CLIO | Boston
Stacking up to the creative genius of Chef Ken Oringer is a serious
challenge, one that pastry chef Rick Billings has pulled off with
aplomb at Clio. A mere 25 years old, Billings had the good
fortune to work with two of Boston’s top pastry chefs –
Kristen Murray at No. 9 Park, and Alex Stupak, his predecessor
at Clio. If Murray gave Billings a sense that anything
is fair game as far as ingredients in desserts go, Stupak demonstrated
that there’s no limit when it comes to creating ethereal textures
that venture way beyond foams. Ironically when Billings studied
at New England Culinary Institute (NECI), he was more interested
in savory than pastry cooking, turned off by the refrigerated cases
of desserts that boasted maximum shelf-life but minimum flavor and
vitality. “I like that plated desserts have a short life.
Ice creams melt, foams fall, herbs wilt – there’s much
more life to that!” And at such a young age, there’s
surely much more life – and success – to this talented
Frozen Blood Orange and Amaretto Capsule
with Bitter Almond Cream and Coffee Streusel
Pastry Chef Rick Billings of Clio – Boston, MA
Adapted by StarChefs.com
Yield: 6 Servings
Blood Orange Gel:
- 500 grams blood orange juice
- 50-100 grams sugar (depending on ripeness of the oranges)
- 6 grams agar agar
- 3 grams gelatin, bloomed
- 500 grams cream
- 4 vanilla beans, split and scraped
- 10 grams dextrose
- 500 grams sugar
- 5 grams glucose
- 400 grams amaretto
- 400 grams butter
- 200 grams almond flour
- 400 grams cake flour
- 10 grams coffee powder
- 20 grams coffee liquor
- 10 grams salt
- 4 grams modified food starch
- 400 grams granulated sugar
- 200 grams demerara sugar
Bitter Almond Ice Cream:
- 2 kilograms whole milk
- 650 grams marcona almonds, raw
- 300 grams demerara sugar
- 80 grams milk powder
- 8 grams dextrose
- 10 grams glucose
- 6 grams gelatin
- 10 grams stabilizer
- Bitter almond essence (amount varies on almond quality and
For Blood Orange Gel:
Bring the juice to a boil with the sugar and agar agar in a medium
sized pot. Add the bloomed gelatin off the heat, and place mixture
over an ice bath until completely cooled. Blend until a perfectly
smooth gel is achieved.
For Amaretto Caramel:
In a medium-sized pot, bring the cream to a boil with the vanilla
beans; add the dextrose off the heat. In a separate pot, cook the
sugar and glucose until medium caramel. Slowly pour the cream into
the caramel while whisking, until fully dissolved and homogenous.
Allow mixture to cool to room temperature, and then add the amaretto.
Place in the freezer.
For Coffee Streusel:
Combine all ingredients except the demerara suar in an electric
stand mixture until fully mixed. Flatten out mixture on a Silpat
and bake at 300°F until fully cooked and dried, about 30 minutes.
Allow to cool and grind in a Robocoup with the demerara sugar.
For Bitter Almond Ice Cream:
Bring the milk to a boil in a large sauce pot. Add the marcona almonds
and use a hand blender to mix up until the almonds are in very small
pieces but not completely blended. Allow mixture to sit overnight.
Cook the almond milk with the demerara sugar, milk powder, dextrose
and glucose to 80° C, then add the bloomed gelatin and stabilizer.
Strain the mixture through a chinois, pressing hard to extract all
the liquid from the almonds. Add the bitter almond essence to taste.
Freeze mixture in Pacojet containers.
To Assemble Capsules:
Cut 6 pieces of acetate into 2-inch by 5-inch rectangular strips.
Cut 12 squares of acetate measuring 2 inches by 2 inches.
Spread some of the Blood Orange Gel on 6 of the 12 squares. Then
spread an even layer of the gel on all the strips. Form the strips
into tubes by bringing the shorter ends together and secure. Place
each tube on one of the square bases covered with gel and freeze.
Once frozen, fill tubes with the Amaretto Caramel. Spread some more
of the gel on the other squares and place on top. Freeze capsules
Spoon some of the streusel onto the serving plate. Unmold a capsule
and place on the side of the streusel. Spread some of the gel on
the plate and sprinkle some coffee extract to the side. Run 6 portions
of the ice cream in the Pacojet and place a quenelle next to each
capsule. Place some micro anise hyssop around the gel and capsule.
Lustau East India Solera Sherry