discard the herbs and drizzle fish lightly with olive oil and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Serve whole, lifting off sections of fillet and dividing among dinner plates, accompanied by wedges of lemon and a pitcher of olive oil.

Wine Pairing:
A medium-bodied Albarino, like the Condes de Albarei 2002

Other fish species may be used for this recipe. On the New England coast, striped bass are abundant in the summer months, and roasting them whole over hardwood coals may be one of the simplest and best ways to enjoy them. Select a very fresh fish with a clean, oceanic aroma, firm flesh, and bright eyes and gills. Ask the fishmonger to dress and scale the fish, and to snip the fins close to the body.