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Jesse Mallgren

 

 

 


Chef Jesse Mallgren
Madrona Manor | Sonoma

Liberty Farms Duck: Roasted Breast and Crisped Confit, Caraway, Spring Onion, and Beet

Chef Jesse Mallgren of Madrona Manor – Healdsburg, CA
Adapted by StarChefs.com
May 2009

Yield: 6 Servings

INGREDIENTS

    Caraway Oil:
  • 2 tablespoons Caraway
  • ½ cup rice oil

    Liberty Farms Duck:
  • 3 Sonoma Poultry ducks
  • Kosher salt
  • Fleur de sel

    Duck Sauce:

  • 6 duck tenderloins
  • 1 tablespoon rice oil
  • 50 grams shallot, diced medium
  • 50 grams carrot, diced medium
  • 25 grams celery, diced medium
  • ½ long pepper
  • 30 grams golden balsamic vinegar
  • 4 liters duck stock
  • Xanthan gum

    “More Beet Than Beet” Puree:
  • 800 grams medium red beet, skin and 1-inch piece of stem attached
  • Water
  • 35 grams salt
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

    Gold Beet Cylinder:

  • 4 large gold beets
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • ¼ cup water

    Blood Orange Chutney:

  • 300 grams blood orange segments
  • 200 grams blood orange juice
  • 100 grams roasted Cippolini, very finely chopped
  • 15 grams Zinfandel vinegar
  • 15 grams clover honey
  • 1 pinch salt

    Onion Soubise “Gel”:

  • 500 grams spring onion, white part only and sliced thin
  • 500 grams yellow onion, sliced thin
  • 200 grams half & half
  • 6 grams salt
  • 400 grams milk
  • 2.6 grams HA gellan (.21%)
  • 1.9 grams LA gellan (.16%)
  • 1 gram corn maltodextrin (.8%)

    Corned Duck Tongue:
  • 2 liters water
  • 225 grams kosher salt
  • 50 grams sugar
  • 10 grams pink salt
  • 1 garlic clove, halved
  • 10 grams pickling spice
  • 1 pound duck tongue
  • 2 liters duck fat, rendered

    To Assemble and Serve:
  • Kosher salt
  • Fleur de sel
  • Vegetable stock
  • Butter
  • ½ teaspoon finely chopped spring onion top

METHOD

For the Caraway Oil:
Crush the caraway in a mortar and pestle and toast until fragrant. Combine the warm caraway with the rice oil, allowing to steep for 1 week at room temperature. Strain.

For the Liberty Farms Duck:
Butcher 3 Sonoma Poultry ducks and separate the breasts, legs, carcass, and fat. Use the legs for the confit, rendering the fat for the confit, as well. Roast the bones to make the duck stock; reserve the tenderloins and remove the silver skin from the duck breasts, setting it aside for the Duck Sauce. In a walk-in, air-dry the duck breasts on a rack for 3 hours, skin-side up. Score the duck skin in a crosshatch, 25 slices each way.

For the Duck Sauce:
In a heavy-bottomed pan, brown the duck tenderloins in the rice oil and add the shallots, carrots, celery, and long pepper; cook until the vegetables begin to caramelize. Deglaze with the balsamic vinegar, reducing to au sec, and cover the vegetables by ½ inch with the duck stock; reduce by half. Add the remaining stock and reduce by half again. Strain the sauce through a chinoise and allow to cool. Remove any fat from the top of the duck sauce and reduce by half. Weigh the sauce and add .1% Xanthan gum; blend and reserve in a warm place.

For the “More Beet Than Beet” Puree:
Place the beets in a pot and cover with 3 inches cold water; add salt and bring to a simmer. Remove the beets’ skin and stems, and puree until smooth. Drip the beet mixture in cheesecloth for 30 minutes. Place the strained beet mix in a bowl and slowly whisk in the extra virgin olive oil. Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly; set aside and keep warm.

For the Gold Beet Cylinder:
Rub the beets with the olive oil and salt; place them in a hotel pan with the water and remaining salt and oil. Cover the pan with foil and bake at 325ºF for 1 hour, or until tender. Before the beets cool, peel their skin off and cut into ¾-inch rounds. Punch out the beet cylinders with a ½-inch ring mold. Set aside.

For the Blood Orange Chutney:
Combine all of the ingredients and cook over medium heat until the mixture achieves the consistency of a jam. The chutney should be sweet and sour—if the flavor is not well-balanced, adjust it with vinegar or a small amount of sugar, depending upon your blood oranges.

For the Onion Soubise “Gel”:
Cook the onions, half & half and salt sous vide for 1 hour at 185°F. Combine the mixture in a blender and strain through a chinoise. Set aside 810 grams of the onion puree in a warm place.

Blend the milk, both gellans and the maltodextrin for 2 minutes with a hand blender. Heat the mixture until it becomes thick and thin again; quickly add it to the reserved onion mixture and immediately pour into a half hotel pan to cool. Cool the mixture in a walk-in for 1 hour; cut into squares and warm in a 375°F-oven for 3 minutes.

For the Corned Duck Tongue:
Combine the water, kosher salt, sugar, pink salt, garlic, and pickling spice, and bring to a simmer. Cool the brine completely and add the tongues, soaking them overnight. Strain the tongues from the brine, removing most of the pickling spices, and cook in the duck fat at 275°F for 3 hours. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the cartilage from the center of each tongue (extra tongues can be stored in the duck fat for up to 1 month). Fry the tongues in the duck fat at 375°F until crispy.

To Assemble and Serve:
Season the breast with kosher salt and cook skin-side down on low heat for 10 minutes, or until the skin begins to crisp. Do not let the meat-side touch the pan. Place the duck breast on a sizzle platter and cook skin-side up in a salamander for 2 minutes, or until medium. Allow the breast to rest for 3 minutes in a warm place. Supreme the duck breast and cut it into a ½-inch wide by 3-inch long piece. Set the breast on a C-fold towel for 20 seconds; sprinkle the meat with fleur de sel. Place the breast on a plate with the skin facing the lower half. While the breast rests, cook the confit skin-side down in a hot non-stick pan for 1 minute. Place the confit in a 375°F-oven and cook for 2 minutes.

Warm a roasted Gold Beet Cylinder in vegetable stock until warm; glaze with a knob of butter.

Warm the Onion Soubise at 375°F for 3 minutes.

On a square white plate, place 1 tablespoon red beet puree in the upper center of the plate. Place the duck confit on top of the puree and, in the lower left-hand corner, place the Gold Beet Cylinder topped with ½ teaspoon Blood Orange Chutney. Plate the Corned Duck Tongue on top of the chutney. Mix ½ teaspoon finely chopped spring onion top with 2 drops Caraway Oil, and place atop the tongue. At tableside, pour ½ ounce sauce over the breast.

 

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  •    Published: May 2009


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