
Hichem Lahreche
Kinkead’s | Washington DC
Pastry Chef Hichem Lahreche was born in the North African
capital Algiers but it was his French mother’s natural and
precise cooking style that inspired an early love for pastries and
cooking. Professionally, he went on to study physics and excel at
professional tennis acquiring an appetite for knowledge and commitment
to the scientific method that would later translate to his flavor
philosophy. In 1993 Lahreche dropped everything for pastry and began
working his way through top kitchens in DC beginning with Michel
Richard of Citronelle. An eternal student, Lahreche continued
his education with classes in confectionary, the technology of ice-cream
and sorbet making and master chocolate making. As Executive Pastry
Chef of Kinkead’s, Lahreche applies modern scientific
techniques to recreate and personalize the classic French pastries
that inspired him in Paris at Le Notre and Fauchon.
In dishes like his Pineapple Tatin and Lemon Chibouste, Lahreche
builds a dessert inspired by classic French desserts like the Tarte
Tatin; an ultra-thin layer of crisp pastry and caramelized pineapple
are complimented by a creamy, tart lemon chibouste.
Pineapple Tatin with Lemon
Chibouste
Pastry Hichem Lahreche of Kinkead’s – Washington,
D.C.
Adapted by StarChefs.com
Yield: 6 Portions
Ingredients:
Lemon Chibouste:
- 250 grams lemon juice
- 170 grams heavy cream, 40% fat
- 65 grams egg yolks
- 30 grams corn starch
- 12 grams gelatin sheets, bloomed in cold water
- 270 grams egg whites
- 65 grams granulated sugar
- 65 grams glucose syrup
Caramelized Pineapple:
- 750 grams fresh pineapple, diced
- 2 vanilla beans, split and scraped
- 150 grams granulated sugar
Banana Caramel Sauce:
- 400 grams banana purée
- Juice of 2 lemons
- 1 vanilla bean
- 1 gram sea salt
- 200 grams whole milk
- 500 grams heavy cream
- 750 grams granulated sugar
- 200 grams water
- 60 grams dark rum
Coconut Ice Cream:
- 480 grams whole milk
- 100 grams heavy cream
- 45 grams milk powder
- 30 grams trimoline
- 20 grams glucose powder
- 100 grams saccharose
- 2 grams ice cream stabilizer
- 2 grams monostearate glycerol
- 200 grams coconut purée
Additional:
- 6 disks cooked puff pastry
- 6 pineapple crisps
Method:
For the Lemon Chibouste:
Bring the lemon juice and heavy cream to a boil. Whisk together
the egg yolks and corn starch. Temper in the egg yolk and corn starch
mixture, and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Add the gelatin
and continue whisking until combined. Set aside and allow to cool.
Whip the egg whites, sugar and glucose syrup into a meringue. Once
cool, fold in the lemon mixture and spread immediately onto a sheet
pan lined with a Silpat. Chill in the freezer once set.
For the Caramelized Pineapple:
Mix the pineapple and vanilla and allow to macerate for 20 minutes.
Using a hot pan, make a dry caramel and add the pineapple. Cook
until the water has evaporated, stirring occasionally.
For the Banana Caramel Sauce:
Mix the banana purée and lemon juice and set aside. Bring
the vanilla bean, salt, milk and cream to a boil and strain. Heat
the sugar and water to make a dark caramel and deglaze with the
rum, then add the vanilla cream. Add the banana purée to
the cream, whisk to combine, and gradually chill.
For the Coconut Ice Cream:
Warm the milk and cream. Add the milk powder and trimoline, whisking
well. Next add the glucose powder, saccharose, ice cream stabilizer
and the monostearate. Bring to a boil. Rapidly cool the mix over
ice to 3ºC and allow to mature for 24 hours in the refrigerator.
The following day, mix in the coconut purée and churn in
the ice cream machine. Reserve in freezer until ready to use.
To Assemble and Serve:
Place a ring over the puff pastry disk and fill will Caramelized
Pineapple. Remove ring and gently place a disk of Lemon Chibouste
on top. Top with a quenelle of Coconut Ice Cream and a pineapple
crisp.
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