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Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010
(212) 889-0905  

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Milk and Chocolate, Tastes and Textures
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  • Angela Pinkerton

    Rising Star Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton
    Eleven Madison Park | New York, NY

    Variations of Milk and Chocolate
    Adapted by
    Yield: 4 Servings


    Dehydrated Chocolate Mousse:
    40 grams 55 % Valrhona Equatoriale chocolate
    20 grams 80 % Valrhona Coeur de Guarana chocolate
    75 grams egg whites
    Pinch salt
    20 grams sugar
    20 grams egg yolks, room temperature

    Aerated Chocolate:
    125 grams 55 % Valrhona Equatoriale chocolate
    17 grams grapeseed oil

    Caramelized White Chocolate Sorbet:
    15 grams sugar
    25 grams malted milk powder
    171 grams Trimoline
    869 grams water
    7 grams sorbet stabilizer
    350 grams caramelized Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate, chopped
    2 teaspoons salt

    Dehydrated Milk Foam:
    250 grams whole milk
    50 grams glucose

    Frozen Chocolate Foam:
    67 grams sugar
    ¼ teaspoon salt
    9 grams milk powder
    159 grams milk
    159 grams water
    77 grams chopped 55 % Valrhona Equatoriale chocolate
    57 grams chopped 80 % Valrhona Coeur de Guarana chocolate
    2 sheets bloomed gold gelatin
    Liquid nitrogen

    Browned Milk Solids:
    20 grams milk powder
    75 grams unsalted butter

    Dulce de Leche:
    397 grams sweetened condensed milk

    To Assemble and Serve:
    Whipped crème fraîche
    Maldon salt

    For the Dehydrated Chocolate Mousse:
    Preheat the oven to 150° F to165°F. Melt the Equatoriale and Coeur de Guarana chocolates over a double boiler. In a clean metal or glass bowl, beat the egg whites and a pinch of salt with a whisk or mixer. Whip to a soft peak, then slowly add the sugar while beating, until the meringue holds medium stiff peaks. While the meringue is whipping, add the yolks to the melted chocolate. Gently fold the meringue into the chocolate mixture. Spread the mousse onto an inverted, acetate-lined sheet tray. Place the sheet tray in the oven overnight. When the mousse is completely dry, remove from the oven and break into tiny pieces. Keep away from moisture.

    For the Aerated Chocolate:
    Melt the Equatoriale chocolate and oil together, stirring until smooth and warm. Fill the canister and charge with NO2. Cool the mixture and dispense the foam onto an acetate-lined ¼ sheet pan. Freeze until set. Break into varying sized rocks.

    For the Caramelized White Chocolate Sorbet:
    Combine the sugar and malt powder. Heat Trimoline and water to just warm. Temper in the stabilizer, and sugar-malt mixture and heat to just under a boil. Pour the mixture over the chopped chocolate. Let melt for a minute and blend using a hand blender. Strain through a chinois. Add salt and chill over ice.

    For the Dehydrated Milk Foam:
    Preheat the oven to 150° F. Heat milk and glucose until just under a boil, turn off heat and froth with foamer. Scoop foam out onto acetate-lined sheet tray. Place the sheet tray in the oven to dry the foam. When dry, remove the sheet tray from the oven and break the dehydrated foam into pieces. Keep away from moisture.

    For the Frozen Chocolate Foam:
    Combine sugar, salt, and milk powder. Combine milk and water and heat until warm. Temper warm liquid into the combined dry ingredients. Bring the mixture to just under a boil and pour over the Equatoriale and Coeur de Guarana chocolate, then add gelatin and let the mixture rest to dissolve the gelatin. Emulsify the mixture with hand blender. Strain and chill the chocolate mixture. Fill a canister 2/3 of the way and load with NO2 chargers. Spray the foam into a half hotel pan that is lined with acetate. Pour the liquid nitrogen over the top to chill. Keep the hotel pan in the freezer.

    For the Browned Milk Solids:
    Heat the milk powder and butter together. Brown, stirring often to keep the caramelization even. Drain off the fat and reserve for another use. Drain the solids on a towel and refrigerate.

    Dulce de Leche:
    Cook the sweetened condensed milk over a water bath, stirring every so often until a dark caramel color is attained. Blend with a hand blender and pass through a tamis.

    To Assemble and Serve:
    Scoop the sorbet onto the plate, top with the browned milk solids, frozen foam, dehydrated foam and mousse and aerated chocolate. Garnish with the dulce de leche, whipped crème fraîche and Maldon salt.





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