
Tony Maws
CRAIGIE STREET BISTROT | Boston
Looking back on his youth in Belmont, MA, Tony Maws describes
himself as “a skinny little kid with parents who didn’t
cook.” He credits Hannah, his Jewish grandmother from Tennessee,
for instilling in him a love and appreciation of good food. After
graduating from the University of Michigan, Maws wrote letters to
chefs around the country, and Chris Schlesinger of East Coast
Grill answered. After two year working under Schlesinger, Maws’
roster of renowned mentors expanded to include Chefs Mark Miller
of Coyote Café, Ken Oringer of Clio, Bernard
Constantin of Larivoire, and Roland Passot of La Folie.
While Tony was living and cooking abroad in Lyon, France, he got
hooked on the bistrots modernes – and their new style
of cuisine made with simple, fresh ingredients. The idea that the
food was creative but never pretentious resonated with Tony, along
with the fact that the restaurant style was relaxed and comfortable,
not intimidating. With this concept as his inspiration, Maws returned
home to Cambridge and opened Craigie Street Bistrot – his
own version of a French bistrot moderne in Cambridge – Boston’s
answer to Paris’ Left Bank.
Eggs en Cocotte with Crab and Rock Shrimp
Chef Tony Maws of Craigie Street Bistrot - Cambridge, MA
Adapted by StarChefs.com
Yield: 4 Servings
Ingredients:
- 4 (6-ounce) ramekins
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 8 eggs
- 1 pound green garlic tops
- ¼ cup sake
- ¼ pound Honshimeji mushrooms
- Butter
- 1 teaspoon white miso
- ¼ pound crabmeat
- 1/8 pound fresh rock shrimp
- Beurre monté*
- ¼ teaspoon lemon juice
- 2 Tablespoons chopped Fines Herbes, such as parsley, chives,
tarragon, or chervil
- Piment d’Esplette (or spicy Hungarian paprika)
- 4 slices toast
* To make a beurre monté, bring 1 Tablespoon
of water to a boil in a saucepan. Bring the heat down to moderate
and whisk in chunks of cold butter, 1 or 2 at a time. Once the
butter has started to emulsify, more butter may be whisked in
faster. Hold the beurre monté between 160°F and 190°F
for poaching, being careful not to boil or it will break.
Method:
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Butter 4 (6-ounce) ramekins and season them with salt and pepper.
Crack 2 eggs into each ramekin and place in a water bath. Set aside.
Blanch green garlic tops in well-salted boiling water. When the
garlic tops are tender, shock them immediately in ice water. Puree
them in a blender with water and the sake until smooth. Pass through
a chinois. Set aside.
Sauté the mushrooms in butter, and season with salt and
pepper to taste. Add the miso, crab, shrimp and beurre monté.
Cook over low heat until the shrimp and crab are fully cooked. Add
the lemon juice and fines herbes; season to taste with salt and
pepper and Piment d’Esplette. Set aside.
Cook the eggs over medium heat for 15-18 minutes, or until just
set.
To Assemble and Serve:
Re-heat the green garlic sauce. Spoon some over each ramekin with
eggs. Place seafood and mushroom sauté over the top. Serve
with toast.
Wine Pairing:
Saint-Peyre Picpoul de Pinet 2005
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