Tom Wellings
Maestro | Washington
DC
Biography
Tom Wellings grew up in Chicago living a Bohemian lifestyle
of painting and working in cafes before realizing that his calling
was in the back of house. After a degree in Culinary Arts from the
New England Culinary Institute, Wellings went on to stage with Rob
Evans of Hugo’s in Portland, Maine. Inspired by the
pastry side of the culinary world, Wellings decided to move to New
York City to attend The French Culinary Institute. Under the Dean
of Pastry, Jacques Torres, Wellings studied the fine arts of pastry,
sugar and chocolate. During his first three months in the program,
Wellings staged with Pastry Chef Patrick Coston, formerly of ILO,
at the Bryant Park Hotel. Taking notice of Wellings taste for the
avant-garde, Chef Coston helped him earn a four-month stage under
Sam Mason at wd-50. It was under Mason that the doors of
creativity were swung open and Wellings’ signature creative
style began to take shape.
In his next venture Wellings moved to Virginia where he took to
mastering the more traditional pastry craft at The Ritz-Carlton,
Tysons Corner, while studying progressive cooking in books. Two
years into his work with Ritz-Carlton, Wellings was offered the
position of Head Pastry Chef at Restaurant Eve in Alexandria,
but was quickly lured back to the Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner by
the opportunity to take the Pastry Chef position under Fabio Trabocchi
at Maestro. Wellings continues to mold his distinctive
style with dishes like his Tiramisu. The dish is a study in the
classic Italian dessert with added textural impact and intensified
flavors. The mascarpone normally folded into a cream is frozen into
a smooth sorbet while the coffee flavor imparted to the ladyfingers
is made into a sweet and salty crumble and concentrated syrup. A
crisp cocoa tuile and concentrated amaretto jelly complete the flavor
profile of a tiramisu.
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Interview
Cont'd
AB: What is your philosophy
on pastry?
TW: I like things clean and
creative but also approachable. Seasonality is very important to
me as are local farmers.
AB: What restaurants
that you have worked in as a pastry chef have been the most influential?
TW: I decided I wanted to be
a pastry chef at Hugo’s in Portland, Maine. I did
garde mange and pastry there but I preferred the exactness of pastry.
I thought I could be more creative in that environment. Sam Mason
taught me to think outside of the box.
AB: What was
your baking and pastry training? Did you attend culinary school?
TW: I received a pastry degree
from the French Culinary Institute in 2004. Then I interned at
Ilo with Patrick Coston and spent three months with Sam Mason
at wd-50.
AB: What are
the most important restaurants where you staged, apprenticed, or
externed?
TW: wd-50
AB: What pastry
of kitchen tools can’t you live without? Why?
TW: I love my immersion blender
for pureeing small quantities and frothing up liquids. My offset
spatula is indispensable for picking things up and smoothing them
over – I’ve gone through lots of them.
AB: What are
you favorite ingredients?
TW: I like spices, especially
star anise, and any sensual fruit.
AB: What are
you top three tips for dessert success?
TW: Think before you react,
be precise and take the time.
AB: Who are
your mentors/pastry heroes?
TW: Pierre Hermé’s
technique is off the charts.
AB: What are
the most notable restaurants you have worked at?
TW: Restaurant Eve
and Hugo’s.
AB: What is
your favorite question to ask during an interview for a potential
new line cook?
TW: What cookbooks are you
reading? What chefs do you admire? The answers give me insight regarding
how they think and what their aspirations are.
AB: What are
you favorite cookbooks?
TW: The first
El Bulli,
1998-2002
AB: What are your favorite
restaurants –off the beaten path—in your city? What
is your favorite dish there?
TW: Rabieng has amazing
Thai curry bison.
AB: What cuisine
are you best known for?
TW: Modern American with experimentation
but isn’t that where Modern American is going?
AB: Tell us
an interesting or unknown fact about your kitchen and/or career?
TW: I’ve lived in fifteen
places around the US.
AB: What are
your favorite desserts?
TW: Ice cream, fruit sorbets,
warm spice cake and panna cotta.
AB: What trends
do you see emerging in pastry arts?
TW: I see more openness between
chefs, purveyors and scientists. I also see more emphasis on minimalism
and simplicity.
AB: Where
do you see yourself in 5 years? 10 years?
TW: Owning my own place like
a little gourmet shop with high-end produce, pastries and olive
oils.
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